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  1. #1

    I just bought a 2002 1200 STX-R. What should I do first?

    It has 223 hours on it. I don't know anything about it's history unfortunately. The seller had bought it used in 2016. It starts right up and seems to run great on the trailer but I haven't water tested it yet. I started another thread before I bought it but I figured I would start a new thread now that I officially own it.

    I have done some research here and it seems the number one thing to do is install a triple pisser mod from Skiworx.
    Checking the oil lines and cable are also very important.

    Should I water test it first to make sure it is running well? If it isn't maybe I'll have some recourse from the seller but that is doubtful.





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    Last edited by beekermartin; 04-27-2019 at 11:40 AM.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Sedalia, MO
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    Oh boy. I have one of these skis, a 2002 also. I paid $800 for mine. They are great machines and very, very fast. Yours looks to be overall pretty clean for its age.

    My ski did not run when I bought it so my advice will be different since yours does. It's generally cheap insurance to throw a new set of spark plugs in them, so get 3 NGK BR9ES plugs and install them. The fuel filter is replaceable, but if it doesn't look dirty I wouldn't touch it. The carbs for these skis are kinda strange and rebuild kits are pricey. I wouldn't touch them just yet since you said it runs great on the trailer.

    For the oil, if the cable is hooked up, adjusted properly, and actuates the arm on the oil pump when the throttle is squeezed, there's a very good chance the oil system is fine. They rarely if ever fail, and when they do it's usually because a line broke due to age or the cable was out of adjustment. I replaced all my oil lines with yellow Tygon line so I can see oil flow through them.

    I would put fresh 91 octane fuel in it, add a little oil to the fuel as a safeguard in case the oil injection doesn't work, and ride it. See how it performs. Check the plugs after the ride and see how they look. But I haven't had any issues with mine.

    On a cosmetic note, it looks like yours is missing a decal on each side up front. It's like a green swoosh. On the left side, it runs right by the fuel filler cap. I've noticed when I fill mine sometimes a little fuel will burp out when it gets full. It runs down the sticker and ruins it. That may be likely what happened to yours, and a previous owner at some point just pulled them off both sides so it didn't look odd. No biggie, just thought I'd let you know.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by kevinz View Post
    Oh boy. I have one of these skis, a 2002 also. I paid $800 for mine. They are great machines and very, very fast. Yours looks to be overall pretty clean for its age.

    My ski did not run when I bought it so my advice will be different since yours does. It's generally cheap insurance to throw a new set of spark plugs in them, so get 3 NGK BR9ES plugs and install them. The fuel filter is replaceable, but if it doesn't look dirty I wouldn't touch it. The carbs for these skis are kinda strange and rebuild kits are pricey. I wouldn't touch them just yet since you said it runs great on the trailer.

    For the oil, if the cable is hooked up, adjusted properly, and actuates the arm on the oil pump when the throttle is squeezed, there's a very good chance the oil system is fine. They rarely if ever fail, and when they do it's usually because a line broke due to age or the cable was out of adjustment. I replaced all my oil lines with yellow Tygon line so I can see oil flow through them.

    I would put fresh 91 octane fuel in it, add a little oil to the fuel as a safeguard in case the oil injection doesn't work, and ride it. See how it performs. Check the plugs after the ride and see how they look. But I haven't had any issues with mine.

    On a cosmetic note, it looks like yours is missing a decal on each side up front. It's like a green swoosh. On the left side, it runs right by the fuel filler cap. I've noticed when I fill mine sometimes a little fuel will burp out when it gets full. It runs down the sticker and ruins it. That may be likely what happened to yours, and a previous owner at some point just pulled them off both sides so it didn't look odd. No biggie, just thought I'd let you know.
    Thank you for the great response! I paid $2,200 with the trailer. I know I didn't rob it by any means but that appears to be the market value for it. If it wasn't running then I wouldn't have paid anywhere near that of course. I see the decal that is missing that you are talking about. I'll look into what it would cost to order it but I imagine it will be expensive and not really worth it.

    Do you think I should water test it if the oil lines and cable appear to be in good condition?



    Not the best photo but you can see the clear fuel filter. It appears to be clean.
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  4. #4
    Replace fuel filter, fuel lines and oil lines before running. Remove carbs and take a look make sure they are all spotless. Just these alone will be peice of mind she doesnt blow, also replace spark plugs. This is exactly what i do with a new to me machine.

    First run looks for leaks around drive shaft coupler and thru hull. Make sure engine spins at full rpm and has no hesitation or bog. Any sign of running incorrectly will blow theses up, they do not have much room for error and are tuned from factory on the wild side to get that 150hp.

    From your pics looks in good shape, completely stock. Engine has come apart before, so it looks like it had a top end at some point. Display works which is very good, i would also recommend pullinh pump and spending the 50 bucks on a rebuild kit so your summer doesnt get cut short due to a bearing failure.

  5. #5
    Here are a few pics of the pump. I have no idea what to look for. I have a lot to learn but hopefully with help from people here I will learn quickly.

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  6. #6
    Remove steering nozzle, remove waterline, remove two allen heads from ride plate remove the 4 14mm bolts and pull the pump off. Need to inspect hoe bearings feel, condition of impeller and wear ring. If you dont want to rebuild atleast remove nose cone and check for water

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Remove steering nozzle, remove waterline, remove two allen heads from ride plate remove the 4 14mm bolts and pull the pump off. Need to inspect hoe bearings feel, condition of impeller and wear ring. If you dont want to rebuild atleast remove nose cone and check for water
    I will work on that after the oil lines. There is a lot of oil in the hull under the engine. I have it angled towards the back and I am allowing it to pool in the back so I can clean it out. Could have been a spill when filling the tank but that is unlikely. Most likely there is a leak from one of the lines. I don't know how to access the lines yet. I'll search here for a post about how to replace them.
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  8. #8
    The two air intake hoses in the rear. Do they just sit in there pointing towards the bottom rear of the hull?

    Someone here offered to send me the service manual. I imagine once I have that I'll be able to answer a lot of simple dumb questions like that myself.
    Last edited by beekermartin; 04-27-2019 at 08:08 PM.

  9. #9
    Pull your spark arrester and youll see the oil lines. Could be just from a spill but like i said before i would replace and secure all new lines before running.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Pull your spark arrester and youll see the oil lines. Could be just from a spill but like i said before i would replace and secure all new lines before running.
    That's the problem. I don't know what that is. Lol

    I have owned many dirt bikes, 125hp Mercury outboard, tons of small engine equipmemt, etc. This is my first jetski and everything looks foreign to me. Like I said once I can read the service manual I imagine it will all make a lot more sense.

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