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  1. #11

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    I regret the way I did it.

    Yes, it does say to not cut the transducer cable. I did a lot of readin, and it sounds like people splice them all the time. I haven't had it in the water yet. Unfortunately, the transducer costs a ton to replace.

    I'm not sure what my plan is. It might be fine as-is.

    I was paranoid about drilling a bigger hole, in hindsight that was stupid.

  2. #12

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    BTW, I can't even reach the inside of the transom. How would you use that nut you mentioned? There is a ton of stuff in the way (exhaust, electrical, etc.).


  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by ytechie View Post
    BTW, I can't even reach the inside of the transom. How would you use that nut you mentioned?

    There is a ton of stuff in the way (exhaust, electrical, etc.).
    Stuff inside the back of the hull can be removed to gain better access. I have had the entire rubber+plastic exhaust resonator section out more than once. The seat base can also be unbolted (donít drop any of the washers or nuts).

    Just take photos and make notes so you can put things back exactly how it was. Double check all the large hose clamps (which should be done anyway, on any PWC).

    The factory paddle wheel speed sensor wire on my Yamaha goes through the left side wall of the pump tunnel, fairly close to the ride plate. Yamaha uses a smallish grommet through-hull wire seal, which is below water level when the hull is floating.

    I have the CANDooPro GPS speed module feeding my dash display so I do not need the paddle wheel. Re-purposed the factory hole for my Garmin sensor cable. Needed a larger fitting (hence the Heyco) to accommodate the Garmin cable connector.

  4. #14
    I put mine inside the hull, under the gas tank, it works very well. It's important to glue it in with no airbubbles in the adhesive.

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