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  1. #1

    2011 Kawasaki Ultra 300lx is not running good after intake/exaust r&d upgrades

    Hi everyone. I have a 2011 ultra 300lx that has 29 hours on it. I purchased some upgrade parts from r&d last summer and after I installed them it seemed to ride fine for a few hours. The next time I took it out after a minute or two it started beeping and the code on the screen said OILP. The motor was acting and sounding like was running hot. So I cut it off and got it towed back. It does the same thing when its im my driveway on the hose Runs fine for a min or two and it beeps with the OILP code.. The water coming out of the pisser and bottom pump area is scalding hot after it warms up when its on the hose. I think somehow the water isn't going threw the intercooler properely and not cooling the motor. Does the engine oil go threw the intercooler to cool it down? Im not very experienced in working on stuff. I think I may have put a hose on the wrong thing when I instslled the r&d exaust and intake. Please help me with any advice if you think you know what I did to make my awesome jet ski a bucket. I know I probably should have taken it to a professional but I like to work on my own stuff to save money. Also I have a dead end carreer as a welder in a non union shop. So yeah you guessed it. Poor white trash. So please go easy on me. Im not too bright. I reek or jean shorts and dirt driveways. Try not to rip me too bad. Also I took a retard test in 4th grade. My brothers called me tard test for years. Thanks for helping with any advice if you can.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Don't be so hard on yourself, Gooball! I bet you can weld a helluva lot better than I can!

    Sounds like low oil pressure to me. Have you checked the level? Don't forget that the engine MUST be level when you check it. I use one of those small circular levels, like you see on top of a wheel balancer. I place it on the valve cover. I pull the dipstick out and wipe it off, then stick it halfway into the dispstick tube. I check the oil when in the water and I move the 'Ski around until the bubble is level, then I quickly shove the dipstick in and back out to check the level.

    If it's got oil in it, there are probably several causes of low oil pressure, but I have no idea what is most likely.

    Do you see any oil leaking under the engine?

  3. #3
    No oil leaking anywhere, and it reads full when ski is level. It ran perfect before I decided to add aftermarket stuff to it. I put a speed up thing on it, intake, exaust, blow off valve, water box, scat trak impeller, an exaust plate thing and removed the filter in the exaust. It sounds way too loud now and I hate the sound. Im gonna buy a new filter thing to put back in the exaust to see if that will quiten it. I don't know whats goin on with my oil pressure. My ski has less than 30 hours on it and I don't think the oil pump or cooler are messed up. Is there a way to check to see if they work before replacing a bunch of stuff? I noticed the tensioner swivel bearing thing has a bunch of play in it. When I tried to take the belt off, I had to turn the wrench as hard as I could to get the spring to bend so the belt would come off. I think it may be putting alot of strain on the motor and thay may be its running hot and low oil pressure. I don't know. Any suggestions? Thanks

  4. #4
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    If the prop wasn't tightened correctly and loctite applied it can come loose and push on the crank and destroy the bearings , causing OILP problem...... do you have any crankshaft float.....

    If so your in for a world of hurt

  5. #5

    2011 Poo Poo ultra 300lx

    I will check the crankshaft to see if it moves. It runs like the motor struggling to turn over. Like something is holding it back from turning freely. I thought it was the tensioner spring so I replaced it. Also got a new tensioner pulley and pivot bearing. That didn't fix it. I took the belt off and ran the motor thinking the supercharger was messed up. That didn't fix. The only other thing I can think to do is unhook the impeller and see if the motor will turn without it trying to cut off. If I don't hook up my battery charger to the battery, the motor wont start because its so hard for it to turn over. Even with the battery charger it still struggles to turn over. I don't know what could putting that much strain on it other than the impeller. I put one of those $700 scat impellers on it. I think maby somehow I did something wrong and its rubbing on the jet pump housing. Maby the bearings on the driveshaft are shot and it's causing the impeller to rub. I don't know

  6. #6

    Unhappy Still runs like crap

    I took out my 33hour barely used that much 2011 ultra 300 out today and it cut off after I went 1/2 throttle for 5 seconds. Then it took a bunch of tries to start it again. The oilp code came on and the motor was sounding like it had no oil in it. Clunking noise. Hours later when my fat out of shape ass got it back to the dock I read the service manual pdf. It said that oilp could be bad crank or cam bearings, crank shaft o ring, oil pressure switch, oil screen clogged, oil pump, and the last thing it said was set it on fire. My oil has signs of water in it. Looks like light chocolate milk. Could that be a head gasket? I tried an oil pressure gauge and it only had 10psi at like 4000-5000rpm. Book said its suppose to be 40 something at like 3500 rpm. Any suggestions before I lite this thing on fire?
    Last edited by Gooball34; 06-03-2019 at 08:36 AM.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Make sure you have insurance on the hull before you torch it!

  8. #8
    Any suggestions before I lite this thing on fire?

    Yes, don't suggest on an open forum that you are about to do an insurance job!

  9. #9
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    If you installed the prop and it came loose it can thrust the crank by pushing the driveshaft into the engine.


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