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  1. #831
    I have to wait for the new intake manifold gaskets to arrive to do much more. I ordered this as well: Permatex 80065 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant, 8 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBICK2..._MtPFDbJ43V8B1
    Should I spray the gaskets with them before installing them? I figured it couldn't hurt and might help seal it.


  2. #832
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    To test pump just hook your pressure tester to the pulse nipple. If it holds pressure, the diaphragm isn't leaking. Then apply pressure to fuel inlet nipple to verify air can pass. Then apply vacuum to fuel inlet nipple to verify check valve works. Then repeat pressure/vacuum on the outlet nipple.

    The idea with the the fuel system check is to look for vacuum leaks in the fuel circuit. In the case of a small leak, the system can flow gas and not leak gas out, but air can in. This is because the supply line is under vacuum when the engine is running. In this test, you pressurize the whole circuit including the fuel tank. If you get a pressure drop, then you have a leak. Typical leak points are fuel selector valve and hose connections.

    The test clear line is spliced in before the fuel pump or right at the return. It only takes a short piece for you to observe the flow of gas. Regular clear vinyl will work long enough for the test. Polyurethane fuel line will last a long time. I have one on my sea doo so I can check it visually at anytime. Its been on for a year.

    Edit: The Kawasaki manual doesn't tell you how to test the pump, but the sea doo manual does. For the Mikuni carb, it says pressure test the pulse nipple to 4 PSI and it should hold for 10 seconds.
    I checked the old fuel pump. It doesn't hold pressure on any of the fittings. They all pump up but drop rapidly. It is tricky trying to seal the back side of the pump while testing the feed and return lines but I was able to hold my fingers on them tight enough to seal them.

    I also tested my new pump that is on the carb rack and they also don't hold pressure. They hold much longer than the old pump but it still drops. I put vacuum caps on both the feed and return and connected to the pulse line. I pumped it up to 6 psi and it drops. Much slower than the old pump but it still drops. I don't know if I am testing it properly.

  3. #833

    Join Date
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    I've just put mine on dry and haven't had a problem. If it was me, I'd put a little threebond crankcase sealant on the cracked area only. It your call though.

  4. #834

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Central Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I checked the old fuel pump. It doesn't hold pressure on any of the fittings. They all pump up but drop rapidly. It is tricky trying to seal the back side of the pump while testing the feed and return lines but I was able to hold my fingers on them tight enough to seal them.

    I also tested my new pump that is on the carb rack and they also don't hold pressure. They hold much longer than the old pump but it still drops. I put vacuum caps on both the feed and return and connected to the pulse line. I pumped it up to 6 psi and it drops. Much slower than the old pump but it still drops. I don't know if I am testing it properly.
    If it drops, its not sealing or the diaphragm has a hole. Check your mating surface on the cover you're re-using. Maybe put some soapy water on it to see if the cover is leaking. The pulse nipple test shouldn't matter if the inlet and outlets are capped.

  5. #835
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    If it drops, its not sealing or the diaphragm has a hole. Check your mating surface on the cover you're re-using. Maybe put some soapy water on it to see if the cover is leaking. The pulse nipple test shouldn't matter if the inlet and outlets are capped.
    I pumped it up to about 6 psi and coated the pump in soapy water. No leaks. I didn't put the cover on the new pump. Jet Ski Solutions installed it for me after bead blasting it. I assume they tested the pump before they sent it out to me. I don't think I should open it up.

  6. #836

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    Aug 2019
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    How long does it take to lose pressure? Maybe recheck all the connections on your tester and check valve. The pressure has to go somewhere. Check to see if its coming out the inlet or outlet nipple. If its installed onto the carbs already, it could be bleeding into the carbs.

  7. #837
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    How long does it take to lose pressure? Maybe recheck all the connections on your tester and check valve. The pressure has to go somewhere. Check to see if its coming out the inlet or outlet nipple. If its installed onto the carbs already, it could be bleeding into the carbs.
    I double checked my test gauge setup and there was a slight leak. I just tested the pulse line on the new pump again. It took about 80 seconds for it to drop from 4 psi to 3 psi.

    I also checked the inlet with the return capped and it held pressure for well over 10 seconds. As did the return with the inlet capped. I am going to assume the new pump is good. I definitely don't want to chance opening it up.
    Last edited by beekermartin; 09-15-2019 at 06:27 PM.

  8. #838

    Join Date
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    Central Florida
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    I agree. The new pump seems good. Did you ever put soapy water on the old pump to see where it was leaking?

  9. #839
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    I agree. The new pump seems good. Did you ever put soapy water on the old pump to see where it was leaking?
    I did. Testing the pulse line it held pressure for almost exactly the same amount of time as the new pump. Also there was no visible leaks on the exterior using soapy water.

    I have cleaned off the buildup in the pump housing so maybe that fixed it. Unfortunately I will never know if it leaked prior to me taking it apart.

  10. #840

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    Ok, since there's nothing published that I could find about these fuel pumps, I want to know the answers. I have two carb assemblies that I bench tested.
    One of them tested at 5 PSI on the pulse nipple and held with zero loss for 3 minutes. It may have held longer, but I figured 3 minutes was enough.

    The second one bled the pressure off at a rate of about 1 PSI over a minute or minute & half. I didn't time it because I saw it was bleeding a little. It finally stopped bleeding at 3 PSI and held for a little while before I unhooked it.
    Both tests were done with the inlet and outlet nipples open.
    Then... I applied vacuum with a mighty vac vacuum tester to the inlet nipple. It would not hold a vacuum.
    Then... I applied pressure to the outlet nipple. It would not hold pressure.
    The idea was to see if the check valves were holding.
    This was also done with the no caps on either the inlet or outlet. Although capping the inlet and outlet and holding pressure is important, I also want to test to see if the check valves hold.
    So... I am going to take off the fuel pump on one carb assembly, find a way to seal or loop the ports that connect to the carbs, and retest the inlet and outlet nipples. The screws were tight, so I sprayed some WD and I will try to get them out later. I'll post up what I find.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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