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  1. #11
    Spark arrestor is mounted ontop of the carbs, there is nothing special about these engines concept is the same as any other internal combustion.


  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Spark arrestor is mounted ontop of the carbs, there is nothing special about these engines concept is the same as any other internal combustion.
    I imagine once I get familiar with it and get a few parts off it will all come into focus.

  3. #13
    steve45's Avatar
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    The flame arrestor is has the 1200 Triple label on it. It's a little unusual to remove, as it has 3 rubber rings that attach to the carburetor fittings, but only the front & rear have clamps on them. Loosen the clamps, remove the screws from the bracket by the 1200 Triple bracket, then you can twist & pull the assembly off. Take care not to damage the wire for the exhaust temp sensor.

  4. #14
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    get rid of the fuel filter, paper filters are a sign of hackage ( as is using a shock cord for mounting) and the engine will seize from fuel starvation if even a small amount of water gets into the fuel. paper filters are not rated for marine use. Kawasaki filters are nylon mesh and pricey ($35), but seldom need to be replaced. Most likely "somebody put a shitload of gumout into the fuel and ruined the OEM filter.

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  6. #15
    I removed the spark arrestor today. It wasn't easy because one screw that holds the top on is just spinning. I was able to get the top off enough to access the two clamps and finally get it off. Here is a shot of the the screw that is just spinning. I will get it out and replace the screw with a slightly larger one.

    I also found out that two screws that hold the top on are missing. Needless to say this has been apart before. Whoever put it back together forgot to install those two screws. It is the two in the center around the middle carburetor.

    Here is a some shots of the pump, lines and carbs. Does it look like the lines need to be replaced? How does everything else look overall? I don't see any signs of an oil leak. Can I start it with the spark arrestor off? If I can I should be able to see if the lines are leaking with the spark arrestor not blocking the view.


    I will replace the fuel filter. Should I get the stock Kawasaki part or is there an aftermarket option? A link would be great. I ordered plugs today as well.
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  7. #16
    Those oil lines are original replace them

    They removed those screws so its easier to fog. Every season i remove the correct way and pull the boots off the top of the carb then apply light grease to the carb top surface so its easy to remove every year. That skis has deff seen some salt water use

    I just use a regular high flow filter, replace every year. Never had a problem but i would recommend replacing all the fuel line, make sure timing on oil pump is correct and everything is secure.

    If you want to replace that spark arrester im sure i have a few of them ill let go for cheap.

  8. #17
    I was able to get the top off of the spark arrester. I can use a longer bolt and nut to secure it when I reinstall it but I realized something else. There is no actuall flame arrester inside! It is empty. On page 55 of the manual it shows a picture of what appears to be metal grates. Mine is lacking those. I assume those are important since the risk of a spark igniting the fumes in the bilge is a real possibility. Highly unlikely that would happen but since so much engineering has gone into designing a spark arrester I imagine it could happen.

    I'll send you a PM Turboman. Maybe picking up a replacement from you would be the best solution.

    What type and size oil line should I get? I assume it is your typical small engine fuel line but I want to make sure. I have checked through the manual but I can't seem to find the specs on the line. After I install the new lines what is the best way to prime it so the lines are full before start up? Fill the lines before connecting them to the carb? Crank it with the plugs removed until the lines are full?
    Last edited by beekermartin; 04-29-2019 at 10:58 AM.

  9. #18
    1/4 is fuel line 5/16 is return and 1/4 is oil lines. I use parts unlimited poly line.

    Yes there should be metal screens in arrester, its important not to mess with restriction on a stock set up intake for cv carbs.

    I premix tank and run on hose holding oil pump wide open.

  10. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    1/4 is fuel line 5/16 is return and 1/4 is oil lines. I use parts unlimited poly line.

    Yes there should be metal screens in arrester, its important not to mess with restriction on a stock set up intake for cv carbs.

    I premix tank and run on hose holding oil pump wide open.
    Is it ok to run it with the arrester off? That would make it a lot easier to visually see that the new lines are full of oil.

  11. #20
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beekermartin View Post
    I removed the spark arrestor today. It wasn't easy because one screw that holds the top on is just spinning. I was able to get the top off enough to access the two clamps and finally get it off. Here is a shot of the the screw that is just spinning. I will get it out and replace the screw with a slightly larger one.

    I also found out that two screws that hold the top on are missing. Needless to say this has been apart before. Whoever put it back together forgot to install those two screws. It is the two in the center around the middle carburetor.

    Here is a some shots of the pump, lines and carbs. Does it look like the lines need to be replaced? How does everything else look overall? I don't see any signs of an oil leak. Can I start it with the spark arrestor off? If I can I should be able to see if the lines are leaking with the spark arrestor not blocking the view.


    I will replace the fuel filter. Should I get the stock Kawasaki part or is there an aftermarket option? A link would be great. I ordered plugs today as well.
    to support the forum you can order practically any OEM part from the linkage at the top of the page. You'll also find the parts diagrams awfully handy.

    oh my damm, the oem filter price is now $53!

    you can typically find a good nylon mesh aftermarket filter for $20. Besides that the bracket that glues to the hull is also missing ( they always fall off) and then the rubber clip...

    too pricey unless you are doing a textbook restoration, and from the amount of rust I've seen, don't bother. You'll be spending plenty. Take note at kawasaki parts prices. you want to use great care to keep track of everything and take lots of pictures as you go along

    something like this doorman part can be found at a major auto parts store

    should be around $25 shipped. it'll do the job


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