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  1. #1
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    Garmin Echomap Install on 2006 Yamaha FX-HO

    Here's my Garmin Echomap install on my 2006 FX-HO. I've seen many installs that utilize the cup holder or the front glove box. I didn't really want to utilize that space on mine (my drink goes there). I have the FX-HO non-cruiser so the right side of my dash isn't used (the cruiser has more functionality on that side of the dash). So, my goal was a clean mount in that space using Ram ball style mounts. I also wired up the whole system using a 3 way switch (on, off, switched when ski is powered). For the transducer I decided to mount it in-hull because my main goal was chartplotting and depth reading, not fishing.


    The Garmin/Ram Ball Mounting Bracket:
    I ended up working with a friend to design a custom 3Dd printed bracket that would allow me to add a ram ball mount where the buttons for the cruiser model would have been. This should work with any ski that uses this part: F1Y-68322-00-00. It looks like 2006-2011 FX's all used this same part (non-cruiser unless you want to sacrifice your buttons and maybe display on the right side of the dash). This bracket allowed me to bolt into the support structure of the dash. It also allows me to return it to stock by reinstalling the gray insert should I want to in the future. I designed a custom rectangular hole in the bracket to mount a three way power switch for the Garmin and a 12v outlet. Any Carling Contura style of switch should fit snugly. As for the Garmin's transducer and power wiring, I made the bracket about 1/2" thick with a channel so the cables can run behind the ram ball and into the dash while remaining hidden.


    To bolt to the dash I had initially designed a backing plate for the dash to add strength. The backing plate ended up being too thick near the overlap with the clear windshield, so I didn't end up using it. I used 10-24 stainless bolts, washers, lock nuts and blue locktite to secure it all. The Ram ball is the B-size RAP-B-238U composite base.


    To attach the RAM ball to the Garmin mounting bracket I decided to use epoxy to custom attach the ball. Ram does make a bracket for the Echomap series of finders, but, it has caveats. The mount bolts to the bottom of the swivel mount and ends up raising the Garmin finder significantly which I didn’t really like. I bought a 1/4-20 Ram ball (RAM-B-337U) along with a 1 1/2” bolt and attached it with by drilling out a hole in the back of the mount. I also cut out the plastic supports in that hole and put high-strength epoxy to fill the entire void. I screwed on the Ram ball from the other side and used red locktite to make sure it won’t unthread. This allowed me to position the display of the Garmin closer to the lower part of the dash instead of raising it.


    Mount Parts List:
    3D printed bracket: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3516593


    Ram mount parts:
    Ram Ball B-size 1/4 20 (RAM-B-337U): https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-337U
    Ram B-size short arm (RAP-B-201U-A): https://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-201U-A
    Ram B-size composite diamond base (RAP-B-238U): https://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-238U


    Stainless hardware:
    1x 1/4 20 1 1/2" bolt (Hillman 883037): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...n?cm_vc=-10005
    2x 10-24 1 1/4" bolt (Hillman 883028): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...n?cm_vc=-10005
    1x 10-24 1" bolt(Hillman 883027): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...n?cm_vc=-10005
    3x #10 Diameter Flat Washers (Hillman 882047): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005
    3x 10-24 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts (Hillman 882039): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...d?cm_vc=-10005


    Misc:
    Heavy duty high strength epoxy
    Red Locktite 271: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...9741/100371833
    Blue Locktite 242: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...3398/307999743
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  2. #2
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    Electrical Design:
    Electrically I wanted a three way switch so I can have the power in three different positions. On all the time (could drain the battery, but can fish with the ski off), switched with the ski (on when the ski is on), and off. To do this I ran 12awg wiring from the battery for the main power and used the three way switch to trigger a relay. I used a switched electrical wire behind the dash (Yellow/Red wire) to trigger the power on and off with the ski. The output of the relay went to both the Garmin Echomap and the 12v outlet mounted in the glove box. I ordered a custom printed Carling Contura style switch to indicate the power setting.


    The switch I ordered had two lighted indicators. The issue I had with the switch is that it was designed to light up based off of having two 12v outputs and one input. My design uses two inputs on legs 1 and 3 and one 12v outlet to the relay on leg 2. Because of this the switch LEDs would always remain on and potentially drain the battery when not in use. I ended up adding another relay that switches the ground wire input to the switch so it will only light up when the output from the switch is on. In this configuration when the switch is on both lights on the switch will illuminate if the 12v input is present on both. For example: if the switch is in position "ACC ON" and the ski is started (so the "ACC ON" and "ACC SW" input lines are both active) than both the "ACC ON" and "ACC SW" indications will illuminate. In retrospect, it would have been much easier to get a non-illuminated switch.


    I've read exposed electrical connections can be an issue, especially on skis if gas vapers are trapped in the hull which is why I tried to seal every connection (See: http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2416635). I didn't use a ground block or fuse block to avoid exposed electrical connections. I measured out all of the wiring and made a harness prior to installing in the ski. If you do this, check that you can run your wiring through any firewalls and small places prior to building the harness outside of the ski (my fuse barely fit through the firewall). There is a rubber grommet between the lower part of the hull and the dash portion that was zip-tied tight. I had the remove that zip tie and it was still a tight fit running wiring up through the grommet. I soldered, used heat shrink and liquid electrical tape on all of the connections I could. The switch and LED relay uses quick disconnects which were difficult to seal (the connections on the three way switch actually aren't sealed). To tap into the switched Red/Yellow behind the dash I used a 16awg positap (super easy to tap the wire) along with heat shrink and liquid electrical tape to seal. I later came up with a numbering scheme for the wiring, printed labels with a brother label printer and put clear tape over those labels to make sure they don't come off (the cheap stickers of the brother won't last otherwise). The numbering and the electrical diagram I made and printed should make any potential troubleshooting the future easier (I'm keeping a printed diagram on the ski).


    Electrical Wiring Parts List:
    Custom rocker switch actuator: https://rockerswitchpros.com/product...itch-actuator/
    Non-lighted switch body (you'll want non-lighted SPDT ON-OFF-ON) Part V6D1-S00B: https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vjd1-s00b/
    Lighted switch body (I think this is what I have) Part V6D2-U66B: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Positap (blue, 16awg): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    12volt waterproof relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Marine 12 volt outlet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Liquid electrical tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    10' 12awg marine wiring with a fuse and ring terminals. I cheaped out, probably a bad choice and cut this harness (likely not marine grade): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    16awg marine wiring (red and black). I cheaped out on this some and used this (not sure if it's marine).
    Red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Black: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Crimp style spade quick disconnects (I bought a kit): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Zip ties: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Heat shrink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Brother label printer: https://www.amazon.com/Brother-PTD21.../dp/B013DG2FNW
    Clear duct tape or similar to keep the labels on: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Cryst.../dp/B00EUGCT22
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    Last edited by vcbb10; 03-25-2019 at 09:13 AM.

  3. #3
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    Transducer Mounting:
    To mount the transducer I decided to go with in-hull mounting. Mounting externally would give better signal, performance and water temperature. The option for external mounting usually involves bolting on a custom bracket using the bolts for the boarding step, which the non-cruiser doesn't have, or drilling into the hull to mount the bolts. My primary usage for the finder is chartplotting and depth, not fishing, so performance wasn't as critical for what I wanted. For these reasons I decided to give in-hull mounting a try at least initially. I mounted the transducer near the rear of the starboard side. It's behind the battery on a flat area that is about 4" in front of the drain plug (I can see the bracket through the drain plug hole). I used "Vexilar A.C.E. Adhesive Kit Transducer Epoxy" which is made for transducer mounting for adhesion. The Garmin transducer isn't completely flat on the bottom leaving some gaps between the epoxy and the hull around the edges. To fill these I used duct seal putty and *attempted* to fill the edges without inducing air gaps (which is difficult because the mount location was hard to reach). Note the duct seal putty isn't used for strength/adhesion to the hull, it's likely to remain more flexible and removable. I haven't tested performance yet, I'll post information once tested.


    12v Power Outlet:
    Because I wanted a three way power switch for my Garmin, adding in a 12v power outlet would be a piece of cake because most of the wiring would be done. Because of this I added a standard marine 12v outlet to the glove box. This required drilling a 1 1/8" hole near the rear of the glove box. I did have some of chrome plastic trim removed to paint already, so I had easy access to drill and mount this. I used a dab of marine goop around the threads to water seal it a bit better, even though it has a rubber gasket.




    Thatís the completed install. Feel free to ask questions or provide suggestions.
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    Last edited by vcbb10; 03-25-2019 at 09:15 AM.

  4. #4
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    More pictures for post #1

    Operation of the three way switch:
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    Last edited by vcbb10; 03-25-2019 at 07:16 PM.

  5. #5
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    Reserved

  6. #6
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Have you actually tested this out on the water yet? I have found transducer placement with this type of transducer can be kind of touchy. I finally found something that works really well on my GP 1800. It’s mounted right on the center of the ride plate directly under the nozzle. Worked almost flawlessly there even up to 50 mph or a little more. Took me going over 60 before the depth reading flashed and lost the bottom.

  7. #7
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    I haven't gotten out on the water yet to test the transducer placement. That's certainly something I'm interested in seeing.

    Being a 2006 FX I believe my ride plate is aluminum so I wouldn't be able to mount the transducer over the ride plate. I think my hull is fiberglass (not NanoXcel). The transducer should work better through a fiberglass hull vs. NanoXcel, but, we'll have to see!

  8. #8
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    This is how I did it



    Here is the view from underneath



    I just did this ski over over the weekend. I have set up 3 skis like this now
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  9. #9
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    Gotcha, behind the ride plate. My real goal with the chartplotter and depth is actually for water skiing probably more than fishing. Our lakes here get shallow in weird places and I'm hoping to use this to keep out of areas that get too shallow. For the skiing aspect I was trying to avoid having a transducer that interferes with the back of the ski because I'll be getting on and off quite a bit. I'll have to do some testing to see how well my mount location holds bottom, but, as of now I'm hoping to keep it in the hull even if I have to sacrifice transducer performance. I may well be posting on here in a month or so on a new mount location if it doesn't work out.

    These new Garmin transducers are just really dang long making it difficult to mount on the stern.

  10. #10
    vcbb10's Avatar
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    I am curious, what kind of bracket did you use to mount the transducer? And how did you end up running the transducer cable into the hull?

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