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  1. #21
    Just checked compression, 120psi dead on both cylinders. Plugs were very wet so I’m definitely running it rich.

    This is thing is fighting me every step of the way, I went to check compression and nothing was happening, no dash lights nothing when I hit the start button. After a few basic checks I decided to pull apart the stop switch assembly, found a nicely corroded broken wire. I guess I should be thankful it didn’t act up out in the water and got us home, but this is getting old...

    are these prone to fail? Trying to decide between fixing this one(which is difficult due to tight wiring spaces, or getting a new or used one.

    Thanks,


  2. #22
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Wet plugs when checking compression doesn't mean rich/lean, your plugs will be a bit wet when running at idle (ie; when flushing after a ride). Lean/rich is tested and tuned with a scope looking at piston wash on tops of the pistons or with a tach while running in the water.
    I'd fix the switch before replacing it, a corroded wire on the stop/start isn't a big deal

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffg426690 View Post
    Wet plugs when checking compression doesn't mean rich/lean, your plugs will be a bit wet when running at idle (ie; when flushing after a ride). Lean/rich is tested and tuned with a scope looking at piston wash on tops of the pistons or with a tach while running in the water.
    I'd fix the switch before replacing it, a corroded wire on the stop/start isn't a big deal
    good point. On an unrelated topic hit me up if you’d like to head out riding sometime(I live in Lakewood ranch). I have another ski that is 100%, and have been looking for some fun places to ride. Been mainly launching from ft hammer but tried out kingfish ramp yesterday, would love to try out some new places to ride.

  4. #24
    Tool Bag water worx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RG5384 View Post
    Thanks, I did have the exhaust off to install the waveater clips and all was intact at that time. Granted I didnít know exactly what I was looking at and for, but I didnít see anything missing or obviously wrong.
    The blade can be broke off & everything will look alright up top.

  5. #25
    Took out the fuel baffle this morning, that trap door was hung up, and twisted, and the entire bottom of the pickup where the screen is was twisted as well. I removed all of those, and re-installed. I’m going to go ahead and replace the PV servo as well and hope that one of those two solves my problem.

  6. #26
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Test the servo before replacing it, remove the cables from the wheel and activate it - watch the ends of the cables. Also check that the pv's turn freely. If the servo turns and moves the cables, your issue is with the pv's - not the servo. I'd do that before throwing parts at it.
    The cables when installed on the wheel should have some play in them, too tight will also cause problems.

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  8. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffg426690 View Post
    Pull servo cables off the wheel and activate the servo, do the cables move then or still just twitch? That should tell you if you have a servo prob

    I'd clean the pv's first before doing anything else. Pull them completely out, get all the carbon off (wire wheel on a bench grinder works great for this). Clean all the gunk out, q-tips w carb cleaner works well. Re-assemble w new gaskets. Red loctite on the small allens. With the cables off, they should turn very easily and freely without any stickiness anywhere by turning the wheel by hand (open to close is about a quarter turn)
    Just got the exhaust off and dug into the power valves. The Mag cylinder was extremely sticky, and was very difficult to move even by hand. I took out the allen head, removed the retaining clips, and now have access to just the part that moves in and out of the cylinder head. How do I remove that from the head though? I don't want to force anything, and it seems like it is pretty good in there, I.E. won't just pull straight out.

    Also, the servo motor is toast, so I've got another used one to try. Odd part about this is, I know for a fact the servo used to cycle, I guess cycling and actually working when on the water could be two different things though, especially if it was binding up.

    Thanks!

  9. #28
    Disregard, figured out how to remove. Now just need to remember which way it came out to put it back in...

  10. #29
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RG5384 View Post
    Disregard, figured out how to remove. Now just need to remember which way it came out to put it back in...
    The beveled /angled part of the pv on cyl end faces UP

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  12. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffg426690 View Post
    The beveled /angled part of the pv on cyl end faces UP
    In other words, the longer edge is on top facing the head, then the shorter edge is on bottom facing into the exhaust stream.

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