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  1. #1

    1100 zxi pump rebuild questions

    So I am in the process of rebuilding my pump with a new pump rebuild kit, impeller shaft, seals, impeller, and wear ring (impeller came loose and wore a nice ring in the wear ring). I just about know what all to do but there are a few things I need clarified first.

    1) when installing the wear ring what should I put around the ring to reduce the chances or aluminum corrosion and there for ruining the wear ting down the line from bulging it inwards? Should I just smear it in antisieze? Marine grease? Treat it with something before?

    2) when installing the seals what type of lubricant should I install it with? A little bit of silicone grease, oil, or marine grease?

    3) In a few rebuild kits I saw came with a 4th really large Oring (when I say large I mean much larger than the others but not the huge pump shoe to pump seal/oring). What could that be for? I have a 96 1100 zxi and I could not find that Oring anywhere in the pump so I opted for the kit with 3 orings but would get the extra Oring if I could find where it belongs. I thought maybe it would go at the rear of the impeller in between the rear housing because there is a step there but it definitely doesnít look like a place for an oring. (I am not too considered with this last question but since I was making a thread for the first two I figured I would throw it in lol, pretty sure itís not for my ski)


  2. #2
    Rodsatheart's Avatar
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    As far as I know, the wear ring is installed dry.
    The seals are installed dry, but you could put a thin layer of high temp rtv or Three bond if you have it laying around.
    You need to make sure you a getting a good kit, and the picture could be generic. I don't know of a large 5"+ o ring on that pump, just one for the cone.

  3. #3

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    When I pressed my wear ring in I coated it with RTV on the inside but you can see it just squish out when pressed in so I doubt it matters. I have a full rebuild of the same style pump on here somewhere. I also build up the edges on my trashed impeller and machined down to get a real tight clearance. I think I am at .008" but the post denotes this.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodsatheart View Post
    As far as I know, the wear ring is installed dry.
    The seals are installed dry, but you could put a thin layer of high temp rtv or Three bond if you have it laying around.
    You need to make sure you a getting a good kit, and the picture could be generic. I don't know of a large 5"+ o ring on that pump, just one for the cone.
    Thanks! I got a kit but it seems to be generic and from what I can tell look like all the rest. The SBT kit uses (at least from the picture) Chinese bearings so I’m not aure it would be any better than the one I got and I cant find any that claim to be of higher quality.

    Quote Originally Posted by TJS0712F View Post
    When I pressed my wear ring in I coated it with RTV on the inside but you can see it just squish out when pressed in so I doubt it matters. I have a full rebuild of the same style pump on here somewhere. I also build up the edges on my trashed impeller and machined down to get a real tight clearance. I think I am at .008" but the post denotes this.
    I have actually read your thread before ! Very informative thank you. I believe even though it squished out a very thin layer would be left in any low spots that could potentially hold water (talking very small amounts) there for being effective in its purpose. Where did you get your wear ring? I received mine today from the J$P amazon store and it’s actually undersized ever so slightly, not completely circular, and the weld is garbage. I'm returning it until I can find a better one, really glad I did not take out my old wear ring yet!

  5. #5
    Rodsatheart's Avatar
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    What year is it ? The best would be oem, but you pay for it. I would also replace the shaft while your in there. After I put new bearings, seals, shaft, and Solas impeller in my STX, I ended up with .006 clearance.

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    I got my wear ring from ebay Selller Jet Ski Parts. It is in my post. The welds needed to be massaged a little with a sand grit roll to smooth it out be he states that in his ebay post. Sound like the same seller is selling on amazon too.
    Here is my post for reference.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=247134

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodsatheart View Post
    What year is it ? The best would be oem, but you pay for it. I would also replace the shaft while your in there. After I put new bearings, seals, shaft, and Solas impeller in my STX, I ended up with .006 clearance.
    I got the kit and I found one bearing to be leaking and the other to have noticeable pits in it when rotating it by hand... Sooooo I just returned it and ordered everything OEM on ebay with New Old Stock (hopefully the seals arn't too old). This is my second time learning the hard way with buying cheaper for this ski, the first time was an ebay carb kit that made it run worse. To answer your question the ski is a 1996.

    BUT.... now I have more questions that are really puzzling me.

    1) When I removed the pump the larger of the two seals and the one that is right under the snap ring was turned around backwards or with the spring side out and the flat side in. The second smaller one behind it was facing me with the flat side up. Is it supposed to be this way or was it installed wrong? (I am talking about the rubber ones with the small spring on the back, not the orings)

    2) When looking at a pump diagram of this ski I see a seal called "seal jetpump" that is listed in the same box as the impeller on a diagram. The part number is 92092-3739. I have never seen this one before to my knowledge when I looked it up, is it supposed to be the stock impeller nosecone? If so I plan on running my new Solas impeller without a nose cone, that is ok right? it has an oring inside that looks like it will bottom out on the shaft when it is torqued down.

    Thanks everyone!

  8. #8
    Rodsatheart's Avatar
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    Yes, that's correct orientation of the seals. Install the new ones the same way, and use marine grease in between them, lots of grease in the housing, and some in the tail cone.
    The new impeller will come with a new cone. Some use it, some don't. The blue anodized one looks pretty, but doesn't stay in place very well. Rubber one will prob work better. Some silicone on the blue one would prob help it stay.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodsatheart View Post
    Yes, that's correct orientation of the seals. Install the new ones the same way, and use marine grease in between them, lots of grease in the housing, and some in the tail cone.
    The new impeller will come with a new cone. Some use it, some don't. The blue anodized one looks pretty, but doesn't stay in place very well. Rubber one will prob work better. Some silicone on the blue one would prob help it stay.
    I had no idea about the grease in between the seals and in the housing thanks!!! as far as the nose cone, is there anything theoretically wrong with running without it? I know it makes the ski a little faster but theoretically is it more likely to push water past the splines and into the pump or just spline and thread protection? and with that is that weird seal called the seal jetpump that is on the stock diagram and part number 92092-3739 the stock nosecone?

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Rodsatheart's Avatar
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    A lot of folks run with out the impeller seal with no issues. Your going to grease the splines with marine grease anyway, and the impeller threads onto the pump shaft. If your in doubt, just silicone the new impeller seal in place, but remember to clear the nose of the impeller with alcohol so the silicone will stick. The oem one is installed into the impeller like a oil seal. It's the metal ring with the blueish/green seal in it in the impeller. I believe it's more designed to keep water out of the splines more than anything.

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