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  1. #21
    Thank you, excellent outline.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    A new OEM seal would be optimal, but using the trimmed seal as it is I would suggest a bead of 3M 4200 Fast Cure sealant, applied along the entire front edge of the seal strip, before placing it into position.

    Fast Cure 4200 will take a couple of days to properly cure.

    You want zero air gaps, not even small ones, along the entire front edge of the ride plate and the hull and against the intake grate rear lower area.
    So I have a new seal / spacer on it's way. I believe you cut into your after market seal kit to allow the fingers to be used, except the two end ones. Here's what the R&D intake grate with seal kit looks like.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I didn't have cavitation problems until after I put the intake grate and ribbon delete on. I'm sure the ribbon delete didn't cause the issues. The reflash and prop are supposed to handle the bolt on mods. So I did a piss poor job putting on the grate. I'm hoping it was putting on the cut down spacer that caused the cavitation and top speed issue.

    I had the rough edge up against the ride plate.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The pump looks good for now.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalmxcool View Post
    So I have a new seal / spacer on it's way. I believe you cut into your after market seal kit to allow the fingers to be used, except the two end ones.

    Here's what the R&D intake grate with seal kit looks like.



    ...
    I did not cut any of the fingers off the flat factory rubber seal.

    My intake grates are OEM Yamaha GP1800R and Worx, not Riva.

    I did notch the four large R&D inserts (which fit both Worx and OEM Yamaha) to allow the flat seal fingers to slide in. Any sharp saw blade with good kerf clearance should work. I used a shark tooth style drywall saw.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #24
    Lake Lion
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    socalmxcool take that prop cone off.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by hotbutta View Post
    socalmxcool take that prop cone off.

    I saw that and thought, I dont think that was recommended to be used. Thank you


  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalmxcool View Post
    I saw that and thought, I dont think that was recommended to be used...
    Quote Originally Posted by hotbutta View Post
    socalmxcool take that prop cone off.
    This stator tail cone?



    Or this impeller nose cone?


  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    This stator tail cone?



    Or this impeller nose cone?

    The one on the shaft. Red background

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
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    R&D scoop grates really scrub speed. Swap back to stock and see what happens. Cavitation could just be because of the prop pitch.

  9. #29
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DH300 View Post
    R&D scoop grates really scrub speed. Swap back to stock and see what happens. Cavitation could just be because of the prop pitch.
    Whichever intake grate is used, the result will not be good if the area is not properly sealed.

    I suspect once the sealing issues are sorted out the ‘cavitation’ (actually ventilation) problem will go away.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by hotbutta View Post
    socalmxcool take that prop cone off.
    Done, but does something go into the void?

    Click image for larger version. 

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