Polaris wits end, Genesis Ficht 2003 & 2004

[Joe Michael]

Machines are up and running!

[K447]

... Any suggestions?

Tip: Click this link for lots of useful info related to Polaris PWC

Reading your post I would suspect that one or both EMM are not actually fully functional.

Since both machines failed around the same age (calendar time) and similar running hours, internal EMM failure seems possible.

Additional diagnostics can be done, but the quick answer is to send the EMM to Lakeside Tech for testing. Each EMM ‘fixed’ by Harris should be inspected/evaluated and proven to be good on a running engine.

Testing of the Ficht related components on each watercraft may be helpful, if you are willing.

Since these are Genesis there is a special LR-503 Start/Stop module that can affect the EMM. It is possible to unplug the LR-503 and bypass it for testing.

How to bypass the LR-503 Start/Stop module on Genesis and Virage 2002-2004 which have a single Deutsch connector.

Step 1)
Unplug the LR-503 module.
This will prevent the Start/Stop button from stopping the engine.

The lanyard safety switch will still be able to stop the engine, so use the lanyard to kill the engine if it starts.

Step 2)
Crank the engine, see if it starts promptly.
You can do this two different ways;

A) If you short the two heavy terminals (with the two heavy red wires bolted on) on the start solenoid together, the starter motor will crank the engine.

Peel back the two red covers, and use a short screwdriver blade to short between the two terminals. The engine should crank and should start, if the safety lanyard is in place.

Be aware that there will be sparking when you short those two posts together on the solenoid, so use a firm hand, and do not allow the tool to touch anything else.

Make sure there are no gasoline fumes inside the hull.

OR

B) Find a short length of thin solid copper wire to jumper between the Black (pin D) and Black/White (pin A) wires on the wire harness connector from which you removed the LR-503.

The LR-503 itself remains unconnected for this test.

Be careful to not connect to or between any other pins in the connector, to avoid blowing fuses or other problems.

If you have one handy, you can use an electronic test jumper wire, with small insulated alligator clips at each end.

This will enable the Start button to crank and start the engine. Use the lanyard to stop the engine.

Do not use the Start/Stop button to stop the engine, as it cannot do so without a working LR-503 module.


If the engine starts and runs with the LR-503 module removed, and stops using the lanyard, then the LR-503 module should be replaced.

As far as I know, the best replacement would the LR-503-4 (Polaris part number 4010906).

[K447]

Oh yes, welcome to the forum

[kevinz]

I have nothing to add other than if you want to sell one of them I might be interested, I live not far from LOZ.

[martincom]

If you title your post to be more specific to your model and trouble symptom(s), you'll likely receive more responses.

[nmpeter]

it sounds like you are using a "substitute" for the factory plugs

"Still if you ground a spark plug (new bosch)"

that's the root cause for many Polaris injection ski problems

there is only ONE plug you can use, substitutes can snooker the ignition system. There is NO legit cross reference to the Polaris factory plugs. NONE

I won't talk about the computer repairs as that has been covered, I'll agree that you should send them Lakeside as K447 indicated. I had lakeside repair an emm for a kawasaki for me recently and it was perfect. Before you chase your tail I would suggest sending them out to him, no doubt something isn't correct from what you describe. Before I stopped working on two strokes in general, I had dozens of Polaris skis come to my shop with EMM problems and in that time I used a company that is no longer in business with a nearly 100% success rate, to the joy of the customers as NOBODY could fix these machines properly. I was able to fix them mainly due to the top line information provided by K447 on the mentioned link.

Having significant experience in electrics helped too, I believe you have the skill level required to diagnose and repair these machines, with good technical info.

The emms can go south simply due to age. I'll emphasize that excellent batteries are essential for these skis to run properly.

Since you indicate the skis are in pristine condition you should be able to recoup a very good amount of your money if you can get them running with documented EMM refurbishment.

I know you're frustrated but the Polaris advice here will be the best of the best of the best

for a start, get the correct spark plugs in place. You can swap the EMM's for a quick start up test, at idle speed only to determine if one emm is dead or not.

for test firing use fuel only, and a teaspoon at max, down the plug holes only Mix up a small batch of premix for this purpose

use some line breaks to make your issues a bit more readable too

and again, welcome aboard GH!

[Joe Michael]

Thank you, that will give me a starting point. I have already exchanged the start/stop module with the machine that runs. It did not change anything. The more I learn about these machines the better off I'll be.

[Joe Michael]

My huge apologies on the spark plugs, I do have the correct NGK plugs in it. New ones at that. They are about $15 apiece. PZFR6H.

[Joe Michael]

nmpeter, thank you. They are great machines, my favorite to ride. I have purchased the good AGM batteries, never run one more than 2 seasons. I never want a bad battery to ruin a good charging system or worse. I guess that's what's so frustrating. I've never cut corners or tried to cheap out with them.

[nmpeter]

My huge apologies on the spark plugs, I do have the correct NGK plugs in it. New ones at that. They are about $15 apiece. PZFR6H.

good info. those plugs are pricey, these days not so much compared to other new entrants to the market

you need to assure the stator out cranking voltage is high enough, all of that is covered. but my best guess ( and its a good one) is that the emms are snookered and need reworks(again) You can check the operation of the dc-dc converter by measuring the voltage at the fuel injectors.

open the cover of your emm and see if its even been properly re-potted. The material is quite expensive. You'll find lakeside has a number of good threads on these topics along with plenty of images that show what a good emm looks like.

Some failures cannot be repaired at all, especially the ones that scorch the circuit boards or burn holes in them.

if you see lots and lots of jumpers wires akin to an old soviet sub, then you know that the jury rigging didn't work at all.

following the 447 pages are your best bet, see when Lakeside can start on one of your emms