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  1. #91

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    Quote Originally Posted by blakegjones View Post
    I am going to test the skills of my local fabricators and see if they are willing and able to modify it like I want.

    I want an inverted gooseneck at the top of the box into the second chamber. So I will see if they can extend the jacketed line for me. Might be impossible but will see what they say tomorrow.
    So it sounds like you want an internal "riser" like on regular mercusiser stuff. What is your location.

  2. #92
    I am from Salt Rock KwaZulu Natal South Africa.

    What is mercusiser stuff?

    I just want to mimic what Iíve seen on exhaust pipes of every other ski - they all have a high point that prevents water making its way into the exhaust pipe.

  3. #93

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    Sorry. Mercruiser stern drive engines for full size boats.

  4. #94
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blakegjones View Post
    . . . .
    I just want to mimic what I’ve seen on exhaust pipes of every other ski - they all have a high point that prevents water making its way into the exhaust pipe.
    Correct. I commonly refer to this as a high-loop, and it must travel above the outside water-line. FWIW, it's not hard, using a combination cold-air induction tubing (both aluminum & silicone) to arrange your own design. For example, a few years back, I totally customized a free-flow thru-hull exhaust system. Aside from adding a silencer, increasing the height of this high-loop was a 2nd goal, due to that fact that I fish with this ski. A pic of the high-loop is in this thread post #4 : http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2888193

    Back to the topic here . . . on these Ultra LX skis, is it apparent the exhaust system is completely flooding, when it obviously shouldn't be. I agree with the previous posts in that the coolant line(s) be suspect, poor design, etc... It could be as simple as a particular hose staying below the waterline (no high-loops), OR said same hose DOES have a high-loop, however the inlet/outlet is still below the waterline which permits a reverse siphon to get established. Identify and fix the "flaw" : Me? I'd insure not only having a high-loop hose route on all EVERY "hull" penetrating hose, but ones that have a below waterline port might also just need to have a "T" spliced-in at the loop section for feeding a new tell/pisser, as pissers have the dual-purpose of breaking siphons when off. If you guys are fishing of the LX, you simply must 'harden up" system beyond mfr specs. I did that to my ski (although its another brand).

    In regards to the LX re-hydro issue (immediately after clearing a hydro-lock) . . . if the exhaust system is already flooded, and water is sitting is up next to the exhaust ports, that water can be progressively sucked-in with every starting attempt stroke, because without combustion & having a closed throttle valve, there will be a net-vacuum inside the cyl every time the exhaust stroke pops the exhaust valves open.
    Yet another (long-shot) theory, might be some involvement with the PAIR (reed) system. Not a fan of this one, but I've seen stranger things ... I posted a pic that depicts a possible path to the intake side. Not saying this is the case, only that those of you that have this issue might want to check these hoses and reed covers next time you are hydro-locking.

  5. #95
    Hey TimeBandit cool post.

    I liked your modified exhaust pipe. But I think this issue might be a little more complex (or itís just me), in that the line will need to remain jacketed until the exhaust gas is in the water box.

    In your scenario is looks like you modified the line downstream of the waterbox.

    I need to modify the pipe upstream of the waterbox and then I think it would be wise to jacket this pipe to ensure the pipe remains sufficiently cool. I think the exhaust pipe upstream of the waterbox runs a lot hotter than the pipe downstream of the waterbox for two reasons, first being that the gas expands and cools in the waterbox, and second in that it is first to mix with the water within the waterbox.

    Keen to know your thoughts on how the hell Iím going to jacket the riser pipe before entering the top of the waterbox.

  6. #96
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    The source for the cooling water that enters and exits the waterbox fittings is the block and cylinder hear, for the water in the engine to fill the waterbox up there has to be something catastrophically wrong. There just isnt enough volume.

    Keep in mind, the system we are talking about dates back to 2004 with the 12f with no real changes.

    There is just not enough pressure from wave action to force water through the motor and there is not enough volume of water in there to flood the waterbox to the point that you will get water up the manifold due to reversion during cranking.

    The motor sucks hard enough to pull water up the full length of the exhaust manifold, I found that out while testing a straight pipe.

    If you have a corroded waterbox inlet, it will dump water into the exhaust, if you have a corroded merge pipe it will dump water into the exhaust, if you bob the back of the ski with the exhaust tip installed, you will get water in the exhaust.


    Sean

  7. #97
    But Sean what about the source being the water outside the Jetski that can fill the waterbox through the drain pipe? I am talking about via the third pipe on the two waterbox connectors - the one that goes out the back of the hull.

  8. #98
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Its certainly possible, you could test that theory with a check valve inline or relocate that drain to a real pisser fitting out of the pump tunnel on the side of the ski. I hadn't given that too much thought since that sits back off of the pump shoe and on the roof of the pump cavity, I figured it would be tougher for water to pop up and through the fitting even in rough water than it would be for the water to ram up the poop chute. If memory serves, that is the line with the restricted side on the little L fitting on the newer skis.

    A big part of why I think its not the issue is from when I used to ride in the surf at the beach, it would commonly fill the secondary waterbox up and cause the ski to list to the side if we were bobbing around. Never caused starting issues though. Even after deleting the secondary box we never had it lock up but I also remove the tip on my skis so that could be why. The only time I ever had issue was when I was testing a straight pipe.

    To be clear, I don't know the answer to all this. I have just never had issue with a waterbox that was in good shape even running single, double, with tip, without tip, restricted fitting, open fitting etc. On the flip side, internal corrosion of the inlet tube I have seen cause this several times.

    Im always up for learning something new though

    Sean

  9. #99
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    blakegjones, given that other corrosion issues don't already exist (as Sean is saying) ... I'm with you. I'd put money on that drain hose. As others have said, I can visualize that hull exit penetration below the water line.

    The way I interpret the LX cooling system ... I don't see that drain being important while in the water. On the driveway, sure. But on the water - not so much. So how about pinch that sucker off, or a ball valve it. Sure, you can re-purpose as another pisser (above the water-line) like Sean says, but then you'll loose some of the gravity drainage when out of the water.


  10. #100
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    The critical thing to remember is that the pisser functions as a flow regulator, if you pinch it off it runs the risk of putting too much water somewhere it wasnt meant to go. I would be careful with blocking it off completely (its there for a reason since kawasaki doesnt put extra parts in for free) moving it or installing a different pisser is how I would go about it.

    Sean

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