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  1. #1
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    4-Stroke Engine Dimensions

    TL : DR

    Does anybody have any kind of rough height, width, length dimensions to the 1.8L motors in complete form? Needed for motor swap purposes... Thanks!



    Hello guys,

    I am in the very very early planning stages of a future 4-stroke conversion on my LS2000. I am in this boat cheap and if I end up loving it this summer I am contemplating a future 4-stroke conversion.

    I know there is room for a MR-1 as they have been swapped into one before. Given that the TR-1 is smaller than the MR-1 it too should fit. What I don't know and haven't been able to find are any kind of dimensions to the various versions of the 1.8L both NA and Charged. I've read through several GPRSHO and similar threads but haven't came across actual engine dimensions.

    My initial plan was the TR-1. It is a very compact motor that has similar power output AND weighs VERY close to the original 1200 Non-PV motors. TR-1~ 155lbs from what I have found vs about 150-160lbs in drop-in form for the 1200s. I am not sure if that number is a "drop-in" weight on the TR-1.

    If I went with a 1.8L we are talking an additional ~100lbs PER motor given the 260lbs of a Charged 1.8L (per engine weight thread). But the power gains are obviously substantially higher than the stock 135hp per motor.

    Lots of decisions to be made between now and then. I'm not in a hurry or position schedule wise at all to go start buying engines. I realistically would like to go through with this winter 2020/2021. That time frame also gives a chance for more TR-1 equipped skis to get wrecked/parted as they are only 3 years old and harder to come buy when you need 2x the parts.


  2. #2
    The good news is a LS2000 is kind of a fat pig anyway, so an extra 200 pounds of engine wont really matter. Especially given the 2-2.5 times more horsepower per engine...

  3. #3
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    I don't have exact measurements for you per say, yet having done a full engine-swap myself, I can share this food-for-thought:

    I swapped a 2012 1.8L NA engine into a 2005 ski that originally had an MR1 HO. Furthermore, I now have what seems like "more" room to wrench around inside the hull! I think the 1.8L adds a bit more height, but the port/stbd bulk is way less than the MR1. They both share the same engine mount geometry to mid-shaft offset, so it's pretty much a drop-in no brainer. That said, you will need the entire drive train (coupler mid-shaft, shaft, impeller, pump housing) due to the shaft being thicker and the coupler being larger. Carry over the water box/lock as well, and electrical harness / gauge cluster and you are done.

    I've seen SUV 2-strokes converted to MR1 and 1.8L, but in both circumstances the forward engine mounts had to be moved - so I'm iffy on 2-strokes sharing the same mount geometry as the fours.

  4. #4
    FYI, WFO once posted that the 1100/1200 non PV engines share mount spacing with the GP800R PV motor. The GP1200R motor shares mount spacing with the MR1 which is 4 stroke geometry. It will be a few weeks, but I can measure the mount geometry on a couple of rental units I maintain that have TR1 engines. I am honestly not impressed by them. Especially oil changes. Its an unmitigated disaster to change the filter. EPA superfund type stuff.

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    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Bandit....

    I actually read through your swap and that is what lead me to asking about the 1.8L dimensions. I figured if a MR-1 can be swapped into the boat and you could swap a 1.8L into a MR-1 equipped boat than I could go from a 2 stroke to the 1.8L. The biggest issue with the boat vs jetski swaps is I have a wall right in front of the motors. The length dimension will be most important to me because of that.

    In terms of motor mounts. The guy that swapped a pair of MR-1s into a boat did have to move his mounts forward a few inches. Not the end of the world, I'm not afraid of a bit of glass work and fabrication. Here is a picture showing the MR-1 swap into a XR1800.

    I don't like his front mount setup. Seems a bit lacking...




    Raven....

    Could you explain the oil filter location? Maybe on a boat access might be easier? I know on these 2 strokes, compared to my waveraider with the 1100, it is a breeze accessing everything.

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    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Bandit...

    Also, talking about pumps and driveline. Swapping out to the larger driveshafts/pumps might be my biggest obstacle. The 1100/1200 engines use a different pump setup as compared to the 1200PV. The transom plates are also different.

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    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Copy on the fwd bulkhead constraint. When I get a chance, I can measure from the aft engine mount to the oil pump (or maybe it’s the throttle body intake) being the most fwd on the 1.8 NA. On the SVHO/SHO's, it would obviously be the SC being the most fwd bulk.

    True, MR1 (and maybe TR1 too) you likely not need to mess with the drive line. That said, I tend to like the 1.8 engine way way better than the old MR1’s - I hate the oiling & the added reduction gear. So spit-balling here... with a 1.8 end-goal, maybe alternatively consider re-tapping the existing (engine side) coupler (63M-45813-01-94) to match the 1.8L crankshaft threads (that is assuming the 1.8 is larger), thus keeping your entire LS2000 drive-line as is.

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  9. #8
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Those measurements would be helpful. Maybe even a measurement from engine coupler to furthest fwd part. I need to measure my available space as well. I've got one motor and pump out currently so now is the time to take any measurements I can.

    That does sound like a good (if not the best) option to re-tap the 63M coupler to 1.8L crankshaft threads. The only thing I would be concerned with is strength of the existing driveline versus the newer pumps. I have to remember this is a boat so it won't get abused near as much as it would if it was in a ski. That might be a saving grace...

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    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Unless someone beats me to it, I'll try measure tonight. I get the 1.8 shaft width too.

    This is totally a left-field guess, but I think the 1.8L beefier shaft/couplers were due to the greater HP put out by the SC 1.8. So it was just a cost-saving effort to keep the parts-bin simplified to the larger shaft for all 1.8's. If I nailed that rational, I'd say a 1.8 NA on the original drive-line should be fine.
    However, my re-tapping suggestion might be dependent on how much meat is left on that coupler after re-tapping??

    So I saw your other thread on pump adaptation scenarios, and along these lines, similar school-of-thought.... what about going the other direction --> use both 1.8 couplers and adapt the mid-shaft side coupler to your OEM mid-shaft. Now, I get that one cannot tap smaller, so I was thinking a shop which can 1st fill the existing void with molten aluminum, then re-tap for the smaller size for your mid-shaft threads.

  11. #10
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    So I saw your other thread on pump adaptation scenarios, and along these lines, similar school-of-thought.... what about going the other direction --> use both 1.8 couplers and adapt the mid-shaft side coupler to your OEM mid-shaft. Now, I get that one cannot tap smaller, so I was thinking a shop which can 1st fill the existing void with molten aluminum, then re-tap for the smaller size for your mid-shaft threads.
    If there isn't enough meat in the 63M couplers to go larger on the threads then I believe that line thinking would work. Find a shop good with a TIG (I might know a guy perfect for this actually) and get the midshaft coupler from a 1.8L welded shut then drilled and tapped to thread onto my 63M midshaft.

    That would make since on the oversize shaft being used for both charged and NA versions. I have a feeling a SHO/SVHO 1.8L just won't fit my length limits...so the NA version might be my only option if I go 1.8L over a TR-1.

    I'm heading home for lunch now and will get a measurement from my midshaft to the fwd bulkhead.

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