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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Hello again, I get the water in my hull from the rear drive shaft
    black plastic plate, is it a bearing carrier or seal holder but the
    bolts are leaking water at a dribbling rate. Could this be the problem
    to the surging I’ve been having? Thanks, Mick..

  2. #12
    Yeah my 2011 is all effed up. I had a boost problem a few years ago and after lots of money pissed away from the untrained people at the dealership. I found myself and google that it was the pivot bearing on the tensioner was rusted and wouldnt allow the tensioner to move. I replaced it and it ran like new. Now the oilp code comes on and the oil pressure is like 10psi at like 5000 rpm. Its suppose to be 40 something psi at 3500 rpm. It only had 33 hours on it. Apparently I need to pull the motor out and check the oil pressure valve, crank/cam bearings and a bunch of other shit. It ran perfect before I put a bunch of that r&d aftermarket stuff on it trying to make it faster. Now Im pretty much fd

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    10
    BUMP.

  4. #14
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Brisvegas
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    4,477
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    700
    Quote Originally Posted by mickaz View Post
    Hello again, I get the water in my hull from the rear drive shaft
    black plastic plate, is it a bearing carrier or seal holder but the
    bolts are leaking water at a dribbling rate. Could this be the problem
    to the surging I’ve been having? Thanks, Mick..
    100% is your problem .... any water in the hull gets sucked up into the belt and causes it to slip....
    Fix the leak 1st

  5. #15
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
    Join Date
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    Brisvegas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gooball34 View Post
    Yeah my 2011 is all effed up. I had a boost problem a few years ago and after lots of money pissed away from the untrained people at the dealership. I found myself and google that it was the pivot bearing on the tensioner was rusted and wouldnt allow the tensioner to move. I replaced it and it ran like new. Now the oilp code comes on and the oil pressure is like 10psi at like 5000 rpm. Its suppose to be 40 something psi at 3500 rpm. It only had 33 hours on it. Apparently I need to pull the motor out and check the oil pressure valve, crank/cam bearings and a bunch of other shit. It ran perfect before I put a bunch of that r&d aftermarket stuff on it trying to make it faster. Now Im pretty much fd
    Did you replace the prop.... as I've rebuilt s few customers who didn't tighten the prop correctly and it undone and pushed the crank causing a destroyed bottom end.....


  6. #16

    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbreaksalot View Post
    100% is your problem .... any water in the hull gets sucked up into the belt and causes it to slip....
    Fix the leak 1st
    is there any chance at all that there could be a water leak somewhere else above the bolts dribbling down and making them look like they are the culprits? gonna put it in the shop to replace the drive shaft bearing and want to be certain.. yuo can see water trickling from the bolts with the ski just sitting in the lake without engine running. Thanks mate, Mick.

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