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  1. #351
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Replace it with new not used

    Where are you guys getting these crazy prices from?


    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F192786985253
    I was just comparing prices to the Rhaas one for $175 and OEM. I didn't know if other aftermarket ones like WSM were ok to use. I'll search around some. I did find a few for less by a company called JSP Manufacturing. I don't know if they are any good or not.
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F251505886075


  2. #352
    I have put that wsm holder in atleast 5 ultras and 2 stxrs. They have worked fine, next i will purchase the rhass holder that one is top notch!

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  4. #353
    steve45's Avatar
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    It actually looks to me like the rubber is split in the vicinity of all 4 mounting holes. I may be wrong because I'm looking at a picture and you've got the real thing. Try pushing on the rubber from the engine side and see if any splits open up.

  5. #354
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    It actually looks to me like the rubber is split in the vicinity of all 4 mounting holes. I may be wrong because I'm looking at a picture and you've got the real thing. Try pushing on the rubber from the engine side and see if any splits open up.
    Regardless if it is or isn't cracked it is probably the original and should be replaced. I have finally gotten that through my stubborn head. I will order a new one. I hate to spend money on a part that might not be bad but since this part could fail without warning and flood the ski it makes sense to replace it now while the ski is completely apart.

    Now I need some reassembly advice:

    1. Should I install the pump or the driveshaft holder and driveshaft first? Does it matter?
    2. Should I apply some silicone on the back of the drive shaft holder?
    3. Can you please explain the proper procedure to "center" the drive line? I assume that has to be done once everything including the motor is installed?

    If there are any other tips or tricks I should know about for reassembly please let me know. I still need to buy a pump so it will be another week or so before I will be reassembling it. I might need help rebuilding the pump as well but that seems fairly self explanatory using the service manual. I've been looking on eBay and here but I haven't found one for a decent price yet. The one listed here shows a few of the vanes have chunks missing out of them in the new photos he posted. I don't know how much that matters but for $275 I think I can find one in much better condition. I can get a brand new housing for ~$270. I would still need a rebuild kit and reuse my shaft but that might be the way to go if I can't find one for a reasonable price.

  6. #355
    I found this one but it also has damage to the back of the vane guides. Does that matter much?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-20...kAAOSwB5pdE8fj
    It appears to have an aftermarket prop but I have no way of knowing if it is compatible with 1200.

  7. #356
    Didn't see this until I had already shipped out some parts he bought from me, I offered to send him one I had on a fresh water ski with 62 hours.I would of thrown it in the box I shipped out.

  8. #357
    I ended up winning an auction on eBay for a used pump: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F401791694684

    Hopefully it is decent enough to get me back in the water. I will rebuild it if needed of course. Hopefully it is good enough to allow me to test the motor out.

  9. #358
    When I receive the pump I will break it down to inspect the bearings and grease it. If the bearings are bad is the WSM pump rebuild kit any good? The bearings in my existing pump also feel fine. So I will have two pumps to take parts from. Am I better off just ordering the WSM kit now so I know the pump is 100%?

  10. #359
    steve45's Avatar
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    Install the pump first (grease the splines inside the pump). Slide the holder on the driveshaft (grease the seals in the holder) and slide that assembly into the hull. Do not bolt the holder down yet. Put the engine in and get it bolted in place. Put sealant on the backside of the holder, then put the screws in it. Snug the screws down, but not tight. Let the sealant cure for a day, then tighten the screws to full torque. This way, you don't squeeze the sealant out of it.

  11. #360
    Looks like a nice pump, yes i would go ahead and rebuild the pump regardless how the bearings feel. I fill my pumps with alittle gear oil to prolong the life.

    Instructions on installing carrier bearings.

    Put silicone on back side of holder and install loose, slide driveshaft in and reinstall engine. Leave engine loose and install pump. Torque pump down, with plugs out turn engine over by coupling by hand and torque one mount at a time. Visually inspect holder for alignment. Torque down holder.

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