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  1. #41
    mittens's Avatar
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    Got coupler and midnshaft pressed out as one peace.

    pulled seals and C Clips (to re use C clips), and removed one alignment pin, and greas nipple. One alignment pin is now smashed.. oh well. Don’t see that being a issue as the 3 bolts align it anyway, and will have one pin as well. Just need shipping to catch up.

    sorry for all the questions but appetitive the answers.

  2. #42
    mittens's Avatar
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    Ok, ski is back together and ready to test...

    hand packed bearing with marine quicksilver grease, and loaded it on both sides heavy before pressing In each oil seal, then squirted more in the gap, backcside loaded gap between inner seal and outer. Then filled that gap too. Then pressed mid shaft in. To spec same as seals. Then pressed the thrust washer on.

    I did have one point about that the thrust washer is pressed on shaft so it spinning at rpm speed... and the outer seal with the rubber lip to ride on thrust washer is stationary.. to that rubber on metal thrust is only lubed by, I assume water. That’s all outside the greased area.. seams like a lot off friction.. especially out of the water for long.

    i had no shims in-between the IM housing and the wall. So bolted and torqued down, slide pump shaft and prop in with no issues bolted right up. Then pushed motor in place and installed shims one each. And torqued down... test fired it while I could see coupler and looked smooth and no metal contact.. so buttoned everything else back up. Only things I removed was riva intake off the charger,(room to go forward before hitting gas tank, and the u pipe on fizzle to charger this allowed working room to front motor mount bolt on that side, and electronics box off the wall, and to batter everything else stars connected.. header and water box I left connected and just un did it from the throng hull pipping.

    for anyone reading this it, it was no wear near as bad as I though it would be. That is assuming it works...


  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by mittens View Post
    Ok, ski is back together and ready to test...

    ...for anyone reading this it, it was no wear near as bad as I though it would be. That is assuming it works...

    Did everything work ok when you put it back? I am in the process of doing this job right now. I had the exact same concern about the thrust washer and was searching all over the place for information when I stumbled onto this thread. Thanks!

  4. #44
    mittens's Avatar
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    Yes. once I fixed this on that ski my leaks stopped. never had a issue, ran it for a season and then I sold it once I bought this SVHO I have now.

  5. #45
    I’m taking in water by the gallons straight up.. for sure coming out of the mid shaft bearing housing or seals, worth buying an eBay assembly already put together and load with grease, or buy the $50 bearing rebuild kit? How annoying is it to do

  6. #46
    mittens's Avatar
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    If you have a press, its not hard. just snap rings, and 2 bearins, and 3 seals.

  7. #47
    Yeah I have a press I’ll give it a try and buy all of the parts separately on boats.net or Yamahapartswarehouse, do you know the spec for how far to press the shaft back into the housing?

  8. #48
    mittens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dank0304 View Post
    Yeah I have a press I’ll give it a try and buy all of the parts separately on boats.net or Yamahapartswarehouse, do you know the spec for how far to press the shaft back into the housing?
    i found it online in the service manual. Shows the depths of all the seals

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  10. #49

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    There’s a vendor on eBay selling fully assembled mid shaft housings for about $200 and that’s the route I went. My housing itself was bad due to the rubber pulling away from the metal so the entire thing was scrap. I purchased a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight (always wanted one anyway) and pressed a new mid shaft into the assembly.

    The only thing that was confusing was the thrust washer. My advice is to use a very large socket (like a 32mm, deep well) to press the thrust washer on as the very last step. The factory service manual shows the proper depths for everything but the images can be a bit tough to follow due to them being simple line art drawings.

    On a side note, I have a 2016 FZS that is pretty much stock and this failure occurred at about 47 hours. I am 99% sure that the failure occurred due to contact between the PTO couplers. When I took everything apart, I noticed that the couplers where pressed directly against each other. When I pulled the rear coupler out I could see that the metal was being chewed up. I am not exactly sure how this happened since it was all factory assembled but I am going to keep an eye on it from now on.


  11. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by mittens View Post
    Yes. once I fixed this on that ski my leaks stopped. never had a issue, ran it for a season and then I sold it once I bought this SVHO I have now.
    Thanks! That gives me a lot of hope for my repair!

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