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  1. #691
    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I might have missed it in the manual I have. PWC Engines said I could torque them down without any special tools. He said the tools are only needed to remove them. Your plywood trick seems interesting but I was hoping for something simpler. Like using a pry bar to hold the coupler while I torque the the other side.
    Prybar and a torque wrench is exactly what i do. Built many engines this way never had an issue with any of them

  2. #692
    steve45's Avatar
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    I made my own coupling tool out of 1/2" aluminum plate, but it took a couple of nights to get it right. You might see if SBT has one. If you have a Kawasaki dealer close by, take it to them to tighten.

  3. #693
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Prybar and a torque wrench is exactly what i do. Built many engines this way never had an issue with any of them
    So put the pry bar through the coupling while I torque down the magneto side bolt. That makes sense and should be safely done.

    How do I torque down the coupling though? Maybe torquing the magneto side while holding the coupling with a pry bar is tight enough for both sides since they are both turning in the same direction?


  4. #694
    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I installed the new fuel pump on the carbs. I had to repair two threads with helicoils. The corrosion damaged two of the threads. The pump is installed securely now. I then went to install the throttle position sensor and realized it is more complicated than I had anticipated. It appears I have to adjust it with the engine running. I will do that once I get to that point. For now is there a proper way to test is using a multimeter to know if the sensor is working? I doubt my problem was caused by the TPS but I want to test it anyways to make sure it is good. I will adjust it following the service manual directions once I have the motor running but it appears I need a special tool to do that. Nothing is easy with this ski.
    Any tips for the TPS? I tested it using a multimeter and there is a difference in ohms when the sensor is turned depending what terminals I am checking.

  5. #695

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Central Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    So put the pry bar through the coupling while I torque down the magneto side bolt. That makes sense and should be safely done.

    How do I torque down the coupling though? Maybe torquing the magneto side while holding the coupling with a pry bar is tight enough for both sides since they are both turning in the same direction?
    In theory, it should work. Also once the ski is ridden, the engine will apply more torque to it. But...you'll never know. I didn't want to chance it, so i splurged on the tool and made the plywood.
    I was thinking it could possibly unwind on deceleration. Not probable, but I didn't want to find out.

  6. #696
    I got the case back together last night. I am going to take it apart though to inspect how it looks. This is my first time doing this I want to see how the Three Bond looks. I put a very thin layer and smoothed it out with my finger and I'm curious if I did a good job. It doesn't take long to take it apart clean off the old Three Bond and reapply it. This way I know for sure I did it properly.

    I am going to bring the crank to work tomorrow and try to torque it down there. I think a pry bar on the coupler while tourqing down the other side should work out just fine. I am planning on calling PWC engines in the morning to get his advice though.

    The remaining two piston should be in by Tuesday. Hopefully I'll have it in the water by this weekend.

  7. #697
    Quote Originally Posted by FL_Rider View Post
    In theory, it should work. Also once the ski is ridden, the engine will apply more torque to it. But...you'll never know. I didn't want to chance it, so i splurged on the tool and made the plywood.
    I was thinking it could possibly unwind on deceleration. Not probable, but I didn't want to find out.
    It works, you have to be creative at times. Always put lock tight on the threads and you wont have an issue. Engine tightens during accel, i have many many hours on my skis already

  8. #698
    How does the Three Bond look? Does that look like the right amount?
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  9. #699
    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    How does the Three Bond look? Does that look like the right amount?
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    Edit: there is some Three Bond on the crankshaft and seals. Not a lot but some. I think I will apply a bit less the next time.

    Edit 2: I read the service manual again and it says to put the Three Bond on the bottom of the case. I believe I put it on the top half with the crank installed. Maybe that is why some got onto the seals and crank. I'll be sure to apply the Three Bond to the bottom half of the case when I reassemble it. I have the top of the case upside down sitting on a couple of pieces of wood with a gap in the middle so the crank rods can fit between. That way I can spin the crank as I'm tightening it down to verify nothing is bound up.
    Last edited by beekermartin; 08-25-2019 at 09:42 PM.

  10. #700
    I put a pry bar wrapped in a towel in the coupler to hold it. I then had my friend torque the bolt on the magneto side to 90 foot pounds. I think it is good to go.

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