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  1. #11
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input everyone, I see there will be things I need to watch out for submerging it (at least it'll be fresh water!) that I take for granted on boat trailers. I'm going to look at a 10-year old Triton aluminum snowmobile trailer tomorrow for $350 that tilts and looks to be in really good shape. I can use it for a dozen other things the rest of the year, and even store my hoists on it over the winter. And if it doesnt work out I'm not out much.
    I'll make sure to document my bunk building for the PWC's. I'm in the hardware R&D business, so this will be right up my ally.

  2. #12
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    Its here. Frame has zero corrosion and is in great shape, tires are new, and the lights all work. Seems like a great deal for $350. Now to dive into it and see what I'm up against.
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  3. #13

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    will be interesting to see how you modify this to haul Seadoo's.

    do you know axle rating on that trailer? what are tire ratings? just things you may want to confirm are high enough to haul the weight for 2 hours. other than that you should have no issues.

  4. #14
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arctic388 View Post
    will be interesting to see how you modify this to haul Seadoo's.

    do you know axle rating on that trailer? what are tire ratings? just things you may want to confirm are high enough to haul the weight for 2 hours. other than that you should have no issues.
    The GSX is 500lbs dry, and the GTX is 650lbs dry. So 1300lbs all ready to go?

    The trailer is actually a Newman, and it has a 2000lbs ISUS axle under it. They went out of business, but it looks like they were rated for 1420lbs of load capacity, so I should be good to go. Tires are rated for 1880lbs total.

  5. #15
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    This is a quick, crude proof-of-concept, but I've figured out what my layout is going to be. I'm going to get 4x6 that are 6 foot long, rip the top off them at the correct angle (18?) to meet the hull, bolt them to 2x8 boards that sit on the frame cross-bars on the trailer. There are powder coated L-brackets sold on Amazon pretty cheap, and I can carpet the bunks myself. I figure I can do all this for under $200. I'll start a new thread when I do the build.

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  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBlueMartin View Post
    ... 4x6 that are 6 foot long, rip the top off them at the correct angle (18?) to meet the hull ...
    Perhaps better, bolt the cut angled edges down against the 2x8. That would angle the two 4x6 towards each other, resisting the outward push across the bunk tops when the hull weight is on them.

    Run a router along the upper edges to round them over. That reduces the wear/friction on the carpet around the board corners.

  7. #17
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Perhaps better, bolt the cut angled edges down against the 2x8. That would angle the two 4x6 towards each other, resisting the outward push across the bunk tops when the hull weight is on them.

    Run a router along the upper edges to round them over. That reduces the wear/friction on the carpet around the board corners.

    While I completely agree the physics behind that is much better, my worry is how to firmly hold the runners to the base boards. If I go the route you are talking about I'd need brackets that are 108 on the outside edges. If I leave them straight vertical, I can bolt heavy brackets to them that will withhold multitudes more weight than they'll ever need to.

  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBlueMartin View Post
    While I completely agree the physics behind that is much better, my worry is how to firmly hold the runners to the base boards. ...
    Put flat brackets on the ends of the angled 4x6, down to the 2x8.

    Bracket can be wider than 4 inches as long as it doesnt reach too close to the top of the angled bunk.

    You could also run lag bolts straight up through the 2x8 from the bottom side. Pre-drill the holes and use large washers to spread the head load. Six inch lag bolts might be long enough

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  10. #19
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Put flat brackets on the ends of the angled 4x6, down to the 2x8.

    Bracket can be wider than 4 inches as long as it doesn’t reach too close to the top of the angled bunk.

    You could also run lag bolts straight up through the 2x8 from the bottom side. Pre-drill the holes and use large washers to spread the head load. Six inch lag bolts might be long enough
    Sold!! That's a great idea, and it saves me $150 in brackets @ $19 each.


  11. #20
    TheBlueMartin's Avatar
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    After starting a new job a month ago, I finally had time to go get the lumber for this. Now if only it'd stop raining, I could start cutting and mocking it up! $65 for everything so far.

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