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  1. #931
    steve45's Avatar
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    The plugs look a lot better!

    I'd probably want at least an hour, perhaps 2 on it before I ran it at full throttle for a steady 30 seconds.

    After I get 5 hours, I run pre-mix and oil injection and run continuous full throttle for several hours. I don't stop pre-mix until I get about 10 hours on it.

  2. #932
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    The plugs look a lot better!

    I'd probably want at least an hour, perhaps 2 on it before I ran it at full throttle for a steady 30 seconds.

    After I get 5 hours, I run pre-mix and oil injection and run continuous full throttle for several hours. I don't stop pre-mix until I get about 10 hours on it.
    Since the season is almost over I won't have many more chances to break it in unless I get a wet suit. Lol.

    I have over an hour on it now. I'll put another hour on it before I go WOT.

    This is off topic but can someone post a link to a good winterizing thread. I am planning on buying a cart so I can keep it in my garage through the winter. I found this on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F172589774248

  3. #933

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    Aug 2019
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    I would wait until its broken in and your plugs are looking good. You said you swapped plugs 2 and 3? So, the brown color came from it being in cylinder 3? Maybe put a fresh plug in #2 and ride it a bit to see how it turns out before going WOT.

    Also, you might want to read up on prop load and how it relates to EGT, timing, detonation, etc. Being underpropped and overpropped each have their own things to watch out for.

  4. #934
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    I would wait until its broken in and your plugs are looking good. You said you swapped plugs 2 and 3? So, the brown color came from it being in cylinder 3? Maybe put a fresh plug in #2 and ride it a bit to see how it turns out before going WOT.

    Also, you might want to read up on prop load and how it relates to EGT, timing, detonation, etc. Being underpropped and overpropped each have their own things to watch out for.
    I am planning on installing three new plugs before I ride it again. I will definitely be checking them before I go WOT.

    I understand the importance of having the correct prop. That is why I sent my Solas impeller to Impros to have them pitch it properly for my ski. I want to tell them what RPMs my stock beat up impeller is hitting so they have something to go by.

  5. #935

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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I am planning on installing three new plugs before I ride it again. I will definitely be checking them before I go WOT.

    I understand the importance of having the correct prop. That is why I sent my Solas impeller to Impros to have them pitch it properly for my ski. I want to tell them what RPMs my stock beat up impeller is hitting so they have something to go by.
    Cool... Keep us posted

  6. #936
    Take a look at aqua cart, i have two of them. Very happy with the quality

  7. #937
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    If you do decide to do it, the mixture screw has a spring, a tiny washer, and an o-ring on it. The washer and o-ring will likely stay in the hole and you'll have to make a tiny hook out of a paper clip to fish them out. You might want to put a large tray under the carbs when you do it in case the little parts fall out.
    Do you know if the oring for the pilot adjuster is the same as the one for the float valve? I found the part number for the pilot assembly but it doesn't list the oring separately. I assume it is the same oring but it might not be.

    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    There is a low speed adjuster for each carb. There are no high speed adjusters.

    I only posted close up shots of two of the carbs instead of all three carbs. I didn't mean to imply there were only two adjuster screws.
    Just to verify the only adjustment on these carbs is the pilot jet/low speed adjuster correct?

    Before I remove the pilot I will first turn it in and count the turns so I know where they are currently set. Once I know that I will have a better idea of what to try to set them to next. The service manual says 1 and a 1/4 turns plus or minus a 1/2 turn open.

  8. #938

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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    Do you know if the oring for the pilot adjuster is the same as the one for the float valve? I found the part number for the pilot assembly but it doesn't list the oring separately. I assume it is the same oring but it might not be.



    Just to verify the only adjustment on these carbs is the pilot jet/low speed adjuster correct?

    Before I remove the pilot I will first turn it in and count the turns so I know where they are currently set. Once I know that I will have a better idea of what to try to set them to next. The service manual says 1 and a 1/4 turns plus or minus a 1/2 turn open.
    The mixture screw o-ring is different from the needle/seat o-ring. I ordered some different size Keihin o-rings and the 2.8 mm ID x 1.2 mm cross section fit the best on the mixture screw. I did a thread on it recently here on Greenhulk and on pwctoday. "Ultra 150 carb o-ring sizes". If you want to see the pictures, they're in the threads.

    Yes, the mixtures screws are the only adjustment except for the idle speed adjuster.

  9. #939

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    I just did a mock up of getting a screwdriver on the adjustment screws. Of course, it will be a little tougher working in the hull, but I think its do-able. Since pulling the carbs would waste valuable riding time, maybe opening the screws a little might help the hesitation...






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  10. #940
    I'm gonna hold off touching the pilot screws until I receive the orings. I'll remove the carbs when I decide to do it. Not sure what I am looking at yet. Once I know I can probably adjust them in the hull but it doesn't look easy to do.

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