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  1. #1

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    Polaris SL700 high rpm issues

    I'm new to this field and recently bought a Polaris SL700 (1996) I have read every post that I could find on this old ski but need a little more insight.
    I have updated the ignition system, rebuilt the twin carbs, replaced the battery, and verified the flywheel position with the piston for timing. The spec are for 18 degrees BTDC and when I first got it running it was 10 degrees at around max RPM. No Tach on this model. It was hard starting and kind of stumbled at high RPM. I adjusted the timing to the direction I thought was correct and it started right up, but was now set to "0" and still ran rough at high rpm. I went the other way with the timing which should have put it at 18 degrees but then would not start. I put it back to 7 degrees and it starts good but still runs rough at high RPM. Any thoughts out there?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Is the update kit aftermarket or did it come with a genuine PVL manufacture stator?

  3. #3

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    The update is from SBT.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Info seeker View Post
    The update is from SBT.
    I am not going to cast shade on SBT but we have seen reports from time to time of aftermarket stators that just do not work properly. The aftermarket stator may measure the correct ohms but installed in the engine something is just not right. Replace it with a known good genuine PVL (Polaris) stator and the engine runs just fine.

    The CDI from SBT is a genuine PVL part, it is the SBT stator that is not PVL.

    If you want to try a genuine (good used) Polaris stator it must be Gen III, also known as Update Kit type. And be for the same cylinder count as your engine, two cylinders.

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

  5. #5

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    The ignition upgrade kit is an SBT Kit # 16-302K

  6. #6

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    I certainly hope the stator is not the issue. After spending $600 on the kit I hope it works as advertised.

  7. #7

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    Update : I was able to get the timing up to 18 degrees and when I get it started it seems to run fine at higher RPMs on the trailer. I haven't had it in the water yet. It is hard to get started and sometimes I have to put a battery charger on it to get it started even though the voltage does not drop below 11.00 volts while cranking. Not sure what to do about that yet.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Info seeker View Post
    Update : I was able to get the timing up to 18 degrees and when I get it started it seems to run fine at higher RPMs on the trailer. I haven't had it in the water yet. It is hard to get started and sometimes I have to put a battery charger on it to get it started even though the voltage does not drop below 11.00 volts while cranking. Not sure what to do about that yet.
    I suggest an on-trailer ramp water test. Fully strap the hull down front and back, then roll it down the ramp until jet pump intake is fully submerged.

    Now you can start and run it as long as needed. Check engine temperatures, water leaks, throttle response, etc.

    Until you can reliably start it, and restart it, cold, warm, and hot, do NOT take it out on the water.

    If voltage into the CDI while cranking is staying above 10.6 then the hard starting problem may not be caused by voltage. May be fuel/carb settings, choke, flooded, or something.

  9. #9

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    I agree with the make it reliable before taking it out on the water. I have purchased a paddle and plan on being close to shore until proven reliable. The ramp test is in the plan and the hard starting is definitely an issue that need resolve. Cold starts seem to be the issue, once I have gotten it to run it starts right up. Seems like it is getting flooded on a cold start. I've tried full choke and no choke and even partial throttle, none seem to work when cold. After a lot of cranking the battery still stays above 11.0 volts but won't start. Putting the charger on it seems to give it the extra voltage to get it going. I think the power design on this ski is not the best, relying on voltage generated from the stator to make it run seems questionable. I get the fact of having generated power after it is running, but not to get it started.

  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    Are you using the choke ?

    It will not start on the water !
    Trailer test is a must !

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