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  1. #751

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Central Florida
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    That should work, but if youre going to order it and wait for delivery, you might as well just order rubber sheet. You'll be able to re-use it over and over. I only suggested the gasket material as a quick solution that you can get at a local autoparts store if you didnt want to wait.
    Another thought on the test gauge set up... you might want to put an inline check valve between the tank valve (schrader) and the t-fitting. It will isolate the engine under pressure from your pump and the connection between the pump and schrader valve. It might work without it, but then again it may bleed back through the pump or leak at the connection.


  2. #752
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    That should work, but if youre going to order it and wait for delivery, you might as well just order rubber sheet. You'll be able to re-use it over and over. I only suggested the gasket material as a quick solution that you can get at a local autoparts store if you didnt want to wait.
    Another thought on the test gauge set up... you might want to put an inline check valve between the tank valve (schrader) and the t-fitting. It will isolate the engine under pressure from your pump and the connection between the pump and schrader valve. It might work without it, but then again it may bleed back through the pump or leak at the connection.
    Shouldn't the valve seal and not allow air to flow back out? When I remove the air pump from the valve some air could leak out. As long as it holds pressure after that though that should be fine. A check valve couldn't hurt though so when I remove the pump no air can leak out. That does make sense.

    How thick should the rubber sheet be?

  3. #753
    I decided to go with 1/16th rubber sheets. I will install the carbs and exhaust pipe to seal them. That should work well for the leak down test.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I also decided to get a check valve since I see how that could help.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

  4. #754

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Florida
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    That will work. You're almost there.

  5. #755
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    That will work. You're almost there.
    I am getting closer. I think I might cry if I find a leak.

  6. #756
    BTW, what is the best way to break it in? First start up? First water test? Since the engine is basically brand new I want to break it in properly.

  7. #757
    I found this in an old thread on a Sea-Doo forum. It seems a bit excessive but makes sense.


    New jet-ski buyers often have the first impulse of jumping on and hitting the throttle to enjoy their new equipment. However, to assure engine longevity and adequate performance for the life of your jet-ski engine, a proper break in period is required. Here are some tips that will assure that your new jet-ski will last for years at the performance level intended by the manufacturer. Always refer to the owner’s manual for brand-specific break-in period instructions. These break-in instructions are applicable to all jet-ski models except for 4 stroke models.

    None of the jet-ski engine break-in steps can be done with the jet-ski out of the water. This condition applies to all models of jet-skis. Jet-ski engines that are improperly broken in due to negligence or by attempting to break them in out of the water can experience loss of power, frequent shut-offs, reduced performance, piston ring failure, and even piston seizure.

    DI model jet-skis should not have any oil added to their fuel tanks.

    For jet-skis that utilize an oil and fuel pre-mix system, the oil to fuel ratio should be enriched to a ratio of 32:1 for the first ten gallons of gas that is run. If the jet-ski is equipped with an oil injection system, then a 50:1 ratio of fuel to oil is recommended to be run through for the first ten gallons.

    Upon initial startup, let the jet-ski idle for ten minutes to allow the engine to warm up and to allow oil to permeate internal gaskets and engine components. During the initial ten gallons of fuel being run through the jet-ski, the jet-ski should never be operated at full throttle. Doing so can potential cause damage to piston rings, pistons, and engine cylinder walls.

    Begin cycling the throttle from idle up to 20% capacity and back down to idle for a full half hour while riding. Bring the jet-ski back and shut off the engine to allow it cool for at least half an hour.

    Restart the jet-ski and bring the throttle to 50% capacity for a full half hour while riding. Bring the jet-ski back and shut off the engine to allow it to cool for at least half an hour.

    Restart the jet-ski and bring the throttle to 90% capacity for a full half hour while riding. Bring the jet-ski back and shut off the engine to allow it to cool for at least half and hour. Repeat the process of riding the jet-ski at 90% capacity for half an hour and letting it cool for half an hour until all ten gallons of fuel are gone.

    Never hold the throttle at a static level for more than a few seconds – it is important to cycle the throttle as much as possible during the engine break in period.

    After the first ten gallons have been depleted, replace the spark plugs in the jet-ski with new plugs. Restart the jet ski and operate it as you normally would for the entire second tank of gas without bringing the throttle to 100% capacity for more than five seconds at a time.

    Once the second tank of gas has been depleted, your jet-ski is broken in and you may ride it to its capacity.

  8. #758
    ok so ive baught an 02 and 03 was out in water on 02 and she just died started up went and died again at that point red light came on she seemed to have dead battery shortly after. would not start got it hom epulled plugs they were fouled put new she fires but wont run.there is a red light on dash witch i have no clue what its for my guages afre black please help.

  9. #759
    Sounds like you experienced a seizer, i would check your compression

  10. #760
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Sounds like you experienced a seizer, i would check your compression
    No tips for proper break in Turbo? I thought for sure you would have a recommendation?

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