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  1. #1

    Running RXP 300 on land to change oil....

    I have never needed to connect my ski to water before. It appears that in order to change the oil, that I need to warm up the engine. There appear to be two hose connection sites on the rear of either side of the ski. Do I need to connect a hose to both? Do I need an adapter or will a regular garden hose screw in? Any other oil change tips? Thanks in advance!


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    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    I never warm mine up, but it also never gets to cold here.


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    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    Running RXP 300 on land to change oil....

    Looking at the unit from the rear , the left port is the regular flush port and the right port is a IC flush port . You can use an adapter or a regular garden hose but keep in mind if you use the garden hose and make it to tight the nut on the inside of the unit might come loose so an adapter Is suggested , you can warm the oil in 3 steps . Run the unit on the hose as per the owners manual no more than 2 minutes , then turn it off let it cool for 6 minutes and then run it again for 2 minutes , do this 3 times that should be a total of 6 minutes warm up time and should help extract the oil easier , never leave the water running while the machine is powered off .
    Last edited by DR2006RXP; 02-15-2019 at 09:18 PM.

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    In addition to the above during the cooling intervals you could direct the water hose at the carbon ring for more cooling....

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    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    See post 2.....

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    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    It all depends where you live , change that oil mid winter see how long it takes .

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    Quote Originally Posted by DR2006RXP View Post
    It all depends where you live , change that oil mid winter see how long it takes .
    This... plus you want to suspend as much dirt particles in the oil as possable that is going to be sucked out rather than leave them sitting at the bottom of the sump.

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    Tbranella's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jserr68594 View Post
    I have never needed to connect my ski to water before. It appears that in order to change the oil, that I need to warm up the engine. There appear to be two hose connection sites on the rear of either side of the ski. Do I need to connect a hose to both? Do I need an adapter or will a regular garden hose screw in? Any other oil change tips? Thanks in advance!

    curious as to why you've never flushed you ski?

    but anyway..... don't run it on the hose for more than 30 seconds...
    follow the flushing procedure, start engine, turn on water, turn water off first then turn off engine... DO NOT leave the hose running with engine off! EVER!
    or you'll be back on here complaining about your ski not starting and the dealer saying there's water in your motor.

  10. #9
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR2006RXP View Post
    It all depends where you live , change that oil mid winter see how long it takes .
    Quote Originally Posted by Tbranella View Post
    curious as to why you've never flushed you ski?

    but anyway..... don't run it on the hose for more than 30 seconds...
    follow the flushing procedure, start engine, turn on water, turn water off first then turn off engine... DO NOT leave the hose running with engine off! EVER!
    or you'll be back on here complaining about your ski not starting and the dealer saying there's water in your motor.
    Yes, cold oil takes longer to pump out than warm oil. However, it is recommended the oil be changed at the end of riding of the season. If one is really worried about suspending dirt particles in the oil, change to oil immediately after that last ride before leaving from where ever you launch/recover your ski. I say that because just how hot does the oil get after running the engine for only 30 seconds. Besides that, there will still be about 1 quart of dirty oil still in the engine after sucking out the old oil. This is why seasoned Dooers change oil frequently even if its cold oil. Just Doo it!

  11. #10
    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    I generally change my oil using the flood method this allows me to add 4 ish quarts of oil at every oil change , but I remove the plugs to Allow the engine to turn free and no cranking load to help recover as much oil as possible .

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