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  1. #11
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Pinellas County PWC Shop

    Quote Originally Posted by Tampa stx View Post
    I havent tried the manual engine crank yet. Are there Service Pros who we can send the entrie jet pump unit to for this kind of rebuild? Do I have to do a whole "Pump Exchange" with SBT for $400 (link) ? BTW I live not far from SBT in Clearwater.
    ---------------------------------------------
    1. Be VERY careful about rotating the engine using teh starter motor - with the driveshaft still attached to the engine coupler. It is a real FAST way to RUIN the thru-hull bearing and seal assembly - which could lead to sinking of your machine. My recommendation is to remove the spark plugs and try to rotate the engine by hand using a wrench or whatever you can get a hold of at the rear section of the engine output area - to be certain your ENGINE is not locked-up.

    2. SBT Pump Bearings are not the best. Sure they will probably work - yet if you seek longevity - use the OEM Kawasaki bearings and seals.

    3. I pulled my riding buddy's pump off for him and he had this guy put all new Kawasaki stuff in it for him. He dropped it off and picked it up a couple of days later - and we were out "Blasting" the next weekend.

    This is the guy my riding buddy used here:
    ---------------------------------
    Leading Edge Watercraft Services

    6675 102nd Ave N # C, Pinellas Park, FL 33782
    (727) 547-9300
    http://www.lepwc.com/
    ---------------------------------
    He told me the guy he knows = Brian

    I never had any dealings with them - as most of the stuff I did with my Kawasaki Jet-Ski's - over the many years - I always done independently - without the need for external Service Support.

    Good Luck !!!


  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Spooling View Post
    ---------------------------------------------
    1. Be VERY careful about rotating the engine using teh starter motor - with the driveshaft still attached to the engine coupler. It is a real FAST way to RUIN the thru-hull bearing and seal assembly......

    Good Luck !!!
    Thanks for that!

  3. #13
    Yeah the vane guides include a liner. I believe Kawasaki do not believe the liner is a "serviceable" part and they just expect you to replace the whole unit. There was another member on here who discussed about it and also made a tutorial how to replace the liner.

  4. #14

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    Kawasaki does not sell replacement wear rings (liners). However, there is a seller on ebay that makes and sells replacement wear rings. It's not that difficult to remove the old one and install the new one. I'm currently running a re-lined pump on my 15F with no issues. To help prolong the life of the pump, I coated the pump with silicone before installing the liner. That should prevent salt from building up between the layers. Worst case scenario is that I wasted some silicone.

    The easiest way to prevent your motor from starting is to disconnect the fuel pump. Remove the glove box and simply unplug the white connector from the top of the fuel pump. It's usually tough to get the connectors off of the fuel injectors, especially if they've never been disconnected before. It's sometimes necessary to remove the fuel rail to be able to disconnect them... way too much work to stop fuel flow. I'm not a big fan of cranking a motor with the fuel pump running and the plugs removed. Fuel/air mist will shoot out of the spark plug holes... and it is flammable. I also don't recommend cranking the motor with the plugs in and spark disabled. The unburned fuel will find its way into the exhaust... and can cause a nasty backfire when you actually start the motor.

    Buy a Kawasaki impeller tool to remove the impeller. With the right tool, it will come off pretty easily.

    Running the motor with the pump out will damage the shaft bearing seal. However, if you just need to crank the motor to see that it is not seized, a quick bump of the start button won't push the shaft into the seal. If you want to be extra cautious, just put something like a block of wood behind the coupling to prevent the shaft from moving back. I wouldn't recommend doing this if you plan to start and run the motor... only if you want to crank it a few times.

    There was an upgrade to the Ultra 250/260 jet pump that added and extra bearing. Because of the power of the S/C motor, when the single bearing went bad, it would thrust the drive shaft into the crankshaft, and cause damage to the motor. Just looked at the Kawi parts diagram and it looks like they also upgraded the 15F pump. It just requires getting the new impeller shaft and an extra bearing. You can install the double-bearing setup into an older pump vane.
    Last edited by grumpy_steven; 04-21-2019 at 06:46 PM.

  5. #15
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    After reading this I believe your best route, and safest, would be to buy a new pump housing. Unless there is no wear internally where the bearings seat against the interior surfaces. You can try replacing the liner and the bearings. Chances are the impeller is fine and tolerances will be good once you have a new liner in there. Use Kawasaki OEM replacement bearings and seals. Not the cheap Ebay ones. Good Bel Rey or Maxima water proof grease as well.
    Hope it goes well.

  6. #16

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    Pretty simple actually. Here you go. Step by step. Let me know if you have questions.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=247134

  7. #17
    TJS0712F....thanks for the direction....I would have to learn a new language and buy a bunch of tools I know nothing about to try that.
    First I'm taking the jet pump unit to Leading Edge Watercraft Services tomorrow and they will assess a rebuild or replacement. This work is out of my ability and tool stock.

  8. #18
    THE PLATE MAN JIM'S PERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    sounds like a impeller liner swollen. no still in business had issues with phone line do to storm Friday phone back in service.

  9. #19
    Jim do you service and repair pwc's? Or only specific performance work?

  10. #20
    continued here

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