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  1. #161
    Ultras and stxr have a huge following

  2. +1 by:


  3. #162

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Sedalia, MO
    Posts
    143
    +1
    16
    They're a great ski and fully capable of keeping up with just about every 4 stroke out there for a fraction of the price...IF you're willing to take care of it properly.

  4. #163
    I was having a very hard time getting the carbs back on. I couldn't get the screws to start. After a solid half hour of trying I finally figured out why. The water line that runs behind the carbs is held on with zip ties. I had removed it when I was running the new oil lines. When I attached the zip ties I had the connector part of the zip tie facing forward. The bracket on the carbs was hitting it not allowing the screws to line up properly. I was able to get the screws on carb 1 and 2 but I couldn't get the screws started on 3. I then moved the zip tie connector using a screwdriver. I scratched the bracket some but I was able to move it around and get the 3rd carb screws to thread on.

    Anyway, this is a tip for anyone that comes across this thread. Make sure the zip tie connectors aren't blocking the carb bracket. It was barely blocking it. The screws would feel like they were starting but nope. After I moved the zip tie connector out of the way the final two screws went right on.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #164
    I run them under the manifold

  6. #165
    I got it running on premix and let it run for a few minutes at idle with the oil pump held wide open. I revved it a few times and it seemed to be fine. It didn't idle as smoothly as before I removed the carbs but that could just be air in the line or maybe I have the idle set too low. It did rev up fine. I will probably run it a few more minutes tonight then remove the spark arrester to verify the lines are full with no air bubbles. If they are I assume I can then attach the lines from the ski fuel tank and get those lines primed. Hopefully it doesn't take very long cranking times to get the fuel lines primed.

    Any tips for tightening the clamps on the spark arrester? It is easy to do if I remove the top of the spark arrester. The problem with that is when I reinstall the top of the spark arrester it is very difficult to install the two hidden screws without dropping them into the hull. I can situate the clamp on the 3rd carb so I can tighten it easily through the opening behind the main hull opening. The one on the 1st carb I don't see a way to get to with the top of the spark arrester installed.
    Last edited by beekermartin; 05-21-2019 at 11:33 AM.

  7. #166
    Just a short screw driver or a socket on a screw driver handle

  8. #167
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    Just a short screw driver or a socket on a screw driver handle
    I'll play around with it more tonight. Maybe there is a way I can situate the 1st carb clamp so I can access the screw with the top on. At first glance I didn't see a way. To be honest the clamps almost seem unnecessary. The spark arrester seals around the carbs fit very tightly even without the clamps installed. The bracket on top also prevents it from coming off. I will do my best to install the clamps but again I doubt they are really necessary. Either that or I'll install the clamps with the top off and not use the two hidden screws that hold the top on. I've already dropped the hidden screws a few times and it isn't fun finding them in the hull. The screws are stainless so a magnet doesn't help to dig them out.

  9. #168
    I am kinda lost on how you are installing these arresters.

    I install as one complete assembly

    Use grease on top of carb where boots slide on

    Push down hard look on sides make sure fully seated.

    Install two bolts on bracket

    Reach to sides tighten clamps on rubber boots


    Theres ALOT of room to do this in an stxr, you can atleast see what your doing. Try it in an ultra and your doing it completely blind


  10. #169
    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    I am kinda lost on how you are installing these arresters.

    I install as one complete assembly

    Use grease on top of carb where boots slide on

    Push down hard look on sides make sure fully seated.

    Install two bolts on bracket

    Reach to sides tighten clamps on rubber boots


    Theres ALOT of room to do this in an stxr, you can atleast see what your doing. Try it in an ultra and your doing it completely blind
    You are right. I was able to figure it out. I was confused because when I took off the spark arrester the screws on the clamps were facing inside. There was no way to access them without removing the top of the arrester. Now that I have clamps facing outside I was able to reach them easily enough. The two hidden screws for the top of the arrester were missing so I assume that is why the previous owner had the clamps facing inwards. Without those screws installed it is easy to remove the top of the arrester and access the clamps. Doing it the proper way is a bit more difficult but not terribly so.

    Anyway, oil lines all appear to be primed. I don't see any air bubbles. I connected the fuel lines from the ski tank and started it up. I only let it run for a few seconds for now. The gas tank is fairly low Should I run a few gallons of premix in the tank just in case the oil lines aren't fully primed?

  11. #170
    I took some photos and I found an air bubble in the line that goes to the rear of the motor. The rest of the oil lines appear to be all clear. I am thinking running a few gallons of premix in the tank is a good idea. If you zoom in on the photo you can see the air bubble near the zip tie.
    Click image for larger version. 

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