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  1. #971

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    I would inspect the nipple carefully (I ALWAYS look carefully at nipples ). See if it could be leaking where it goes into the casting, or if it has a crack or burr.
    I have had small hairline crack in my selector valve before. It was plastic (thanks Polaris) but I couldn't see it and only noticed it after pushing the fuel line around and seeing a small wet spot on the valve. Looking at it I had absolutely no idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I called Impros today and told them I was hitting 7200 rpms with the stock damaged impeller. They said they are going to repitch the Solas 15/21 to better match my ski. I know they know what they are doing so I imagine it will be a perfect match. I probably won't be able to water test it with the new impeller installed this fall. Maybe I'll get lucky and the weather will be good enough for one more ride.
    Get a good wetsuit, only thing that matters is water temp! Get yourself a 6mm wetsuit and you won't even care if the waters in the 40s. Just make sure that big engine can handle it. Only thing I have that can handle it are my stand ups. Water is still in the 50s by me in SE Wisconsin.

  2. #972
    I tested the petcock valve tonight using the original fuel line I had replaced with the Shields fuel line. The original fuel line fits tighter on the petcock valve fittings and there are no leaks. Needless to say I am very disappointed I used the best fuel line available (yes it is the correct size 1/4") and that is the cause of my leak. Now I can't help but wonder if that is the reason I had two piston failures???
    I will never know for sure but it is a possibility. If I would have ran the ski for a few hours and then changed the fuel line it would be easier to say the leaking fuel line caused the issue. Since I changed the fuel line after only a short water test I will never know for sure if that was the cause. To think about all the money I spent rebuilding this motor twice and the cause could have been my fault for replacing the fuel lines that weren't bad to begin with. Never mind the fact I missed the entire season of riding.

    Oh well. Too late now to change anything. I will say that I have learned enough throughout this ordeal that I will never make the same mistakes again. I will never rebuild an engine or open a fuel system without doing a pressure test. I will also always have a see through piece of fuel line so I can see the fuel flowing and verify there are no air bubbles in the line.

    For all I know there could have been several issues that all contributed to the seizures. Still from what it sounds like air bubbles in the fuel line can cause a piston seizure. I still have air bubbles after rebuilding the entire engine and replacing the fuel pump. Therefore the air bubbles could have been the main reason for the seizures.

  3. #973
    Once I have all the fuel lines back in the ski here is my plan to pressure test it. I am going to connect a hose to the vent check valve connection on the tank. Then pump it up to 15 psi and check for leaks. I think 15 psi is a good pressure since the carbs were popping off slightly higher than that. Maybe I should do it at a lower pressure? How long should it hold pressure for without dropping? If it is dropping I will search for the leak using soapy water in a spray bottle.

    Does that sound right? If I am thinking about this properly as long as the carbs don't pop off the pressure should hold indefinitely if there are no leaks. I don't know if that is the case though.

  4. #974

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    Once I have all the fuel lines back in the ski here is my plan to pressure test it. I am going to connect a hose to the vent check valve connection on the tank. Then pump it up to 15 psi and check for leaks. I think 15 psi is a good pressure since the carbs were popping off slightly higher than that. Maybe I should do it at a lower pressure? How long should it hold pressure for without dropping? If it is dropping I will search for the leak using soapy water in a spray bottle.

    Does that sound right? If I am thinking about this properly as long as the carbs don't pop off the pressure should hold indefinitely if there are no leaks. I don't know if that is the case though.
    5 PSI should be enough. The sea doo manual says 5, the kawasaki manual doesn't say at all. Why take a chance on distorting or splitting a seam on your tank?

    Edit: I just looked in the sea doo manual. It says it should hold 5 PSI of pressure for 10 minutes.

  5. #975
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    5 PSI should be enough. The sea doo manual says 5, the kawasaki manual doesn't say at all. Why take a chance on distorting or splitting a seam on your tank?

    Edit: I just looked in the sea doo manual. It says it should hold 5 PSI of pressure for 10 minutes.
    Thank you FL_Rider! 5 psi is what I will try.

  6. #976
    Update: now that the fuel lines connected to the petcock aren't leaking I was still losing pressure slowly. I bought a new gauge to make sure that wasn't the issue. With the new gauge installed I am still losing pressure slowly. I sprayed everything down with soapy water again and found that the petcock is in fact leaking. Very slowly put leaking none the less.

    The screws on it are very tight. I am going to bring it work tomorrow to try to get them out. Can the seal inside be replaced? I assume it is just an oring but I won't know until I get it apart.

  7. #977
    I got the petcock valve apart. There is corrosion or mineral deposits inside where the oring on the shaft seals. I am going to clean it up with some fine grit sand paper and install a new oring. Maybe that will seal it. Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #978
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    This is the fuel shut-off valve for a carburetor engine, correct?

    A good new replacement fuel valve is probably not that expensive. It is important that your fuel valve not leak fuel or fumes into the hull, even after several years of service. Cleaning up an old valve with sandpaper sounds like a short term repair. If the replacement o-ring wears against the valve surfaces it might eventually begin leaking.

    In addition, the fuel valve may be under partial suction when the engine is running. Even tiny leaks of air into the fuel flow can cause problems for the fuel pump/carbs, potentially reducing fuel pressure/flow.

    Regarding leaks where the fuel hose connects to the valve nipples, I recommend Oetiker gapless/stepless hose clamps rather than old-school gear style hose clamps. The Oetiker clamps seal extremely well and cannot loosen over time with vibration.

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  10. #979
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    This is the fuel shut-off valve for a carburetor engine, correct?

    A good new replacement fuel valve is probably not that expensive. It is important that your fuel valve not leak fuel or fumes into the hull, even after several years of service. Cleaning up an old valve with sandpaper sounds like a short term repair. If the replacement o-ring wears against the valve surfaces it might eventually begin leaking.

    In addition, the fuel valve may be under partial suction when the engine is running. Even tiny leaks of air into the fuel flow can cause problems for the fuel pump/carbs, potentialy reducing fuel pressure/flow.

    Regarding leaks where the fuel hose connects to the valve nipples, I recommend Oetiker gapless/stepless hose clamps rather than old-school gear style hose clamps. The Oetiker clamps seal extremely well and cannot loosen over time with vibration.
    A new petcock valve is ~$100 shipped. Not terribly expensive but not cheap either. I will try to clean it up and see how it comes out. If it doesn't look great then I will have to replace it.

  11. #980
    steve45's Avatar
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    Feb 2008
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    Texas
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    Does the gas gauge work? If so, you don't need a Reserve setting or a selector valve. Plug the On outlet, hook the hose directly to the Reserve outlet. When the gauge gets low, put gas in it.

    The only problem with this is that you don't have an Off setting. You can buy an On-Off inline valve pretty cheap.


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