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  1. #841

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Central Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I did. Testing the pulse line it held pressure for almost exactly the same amount of time as the new pump. Also there was no visible leaks on the exterior using soapy water.

    I have cleaned off the buildup in the pump housing so maybe that fixed it. Unfortunately I will never know if it leaked prior to me taking it apart.
    You're right. You may never know. It would be good to find a smoking gun here though.

  2. #842
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    You're right. You may never know. It would be good to find a smoking gun here though.
    The closest I have found is the fuel pump. Since it also wouldn't bleed the air out of the reserve fuel line it leads me to believe that was the issue. It took a long time to bleed the air out of the main line as well but that eventually cleared. I kept trying to clear the reserve line but it would die after a few seconds and I had to put it back on the main line to restart the engine. I tried well over 20 times and it would not clear. I think if the fuel pump was working 100% then it should have cleared. I took the entire fuel system apart and there was no issues. I used a manual transfer pump and it flows perfectly set to main or reserve.

  3. #843
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    Ok, since there's nothing published that I could find about these fuel pumps, I want to know the answers. I have two carb assemblies that I bench tested.
    One of them tested at 5 PSI on the pulse nipple and held with zero loss for 3 minutes. It may have held longer, but I figured 3 minutes was enough.

    The second one bled the pressure off at a rate of about 1 PSI over a minute or minute & half. I didn't time it because I saw it was bleeding a little. It finally stopped bleeding at 3 PSI and held for a little while before I unhooked it.
    Both tests were done with the inlet and outlet nipples open.
    Then... I applied vacuum with a mighty vac vacuum tester to the inlet nipple. It would not hold a vacuum.
    Then... I applied pressure to the outlet nipple. It would not hold pressure.
    The idea was to see if the check valves were holding.
    This was also done with the no caps on either the inlet or outlet. Although capping the inlet and outlet and holding pressure is important, I also want to test to see if the check valves hold.
    So... I am going to take off the fuel pump on one carb assembly, find a way to seal or loop the ports that connect to the carbs, and retest the inlet and outlet nipples. The screws were tight, so I sprayed some WD and I will try to get them out later. I'll post up what I find.
    Awesome! I searched and searched and could not find anything about how to test the pump. That is when I decided to open mine up and found all the mineral deposits. I posted pics of them earlier in the thread. The diaphragms also looked stretched out but I don't know what new ones are suppose to look like. If you find a way to test them I imagine that would be a huge help to others in the future.

  4. #844

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    56
    When you replaced your fuel lines, did you blow into the return line to force gas from the tank to prime the lines before trying to start it? If not, that's probably the explanation for why it took a while to prime.

    Or... a fuel line connection or the selector valve may be sucking air.
    I'd recommend pressurizing the fuel system to make sure there are no leaks. If your fuel system is good, then you should be ready to ride.

    If you didn't prime the lines last time, make sure to do it this time because it will prime your carbs too and make it start easier. After everything is hooked up except the return line, blow into the return line until gas comes out the return nipple on the fuel pump.

  5. #845
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    When you replaced your fuel lines, did you blow into the return line to force gas from the tank to prime the lines before trying to start it? If not, that's probably the explanation for why it took a while to prime.

    Or... a fuel line connection or the selector valve may be sucking air.
    I'd recommend pressurizing the fuel system to make sure there are no leaks. If your fuel system is good, then you should be ready to ride.

    If you didn't prime the lines last time, make sure to do it this time because it will prime your carbs too and make it start easier. After everything is hooked up except the return line, blow into the return line until gas comes out the return nipple on the fuel pump.
    I did not prime the lines. I now know I should have. I do think if the pump was 100% it should have been able to bleed the reserve line eventually. I could be wrong about that though. Maybe priming is required in order for the pump to work properly.

    I am planning on connecting a manual transfer pump to the feed line where it connects to the fuel pump. I will then pump fuel with the petcock set to main and reserve. After that I will connect the feed line to the pump and blow into the return line until fuel comes out of the return nipple on the pump.

    Does that sound correct?

  6. #846

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    Awesome! I searched and searched and could not find anything about how to test the pump. That is when I decided to open mine up and found all the mineral deposits. I posted pics of them earlier in the thread. The diaphragms also looked stretched out but I don't know what new ones are suppose to look like. If you find a way to test them I imagine that would be a huge help to others in the future.
    New diaphragms are flat with no distortion. They still work when stretched, but I don't know what the limits are. According to the manuals for Mikuni carbs, which work the same way as Keihin, you just pressure test the diaphragm and make sure the check valves work. That's it. If that checks out, the pump should work.
    Mine has 310+ hours and is still working fine.

  7. #847
    steve45's Avatar
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    No need to prime the pump. Put a teaspoon of gas into the carbs and it will fire off instantly. You'll probably have to prime it twice, but after it runs for 10 seconds, the fuel system will be full.

  8. #848
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    No need to prime the pump. Put a teaspoon of gas into the carbs and it will fire off instantly. You'll probably have to prime it twice, but after it runs for 10 seconds, the fuel system will be full.
    That wasn't the case for me after I changed the fuel lines. Which is the main reason I am convinced my pump was bad. That and I haven't found anything else wrong. LOL


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