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  1. #1

    2012 fx sho battery drain over night

    My 2012 fx sho has been draining the battery overnight. I took out my multimeter and noticed the blue 3 amp fuse on the right side is draining the power while the ski is off. From what I can tell in the owners manual the blue 3 amp fuses are related to security. Wondering if anyone has any advice as to what I should look into next to trace this down.


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    put a hand on the voltage regulator, if its warm, unplug it from the harness and see if the draw is still on.

    some regulator faults can shut the hot line to ground, effectively draining the battery overnight

    rare, but I've seen it on all brands of skis ( and cars)

  3. #3
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stpetesho View Post
    My 2012 fx sho has been draining the battery overnight. I took out my multimeter and noticed the blue 3 amp fuse on the right side is draining the power while the ski is off. From what I can tell in the owners manual the blue 3 amp fuses are related to security. Wondering if anyone has any advice as to what I should look into next to trace this down.
    Because voltage is present, is not enough to conclude a power drain is present. To confirm a drain, you would need to splice an amp-meter inline with that circuit. Now, if you were certain you had a multi-meter with amp measuring capabilities, you would simply unplug the fuse, then insert each of the meter’s probes into the respective fuse terminal sockets - aka the multi-meter is now the ‘fuse’. Since that circuit is rated a 3A, make sure you start your meter at that (or higher) amp rating initially, then work the meter’s scale down until the amps register on the readout. That said, unlike voltage, I’ll consider amp measuring more advance experience – so if unsure, take it to a repair technician.
    Next, draining a battery flat over-night is also not solely indicative of a wiring issue either. You’d have to guarantee the battery is in great health, which now is going to be suspect…. Why? Because if your batt is lead-acid type, add to this that whatever has flatten your battery already once now, may have now sulfated the plates to a degree which has either damaged or severely lost substantial charge “capacity”. This means your battery may seem to accept a full-charge - yet it’s not actually fully charged – further fueling speculation : is it the ski or the battery capacity. In other words, regardless of what has discharge your batt in the first place, we can no longer consider THAT batt now as “known good” from this point forward, without getting it properly load-test by a battery tester. Next, if you buy a brand-new battery DON’T ever let your ski get a chance drain it if you suspect a wiring short - for these very reasons I’ve explained.
    Looking at the wire diagrams, the Security box is supposed to have constant power from that fuse. Normally the security box draws very very very little power in its standby mode, as it needs to be alert to respond to the incoming security fob radio signal. That said, extremely rare (yet possible), your security box may be ‘confused’ and not going fully into standby mode. Once again, the above Amp meter check can confirm this – read amps when the ski is awake (not running), then as it powers the cluster off. Also, if you have a working fob, try cycling between locked and unlocked a few times – as this might be enough to clear any anomalies.
    If this were “my” problem, I’d get a (new) good fresh battery, hook-up the black cable, THEN put my amp-meter leads (on the highest setting) on the red cable & batt + terminal. I’d do this to see if the battery is “seeing” any significant amp drawl while the ski is asleep. “If” one exists, I’d then divide-and-conquer by pulling fuses (one at a time) until I note the drawl disappear. Then work my way inward to identify which component circuit was responsible.


  4. #4

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    One excellent reply.... just make sure the circuit you are testing for amp draw is de-energized as not to burn out your DVOM.

    CJ

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    Because voltage is present, is not enough to conclude a power drain is present. To confirm a drain, you would need to splice an amp-meter inline with that circuit. Now, if you were certain you had a multi-meter with amp measuring capabilities, you would simply unplug the fuse, then insert each of the meter’s probes into the respective fuse terminal sockets - aka the multi-meter is now the ‘fuse’. Since that circuit is rated a 3A, make sure you start your meter at that (or higher) amp rating initially, then work the meter’s scale down until the amps register on the readout. That said, unlike voltage, I’ll consider amp measuring more advance experience – so if unsure, take it to a repair technician.
    Next, draining a battery flat over-night is also not solely indicative of a wiring issue either. You’d have to guarantee the battery is in great health, which now is going to be suspect…. Why? Because if your batt is lead-acid type, add to this that whatever has flatten your battery already once now, may have now sulfated the plates to a degree which has either damaged or severely lost substantial charge “capacity”. This means your battery may seem to accept a full-charge - yet it’s not actually fully charged – further fueling speculation : is it the ski or the battery capacity. In other words, regardless of what has discharge your batt in the first place, we can no longer consider THAT batt now as “known good” from this point forward, without getting it properly load-test by a battery tester. Next, if you buy a brand-new battery DON’T ever let your ski get a chance drain it if you suspect a wiring short - for these very reasons I’ve explained.
    Looking at the wire diagrams, the Security box is supposed to have constant power from that fuse. Normally the security box draws very very very little power in its standby mode, as it needs to be alert to respond to the incoming security fob radio signal. That said, extremely rare (yet possible), your security box may be ‘confused’ and not going fully into standby mode. Once again, the above Amp meter check can confirm this – read amps when the ski is awake (not running), then as it powers the cluster off. Also, if you have a working fob, try cycling between locked and unlocked a few times – as this might be enough to clear any anomalies.
    If this were “my” problem, I’d get a (new) good fresh battery, hook-up the black cable, THEN put my amp-meter leads (on the highest setting) on the red cable & batt + terminal. I’d do this to see if the battery is “seeing” any significant amp drawl while the ski is asleep. “If” one exists, I’d then divide-and-conquer by pulling fuses (one at a time) until I note the drawl disappear. Then work my way inward to identify which component circuit was responsible.

    TimeBandit thanks for the great reply. I locked and unlocked a couple times from the key fob a couple of times as you said. Then tested directly via the fuse and it would start at .024 amps but drop down to .002. I tested inline to the battery before making this post last night and could swear it was a fluctuating between .02/.03. In any case, the same test now reads a constant .002. My battery is definitely shot now only able to hold 10.5 volts. I just replaced it because I thought my old battery was the cause of this issue. I'll keep a trickle charger on it from now on or disconnect the battery now that I know this can kill a battery. Once again thanks for all the help. I'll update this thread if a fresh battery changes

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