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  1. #31
    mittens's Avatar
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    Good deal on the fizzle, just pulled their installation instructions up too looks to be the case. Hopefully will move with motor.

    Motor shimming... the holes are not slots.. so the 4 points are not adjustable.... so if you kept each shim stack together and labeled where it came from could you not just bolt it back up and it be aligned?

  2. #32
    mittens's Avatar
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    Ok so got pump out, battery, removed electric is box up and the cover.

    looks like itís pushing out the one side. And grass coming out the other side...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #33
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    Motor intactClick image for larger version. 

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  4. #34
    mittens's Avatar
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    Does not look like you used a hoist? Just unbolted and man handled it backcwards some? I have a Riva intake itís basicly against the gas tank, so will remove that but intercoooer and charger will leave.

    awesome I hope itís as easy as itís looking..

  5. #35
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    Yeah I did use the Hoist I just lowered it back down after I moved it and unhooked it from the hoist to get it out of my way


  6. #36
    mittens's Avatar
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    Ok it’s out.. was not bad really. Who knows how going back will be. I only had one shine in all 4 mounts.... good? Bad? Or what? They all are the same thick ness as well. My plan was put them back where they came from. I did remove the fizzle U pipe that helped a lot for the front right mount.

    Rubber coupler is in good shape.

    The shaft and bearing can just move all around in the housing... can push on it and separate thenout side to the rubber...

    so here is a pic and a video... new seals and bearing (it’s not a sealed bearing like some say) showed up so need one more seal and the new housing.. and we will try and press shaft and asseble.


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #37
    superair's Avatar
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    Don't forget to pull the line up pins from the old housing.

  8. #38
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    Yeah, in that 1st pic, the rubber should not be separating like that - its done for sure. You can even see on the housing where the rubber's lip sits recessed that the housing oxidation/swelling pretty much distorts the seal seat - hence leaks.

    As far as the bearing, correct - not sealed - basically it needs open-access to the grease cavity within the housing.

    When you go to press the shaft into the new housing, it goes without saying that you'll want to support that inner (metal) housing body ring. There... I said it.

    Shimming is very ski-specific, so just put them all back where they were.
    Tip: I like to attach some blue tape on the non-forked side of the shim, because when you have the motor resting back on the mounts, and you go to muscle the motor into final alignment, the shims are easy to slide back out.

  9. #39
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    From what I can tell the grease cavity or at least where the hose goes is only between the first and second rear seal. It does not grease the bearing. I agree about the support of the inner metal being supported.

  10. #40
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    Rodger that, swap alignment pins

    i plan to hook up hose and pump grease from my zerK fitting, through hose, and into housing..so I know the whole system is loaded...then

    install rear C clip-
    Pack and then Press bearing into rear c clip from the front (supporting the inner housing wear the friction is, not the outside housing stressing the rubber...
    Then put other c clip in,
    add grease and install front seal.
    and grease between seals will fill and expand out the center with no shaft.. It can squirt out Leaving it full.
    Add greas to rear,
    press first rear seal. (Same with grease coming out middle.
    add grease, press second rear seal...
    Then press shaft through front seal-bearing-back seal 1-back seal 2, and stop at 46mm sticking out the back... (only question is how to support inner race/bearing/inner housing with out damaging rear seals?)

    then install rear thrust washer on shaft

    Then install back into ski and attach pump/prop shaft and pump as well before snugging bolts to make sure they are aligned... then re install motor

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