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  1. #1

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    Reliable vs boost and clutch is

    Just curious what is everyone’s thoughts the clutches go faster the more boost... but at what point is it still not killing them? Stock st 6-7 psi seems to work fine... mine is at 10-11 lbs and know it’s basicly the smallest wheel other then stock. But if going to move up some where does most issues show face?


  2. #2
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    I think riding style plays a bigger role than boost psi. In other words, A 15 psi wheel on a lake would probably last longer than a 10 psi wheel in the ocean because you're coming unhooked all the time... that action puts the stress on the clutch more than anything. Looks like you have a 2009 ski, so the clutch 'issues' on that year are limited to the sprangs rolling over, as opposed to sheering teeth off which happened in some later versions (I think around 2012). There is now a newer clutch assembly used in the SVHO engines which you could use as they appear to be a lot stronger than the 2009 version you have. Worst case, drop in a bigger wheel and replace with the SVHO clutch if yours ever goes.

  3. #3

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    Yea just curious if there was a tipping point. I ride the river and creaks so most the times hooked up other then 1-2 choppy days a year and maybe a salt water trip. That being said only 108 hours and 10lbs of boost. But keep being tempers to do ET low boost wheel and some retainers and let it eat .. but then will need tunnel tee forced so snow ball effect haha.,

  4. #4
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    You don't need retainers for a low boost wheel and 8500 or less rpm, I ran that wheel for 100 hrs. Main thing is to make sure blow off valve works properly, and throttle control will save the clutch, I believe i think a clutch lasted me 90hrs on that wheel

  5. #5
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mittens View Post
    Yea just curious if there was a tipping point. I ride the river and creaks so most the times hooked up other then 1-2 choppy days a year and maybe a salt water trip. That being said only 108 hours and 10lbs of boost. But keep being tempers to do ET low boost wheel and some retainers and let it eat .. but then will need tunnel tee forced so snow ball effect haha.,
    Based on your sig, it looks like you already have the Fizzle IC, Tial BOV, the Dean's Team tune, and RRFPR, and all the other goodies that go along with it. Sounds like your ski could accommodate the larger wheel with just the tunnel reinforcement. It's a slippery slope once you start modding! Also for what its worth, you can set up your prop (or tune for that matter) to a certain RPM if you are concern... for example, set your ski to run around 8400 as opposed to something like 9000rpms.

  6. #6

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    Yea my tune has the limiter set at 8850...
    but hooked up WOT is 8300. It’s bouncing the limiter on a hole shot or wave that’s my worry with not haveing retainers.

    but if tune is all right and set up at 10-11lbs (static fuelmpressure) has the RRFP, but set static. Then will the computers adjust to the extra boost or will it just lean it out. It’s my understanding they are not running off a 02 system to correct. It’s all in the tune or fuel pressure.

    so adding 5 lbs of boost will lean it out...

    its currently at 11.5-11.8 air fuel on wideband, and when I check plugs middle is leaner then outsides and colors make me not want to go leaner on those inside holes...

  7. #7
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mittens View Post
    Yea my tune has the limiter set at 8850...
    but hooked up WOT is 8300. It’s my understanding they are not running off a 02 system to correct. It’s all in the tune or fuel pressure.
    Correct, the SHO and SVHO platform do not use a 02 sensor (like a car would), so the ECU does not adjust for fuel based on actual AFRs. You really should run a AFR gauge to make sure you're staying within safe levels... its hard to tell just by looking at the spark plugs. Your exhaust manifold on the 2009 is already drilled and tapped to accept a 02 sensor (unlike later generations), so its a very easy install. I use the MTX-L which just requires you to tap into a 12v switched power supply and run to ground... very easy. Here are some safe levels to run a 2009 FZR at (these are based on my own ski with a MTX-L and compared to what others have posted on GH over the years):

    Idle: 10.8
    2000: 12.1
    2500:13.0-13.2
    3000: 13.9
    4000: 12.8-13.1
    5000: 12.4-12.6
    6000: 12.3-12.5
    7000: 12.0
    7730 (wot): 11.8-12.1 (mostly 11.9)

  8. #8
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    The ECU adjusts fuel trim off the Manafold pressure sensor (map)

  9. #9

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    I have a wide band. Mods in my sig and mynpost said 11.5-11.8 wot at 8300.

    and I know a lot have gone into the 12s with the motor air/ fuel wise but don’t make my car do it not going to make my ski do it. Ha 11.5-< 12 is as far as I want to go.


    thank you for the rpm vs range though good to see comparison on what’s not giving you a issue.

    And good to know the map sensor is causing adjustment. What kind of map does this sho have? How may bar? Stock only being 5-6 psi.

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