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  1. #1
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Good Advice regarding a bilge pump.

    Well brand new SXR1500 only has about 7 hrs. My brother was riding it, he is an experienced rider. We been having skis for over 12 years. Long story short. One of the cooling lines leading to the pisser came off. It was just snug around the fitting. He was just having a blast cutting turns and all and never noticed the pisser quit pissing. The engine bay was getting full of water quick! Engine died and we towed him back to shore. Full of water. No water in the oil, removed the spark plugs and only one was wet. The one next to the pto. Engine was locked up. Took it all apart and found that rod broke and slapped a good dent onto the cilinder sleeve. Non fixable. I ended buying some new jugs, piston and new rod. In the process of putting her back together.

    My advice is to yes put a bilge pump on any ski. I have had many skis and the first thing I ever done is put a bilge pump. I guess we were just too excited and only had it out a couple days and should have waited for it to arrive.

    We did agree that if it did had a bilge pump he would have seen it pumping out and would have noticed it sooner, and stopped the engine before it actually hydrolocked that piston.

    Lesson learned. And yes the clamp was snug and didnt look loose from a far. Not sure it it was like that from factory.

    I did noted a few things that were overlooked from factory.
    All 4 engine mounts the main bolt holding the engine to the mounts, it was just snug but not tight.
    The steering cable was not harnessed right underneath the pole causing the steering cable to keep getting shoved into the hull every time we turned. I addressed that issue.

    Maybe this ski was built on a friday.

    I'm happy with it regardless.


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    What did your dealer/Kawasaki have to say about this?

  3. #3
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    I'm not going to bother, it will completely waste my summer while the ski gets fixed by the dealer, thats if they warranty it. I ended up finding all the parts and will only spend about $700 dollars.

    Beats me having to wait on my ski to get repaired. I did the same on my VXR with 40 hrs last year, the head was leaking due to a bad casting, (somewhat common on yamaha) and I found a used head for 300 bucks. I ended up fixing it in a couple of weeks and enjoyed the rest of the summer.

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    Understand. I would at least make sure they know about it, it might wake somebody up on the assembly line. Kawasaki seems pretty bad about leaving hose clamps loose. When my Yamaha boat was new, it was a joke. I told people that I bought it in kit form.

  5. #5
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    It will go in one ear and exit the other. I just want to ride this thing, have not been able to ride it yet.

  6. #6
    Thor's Avatar
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    Ultramax, thanks for the heads up; we’re a month or so away from splashing our ‘19 SXR 1500 and I will go through and ensure all the bolts, nuts, fittings, etc. THAT I CAN REACH are snug but, unfortunately, my mechanical skills are NOWHERE NEAR what yours obviously are. I gotta try and find a private mechanic around me who is reliable, trustworthy, etc. but, don’t know where to start looking (the dealer really is not an option at an over an hour away one way and even if they were closer, I just don’t believe that is path of success to follow ...)
    in the mean time, Safe to say, all my spare time is going to be spent reading and Re- reading that thread / great write up on installing the RuleMate bilge pumps (time to roll up the sleeves, I guess! :-/
    Question: if a situation ever were to occur where I had to have another rider tow me back to our dock, are the 2019 Kawasaki SXR 1500’s at risk of hydrolocking from being towed?
    Lastly: ha-ha, I can’t help but wonder; how close our serial #’s are to one another?! ...
    Last edited by Thor; 03-29-2019 at 06:17 AM.

  7. #7

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    I 100% agree.. As soon as I get a new JetSki, other PWC or even a boat I make sure the first mod is a Bilge pump. In the case of a boat, I add a second...

    I also suggest the switch you use is rated for being soaked all the time. Even the "waterproof" ones from west marine have failed me.. I've had great luck with this industrial switch..
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-1...cAAOSw78xcgWLR

    It still amazes me though the amount of people that want to argue with you about even putting a pump in. Sure, you may never use it but when you need it you're gonna want to hug the thing..

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue1 View Post
    I 100% agree.. As soon as I get a new JetSki, other PWC or even a boat I make sure the first mod is a Bilge pump. ...

    I also suggest the switch you use is rated for being soaked all the time. Even the "waterproof" ones from west marine have failed me.. I've had great luck with this industrial switch..
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-1TL1-2-SPST-Non-Locking-Toggle-Switch-Military-Aviation-MS24523-22/283408380742?epid=1723682213&hash=item41fc74b346:g :JOcAAOSw78xcgWLR

    ...
    Is that linked switch actually waterproof? The description does not mention water.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	446397

    My own preference is no switch at all. Install the bilge pump wiring directly to the battery (fused, of course). No exposed wire contacts, no switch to mount anywhere, very simple wiring with fairly short wires.

    Inline with the bilge pump wiring place a waterproof sealed connector, such as WeatherPack or Deutsch DT. Two pin connector. The bilge pump electronic water sensor does draw a tiny amount of battery power when sitting, so during extended storage on land just unplug the connector. No battery drain.

    Very easy to check whether the bilge pump is powered, just look at the connector.

    The Whale Supersub SS1212 bilge pump I am currently using has a simple check method. Place fingers on the water sensor pads at the back end of the pump body and within a few seconds the pump will start and run for about 30 seconds. I can reach down and manually activate the pump while on the trailer or afloat.

  9. #9

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    Your solution is a good one as well. But yes these switches are waterproof and haven’t failed me. The middle is filled with and epoxy and silicone and keeps water out well. There are some purpose built switches a few PWC places sell, those are good too.

  10. #10
    Thor's Avatar
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    K447 (as usual! and Rescue1,

    Thank Y’all for this stellar info-sharing - Much Appreciated and Keep the Intel a-comin’!

    (Big thumbs up emoji here!

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