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  1. #21
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dxg2757 View Post
    Does anyone know the year range of engines that will work as a direct swap? I live an hour away from copart and we just had major flooding that totaled a lot of boats, so I am keeping my eye out for another 12f or 15f that only has hull damage to bid on and possibly take the heart out of to put into my good hull. I am building an overhead lift to help pull out the engine and possibly tear it down myself or take it to a shop (haven't spoken to Smokeyseven yet, but I am driving through Houston in two weeks) but I can't seem to find a mechanic to do engine work on a ski older than 10 years. Some shops outright refused, others said that their computers don't communicate with this ECU. I don't see the need for a computer diagnostic when a compression test and leakdown will show everything that you need to know.
    They used the 1200 engine from 2003-2007.

  2. #22
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    You are correct that you would mechanically want to get the engine and all else good then if there are further issues diagnostics then come into play. There is no need at this point to run a KDI at a dealer and more than likely once the mechanics are sorted we can figure anything else out on here.

  3. #23
    I have half way talked myself into dropping a new/ rebuilt engine into this money pit and enjoying my summer rather than tearing it down and rebuilding myself. What kind of options are out there for rebuilders for my core, or rebuilt engines that can be purchased? All I seem to find is SBT, and they have some negative reviews but seem to have a lot more engines out there. I am in the San Antonio area, but can travel or ship if need be.

    I am not looking for an insane performance machine, just a reliable weekend runaround for the local lakes to get rid of the stress from work and enjoy being back out on the water.

  4. #24
    steve45's Avatar
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    It sounded like you were preparing to do it yourself. I really think you need to look at the condition of the cylinder(s) before deciding what to do.

    That said, here's one not too far from you: https://austin.craigslist.org/boa/d/...877824488.html

    This one is more expensive, but it's a -15F. 40 more HP and 87 octane gas. It's from Corpus Christi, so it's probably spent a lot of time in salt water. https://corpuschristi.craigslist.org...854141362.html

    Or this: https://houston.craigslist.org/boa/d...875268828.html

    Of course, I understand that you may not want to spend that much money right now. However, if you buy one, odds are that you can sell it for nearly what you paid for it after you get yours running. OR, sell yours and keep the other one.

  5. #25
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dxg2757 View Post
    I have half way talked myself into dropping a new/ rebuilt engine into this money pit and enjoying my summer rather than tearing it down and rebuilding myself. What kind of options are out there for rebuilders for my core, or rebuilt engines that can be purchased? All I seem to find is SBT, and they have some negative reviews but seem to have a lot more engines out there. I am in the San Antonio area, but can travel or ship if need be.

    I am not looking for an insane performance machine, just a reliable weekend runaround for the local lakes to get rid of the stress from work and enjoy being back out on the water.
    I wouldn't spend a cent on a 12f

    go spend your money on something worthy of it , Find a good 15f and be happy enjoying years ahead of you.

    The 12f 's are too old and no value to drop an engine in 1

    Waz

  6. #26
    After debating for a week I decided to tear down the ski myself since I already own it and there is no way I will get hardly anything back out of it if I were to sell it with a known issue. I have the intake and exhaust manifolds out, all of the electrical disconnected, and 3 of the 4 motor mounts loosened (I am built like a Sasquatch, my hands don't fit in the tiny spaces with only enough room to turn the ratchet 1/16'" on each stroke....) Is there anything I need to watch out for like the drive coupler alignment, motor mount positioning? Also, are there any threads on taking the head, timing chain and such off? (and back on the proper way) I have the service manual, but I am much more confident in my work if I have seen a video or another users write up on what to watch out for.

    I am hoping that I will be able to pull the head off and just replace the piston and rings in cylinder #4, but when I pulled the intake manifold I drained about 1/3 of a cup of used engine oil out of the plug, and the exhaust coupling from the manifold to the first water box was full of oily carbon build up. I have a feeling that this ski was showing some signs of trouble while the previous owner had it and he dumped the bucket of problems into my driveway.
    Last edited by dxg2757; 05-22-2019 at 02:42 AM. Reason: can't type to save my life.

  7. #27
    Pacer's Avatar
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    Yes. The previous owner knew it was burning oil. You have a cracked piston. You need to pull the whole motor. Its damn near impossible to drop that cylinder back on with the bottom end still in the hull. You can do the work yourself. Buy a service manual on a CD or download it. Or sell the ski at a discount, buy something that runs and move on.


  8. #28
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirbreaksalot View Post
    I wouldn't spend a cent on a 12f

    go spend your money on something worthy of it , Find a good 15f and be happy enjoying years ahead of you.

    The 12f 's are too old and no value to drop an engine in 1

    Waz
    15 is better but my 12 is a great ski and can sell it for 4K easy. Must be the water down there ... lol

  9. #29
    I finally got the time to tear down the engine and to my surprise the Cylinders are perfect and still have the cross hatching from the factory, but the pistons tell a different story. As I had suspected Piston #4 was cracked right at the intake valve causing the rings to stick and allow the blowby and low compression. What I did not expect was Cylinder #1 is also cracked in the exact same place, and the broken piece is the exact same size. The broken pieces were still holding on to the piston and did nothing more than damage the rings and cause an intermittent performance drop with smoke. Did Kawasaki have a bad batch of pistons or did I get incredibly lucky to have two break and not destroy the cylinder?

    As I was inspecting the head I turned the head on it's side without thinking and a few of the valve buckets, so I will need to check to make sure that I got them back to their appropriate home.

    I will be ordering 4 new pistons, rings, and gaskets for reassembly, but is there anything else I should take a look at or replace while I have everything spread out in my shed? I will be cleaning the entire intake and exhaust to remove the oil and carbon buildup, but other than that everything looks normal.

  10. #30
    Pacer's Avatar
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    The buckets are interchangeable. The shins underneath them are what sets the valve clearance. If the shims stayed in place on top of the valves you are ok.

    Good move pulling it yourself. Youd spend more than its worth at a shop.

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