Just bought a 2000 Seadoo GTI 717-oil injection and gauge questions

[RG5384]

Good Afternoon All,

I just purchased a new to me Seadoo GTI with the rotax 717. The ski runs amazing, and is a total blast to ride. That being said, like most older items, it has some issues that I'm hoping to sort out.

1. Neither of the gauges work. This has the older style mechanical fuel gauge and speedometer. When I bought it the needle had fallen off the gas gauge, so I took that apart and secured the needle back on in hopes that was the only problem-it wasn't(curse those aluminum retaining rings on the gauges!). I've read about the fuel baffle and will be trying that next, but since the speedometer is out too I'm wondering if I'm barking up the wrong tree. The speedometer jumps to about 15mph anytime the key is put on. The speed wheel is still attached but one of the attachment points is cracked so it's only being held on by one. In all honesty I really don't care about the speedometer, but a working gas gauge would be nice. I'd even settle for a cap that had a gauge built in if anyone knows where to get one of those that would fit and work well?

2. The previous owner removed the oil injection system, and I would like to add this back in. Pre-mixing is a pain, wastes oil, and from what i've read the system is bulletproof on these rotax 717's so there is really no reason to delete it. The two big hoses are still connected with oil in them, and there is oil in the reservoir, but the smaller hose has been cut and capped off. Also there is a connector coming off of the oil tank that has two blue wires, it is disconnected and for the life of me I can't find where this is supposed to plug in. The oil light is on in the dash.

3. There is a compartment in the rear of the ski that looks like it has the main power lines as well as perhaps a solenoid mounted to it. The cover is missing to this piece and it looks like something I should be trying to protect from salt spray. Any idea where I can find a replacement cover?

4. The retaining bolt for the throttle cable(on the carb side so to speak) is gummed up and will not thread back on. I had no issues with it out on the water and in fact just noticed it afterwards. For now I just put a big zip tie around it to help keep it in place, anyone see any issues with that setup?

As part of this package I also picked up a 2001 XLT800, That ski has more issues than this one and I've posted about them over in the yamaha forum.

Appreciate any advice/input you can provide!

Thanks,

[Myself]

1..Go ahead and order a fuel float, I think all the carbed 2 strokes use the same one. They are usually at least half logged with fuel and they sink. Pull out the "glovebox" and you'll have direct access to the sender. Full to Empty is 0 to 90 ohms. If you ohm out nothing then the baffle needs cut open and the F1 fuse soldered across to make it work again. There is a how-to floating around for that but if you can't find it I can tell you how.

2..If the pump is still there hook it back up. The wires for the oil float switch normally run to the left side of the hull and there should be black connector right there with the connector for the fuel sender.

3..Rear electrical box cover has 3 tabs and an o'ring style gasket. Can be found on ebay or from Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports. Those guys have any Seadoo part you might ever need.

4..The throttle cable slips through a slot in the mounting bracket, then the threaded cable end just pops in. A nut holds it in adjustment on the other side. I would wire brush those threads and put some penetrant on there or something. No need on chancing a catastrophe.

[RG5384]

Thanks Myself(wow...that sounds weird..ha). I'll look into all of those.

[Myself]

While you're at it check to see if you still have grey colored fuel lines, they cause big headaches.

[RG5384]

While you're at it check to see if you still have grey colored fuel lines, they cause big headaches.

It looks like all the fuel lines but one have been changed out, but they left one gray one in there. The main fuel feed has been changed, so that's good news.

I took a look at the fuel baffle, but rather than getting out the mulitmeter I just jumped the two pins into the gauge and it read full, so I was at least able to successfully fix the gauge so far! I'll pull the baffle out and check that F1 fuse once I have the Yamaha up and running.

Huge thanks for connecting me with westside power sports. Those guys are fast to respond and very knowledgeable. I have a cover on the way now and am working with them on a used oil injection pump. With the price of that synthetic oil, the need to lubricate the rotary valve, and the lack of substantial failures I can't understand why so many people swap those out.

[ShortbusDevil]

1. I'm getting my gauges replaced as well. Makes no sense (IMHO) to completely restore a ski and leave dead gauges on it. (You can pull the float and check with OHM meter, there is a baffle repair thread in the stickies.
2. Oil Injection- If you ask 10 people you will 10 different answers. The factory oil systems are great, I premix on my ski...I dont have good luck, and I will be the guy that it fails on going 50mph and eats my 951 instantly. Its a personal choice, I choose to waste some oil and never have to worry about oil starvation. I have pre-mixed all my 2-strokes (motos, outboards) Im used to it.
3. Jess @ Westside...yes replace it.
4. Jess @ Westside...yes replace it.

I can't say enough good things about Westside, they get my business first. Awesome turn around on my MPEM.

[water worx]

Here is how I check to see if the fuel baffle is bad...

Push start/stop button without the lanyard on & watch the fuel gauge.....if its a dial gauge & the needle moves then the baffle is still good & just needs a float.

If the needle does not move the fuel baffle is bad.

If its a "bar" style gauge & when you push the start/stop button & one bar comes up the you just need a float....no bar then the baffle is bad.

You can disconnect the fuel baffle & jump the pink/black wire going to the gauge & push the start/stop button & the gauge should read full to verify the gauge is good.

[RG5384]

Here is how I check to see if the fuel baffle is bad...

Push start/stop button without the lanyard on & watch the fuel gauge.....if its a dial gauge & the needle moves then the baffle is still good & just needs a float.

If the needle does not move the fuel baffle is bad.

If its a "bar" style gauge & when you push the start/stop button & one bar comes up the you just need a float....no bar then the baffle is bad.

You can disconnect the fuel baffle & jump the pink/black wire going to the gauge & push the start/stop button & the gauge should read full to verify the gauge is good.

Thanks! I have confirmed that the baffle is bad. I can't seem to find a "how to" in order to remove it from this particular ski, so that will be a weekend endeavor figuring that out.

The speedometer still has me puzzled, I unplugged the speed sensor and the gauge still did the same thing-read 15mph. It has to be getting an input from somewhere in order to do this I would think, or i've just got a bad gauge. When I pulled it apart I didn't notice anything burnt or weird, but it did smell kinda funky. This is the last on my list of all the things that I need to do though, so this will be a next winter project. I'm anxious to get these things back on the water!

[water worx]

Take the glove box out to access the fuel baffle.

[RG5384]

Thanks guys, went ahead and just ordered a new oem baffle. Ski started to cut off today until we switched it to reserve, still had 2/3 of a tank of gas left. Ran perfect aside from that. Figure something is going on with it mechanically as well as electrically, so bit the bullet for $200. Will see what happens.