Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1

    new to me 94 sl 750

    thanks for the add guys. i just picked up a new to me 94 sl 750 it appears to be all original i have ordered oil injection delete, new triple pump, and carb rebuild kit. when inspecting i found water in cylinders. and when i removed heads cylinders and pistons looked healthy. compression was low on one cylinder wich is pto side. cylinder read as such 120,120,90. when cranking to get water out i noticed that drive shaft has a little hop should i worry about this? i know i have to index crankshaft to ensure its straight wich i will be doing later today. if i just put rings in the one piston will i be good?

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,187
    +1
    1,844
    Welcome.

    Click here
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    Water in the cylinders means water in the engine crankcase. Water in the crankcase means rust likely in the crank bearings. Rusty bearings means the engine will not survive at high RPM on the water, not for long. Hours, minutes, maybe just seconds.

    Really hard to properly inspect the crank bearings without taking the engine apart.

    Sounds like you need to go through this machine from end to end. Inspect everything, do the recommended maintenance.

    Oil pump delete is not necessary, just maintain the oil lines and inspect the clamps. New OEM oil filter. Saves oil cost, reduces exhaust smoke. Quite reliable overall.

    Take the jet pump out and inspect the bearings and seals. Or just rebuild it anyways, not expensive or hard to do.

  3. #3
    thanks for the help. water in engine was not rusty brown at all. it appears to me that the old owner might have started water prior to machine being on and filled it. i have not had any water coming out of crank pulse line but will inspect crank when carbs are pulled. if crank indexes right and no rusty water down near bearing am i good just to do maintenance and rings in piston with low compression?


  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,187
    +1
    1,844
    Quote Originally Posted by menkrs30 View Post
    ... water in engine was not rusty brown at all.

    it appears to me that the old owner might have started water prior to machine being on and filled it. ...
    How long do you suspect there was water sitting in the engine?

    Even surface rust on the crank bearings can be the beginning of the end for them. Sometimes the oily film in the crankcase is enough to keep the water away from the steel surfaces ... sometimes. For a little while.

    Rusty looking water would take a long time to develop, long after the smooth steel surfaces in there had begun rusting.

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,503
    +1
    46
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    If you're going to re-ring the Pto piston anyway, pull the cylinder and have a look at the crank. If it's all rusted up, you know you need to replace it. If it's good, I would remove the carbs, intake manifold, and reeds. You can then get a slight peek at the Cen and Mag sections of the crank shaft. This is a cheap way to inspect your crank for rust, along with checking the condition of the reeds. It will make it much easier to remove the oil pump should you decide to delete that.

    An additional way to check for crank bearing problems along with the visual inspection is to remove the drive shaft and spark plugs. Then turn the crank over by hand. It should spin smoothly. Any gritty feeling and they're toast.

    Yes, you can just re-ring the PTO piston. Ideally a quick honing would be best, and you would need to treat the new rings to a "break in" period. But, that will be fine.

    A word of caution though: The PTO cylinder drives the fuel pump. So low compression on that cylinder will negatively effect your fuel pressure. Which generally is the usual cause of failure in a Fuji (blue) engine.

  6. #6
    thank you guys. little bit of water i got out from crank was mixed with oil. so im hoping i can get away with it. did a quick index job and crank seem to check out fine. going deeper in my inspection i noticed that the piston on pto has a crack. with how far torn down i have it i am just gonna do a full top end rebuild and carb rebuild, replace all fuel lines and im still debating on oil delete. is it really necessary?

  7. #7
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Georgia - Lake Lanier - near 6TH
    Posts
    947
    +1
    22
    I like the Polaris oil system, just be sure your hoses for that are good.

    Is the engine out of the ski? If so I recommend a full tear down to check the crank for issues, but it's your time/nickel/risk.

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,503
    +1
    46
    Oil pump delete is not necessary. Polaris made a decent oil system.

    I however, run premix. (40:1)

    As mentioned above. If you keep the oil system in place, make sure the oil lines, hose clamps, and oil filter are all in good shape and you should be fine.

    Be sure to check the oil pump linkage and indexing marks for proper operation after you re-install the carbs after the rebuild.

  9. #9
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Georgia - Lake Lanier - near 6TH
    Posts
    947
    +1
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    indexing marks for proper operation after you re-install the carbs after the rebuild.
    What are you referring to here, mate?


    manual says:
    "NOTE: 1995 and later models are equipped with a variableoil pump controlled by a link rod between the carburetors
    and the pump arm. This is a non-adjustable rod.
    It is necessary to inspect the rod and linkage for correct
    installation and smooth operation before running the
    engine. Pre-1995 models are not adjustable."
    Last edited by stimpsonjcat; 05-30-2019 at 02:46 PM.

  10. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newman Lake, WA
    Posts
    2,499
    +1
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Be sure to check the oil pump linkage and indexing marks for proper operation after you re-install the carbs after the rebuild.
    '94 carbs don't have linkage to the oil pump. '95+ carbs have the linkage to vary the oil pump delivery ratio

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 750 SX/SXi Limited Pipe and 750 ZXI?
    By conkerbfd in forum Kawasaki Projects
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-11-2016, 09:52 PM
  2. SOLD 1995-97 750 or 780 stator and maybe 94-95 750 flywheel
    By SeaBee63 in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-28-2014, 06:07 PM
  3. 93 polaris 750 SL engine swap to 95 750 SLT
    By g_magic_tsp in forum Polaris Projects
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-05-2011, 09:38 PM
  4. Polaris Jet Ski SLT 750 with a Kawasaki 750 engine in CA
    By 800AMSOIL4U in forum Polaris Skis
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-02-2009, 10:28 PM
  5. 750 mariner dual intake manifold 750/800
    By the WaTeRhAwK in forum Kawasaki Classifieds
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-06-2008, 03:21 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •