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  1. #1

    GP1300R HydroLock Inquiry

    Hello,

    I am currently rebuilding a GP1300R that was hydro locked.

    My question is what are the causes of the hydrolock itself on these engines?

    Other then entering intake in ski roll over situation can it enter through the cylinder head from the water that cools the engine? I noticed the little fins with the phillips screws are missing on this gp1300r cylinder head.


  2. #2
    It was ran with no filters so I think that is the main cause of the hydro lock engine seize......

    The cylinder head passages have these small phillips screws and passage blockers normally but the one I have doesn't have them on the head nor on any cylinders..... see this photo for reference http://www.jet-tecperformance.com/pr...cylinder-head/.

  3. #3
    yamahasrule's Avatar
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    Those are just the zinc anodes to protect against corrosion. They have nothing to do with it hydro locking. Chances are it was water sucked in through the intake, maybe a badly blown head gasket. I've see where you shut it down, water leaks into 1 cylinder over a few minutes from the leaking head gasket/cracked head... Go to start it back up and 2 cylinders fire which crushes the one that is half full of water.

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  5. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    If I had to guess, I would think that the most frequent cause of hydrolocking is improper flushing. Leave the hose running after shutting off the engine and the water will back up from the exhaust system into the cylinders.

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  7. #5
    kmaher's Avatar
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    GP, did you buy another GP1300r?!?!?

    And now I'm even more curious, could you not help yourself and bought another non-running one?

  8. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by kmaher View Post
    GP, did you buy another GP1300r?!?!?

    And now I'm even more curious, could you not help yourself and bought another non-running one?

    LMAO, yeah i'm trying to take over all the GP1300R in the world..... lol jk

    It's the same one just been slow stepping like a Mofucka......

    The case was saltwater pitted even missing those bits and fins on cylinder head.

    When I went to reassemble engine bits are chipping off from practically all over. Threads stripping etc like this 2 stroke engine is gonna end up like a true crazy glue build "if it holds- it holds" Its as if this whole ski was capsized under saltwater for 6 months to a year.

    I had to JB weld some parts on the case etc but it should hold good now since JB is marine grade and 4000+psi strength capable.

    Gotta order some other tid bits here and there but its coming together little by little. I wanted to bench leak down test while the engine is out of the ski. But I'm starting to get anxious and the season is coming up lol the problem is that every time I rush something it ends up working against me somehow.... so as much as I'd love to just "SEND IT" I am going to reserve that for when its built right. There is a lot of that sort of meat head propaganda out there these days lol "SEND IT" and then car or ski ends up in machine shop for rebuilt etc.

  9. #7
    kmaher's Avatar
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    So the plan is to get it water-worthy this year? Or, something at least resembling water-worthy?

    Just keep envisioning that self satisfaction when you hear it fire up the first time (and pray it doesn't end in a literal fire).

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  11. #8
    Pretty much man... I can't really predict the future.... but would be a nice achievement.

  12. #9
    I assembled engine but I need to recheck the piston ring gap.....since I have yet to run the engine and since gaskets on cylinder head and cylinders are metal can I unbolt and retorque without any compression leaks or issues going forward?

  13. #10

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    is super easy to hydrolock an engine ...just turn on the water and then turn on the jetski ..really easy to hyfro lock ..first thing u do take out the sparkplugs and spin the motor .wd40 few times crank that bihhhhh upp

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