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  1. #1

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    2000 Polaris Genesis FFI oil flow test

    I discovered a burned up #2 piston, it was severely damaged on the exhaust side. In the process of replacing & want to confirm I'm getting adequate oil flow to the #2 intake to rule that out as source. Engine is in the ski, top end is removed. Thought I might spin the oil pump manually and see if oil dribbles out the hose end? Engine has only about 100 hours on it. It's got used plugs, correct ones for this engine by the way. Numbers 1 & 3 cylinders are clean.
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  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
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    It can't hurt anything to run your test. You may want to check the fuel pressure, as that is a more likely culprit. The fuel pressure regulator is notorious for falling off (the metal hose nipple works loose from the nylon head piece it is pressed into) inside the fuel tank. When this occurs, fuel pressure falls to almost zero, resulting in a lean mixture. You can activate the fuel pump by disconnecting the large 40 pin connector from the EMM and grounding pin 40 (brown wire). Normal fuel pressure is 25 psi. If the pressure is low, pinch off the return line, between the Schrader valve and the fuel tank. If the pressure jumps to near 30 psi, the regulator has fallen off inside the tank.

    See this thread on how to repair/reinforce the fuel pressure regulator. This should be done regardless on all Direct Injected watercraft.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Make sure you spin the oil pump in the correction direction.

  4. #4

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    Looking forward that's rotating the drive shaft counterclockwise, correct? Looking into the jet pump, the spiral prop on shaft needs to turn counterclockwise if it's going to drive water out the rear.

  5. #5

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    I can't prove that oil is or is not being pumped from reservoir to intake. The cylinders have been reinstalled but the heads are still off the engine. Oil is in the res. and flow to oil pump inlet is clear. I checked it by removing the tube at inlet and holding the end below the tank, gravity drips oil. I reconnected that tube end and removed all three oil tubes end at the check valves in the side of the intake. By hand, I'm rotating drive shaft CCW hoping to see oil at least begin to drip from the tube ends. Maybe I just can't generate enough RPM. I even removed #2 oil tube exiting oil pump and rotated engine, nothing. Reading service manual, I will bleed the oil pump via the screw in image attached. I had drained oil res. before my rebuild started and undoubtedly got air in the system since refilling the oil res. Might be cause that oil isn't dripping.
    I'd rather not put everything back together and fire it up to confirm oil flows. I saw a video of this type engine with battery clipped to the starter and engine block to ground on a work bench to turn the engine and show pistons were not seized. Would a sane guy do this in order to generate RPMs enough to push oil through? My mixture may still be lean on piston #2 (that MIGHT have caused that piston to burn) but once I prove oil is flowing then I'll work on any lean fuel issues if there.
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  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    The oil pump moves oil very slowly.

    At a nominal 40:1 ratio (wide open throttle position) it would pump 1 liter of oil for every 40 liters of fuel. At idle postion the pumping ratio might be closer to 100:1 which would be less than 1 liter of oil pumped per an entire tank of fuel.

    These engines do not consume oil at a high rates even at wide open, and certainly not at low RPM. The oil pump is there to replace oil mist drawn from the crankcase via air flow up into the combustion chamber. At lowish RPM there just isn't much violence in the air flow to drag the oil droplets upwards into the cylinder ports.

    If you have dribbled a bit of oil down each throttle air intake, you can safely run the engine without the oil lines connected. And monitor the oil pump for flow.

    Note there is an air bleed screw right on the oil pump. Bright silver plated IIRC. Loosen that screw and watch for oil to seep out, then retighten the bleed screw.

    BTW, if you have not done so already, replace the OEM inline oil filter. They can get clogged over time. We have seen fresh engines ruined by not replacing the old oil filter. Install a new genuine Polaris oil filter.

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  8. #7
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    BTW, if you have not done so already, replace the OEM inline oil filter. They can get clogged over time. We have seen fresh engines ruined by not replacing the old oil filter. Install a new genuine Polaris oil filter.
    In my observations, backflushing the OEM filter with carb cleaner (or similar) results in a satisfactory cleaning of the OEM oil filter. (It's not really a filter element in there, but rather more like a screen...)

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  10. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiPeRcO View Post
    In my observations, backflushing the OEM filter with carb cleaner (or similar) results in a satisfactory cleaning of the OEM oil filter. (It's not really a filter element in there, but rather more like a screen...)
    That can work.

    I will suggest inspection of the cleaned inline oil filter’s internal screen to verify it is actually clean and not damaged.

  11. #9
    martincom's Avatar
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    A new filter is cheap insurance. Consider what is at risk.

  12. #10

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    Thanks all y'all. I did open the oil pump bleed screw and oil did flow. I'll stop wasting time trying to manually get oil to flow out of the pump based on K447's great explanation above. I'll either backflush or buy a new inline OEM oil filter for sure.

    I still have to see if #2 cylinder is running lean. According to service manual, that's the primary cause for what I experienced; a burned piston head on the exhaust side. I figured I'd try to confirm #2 was getting oil at the intake in the process. Again, thanks!

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