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  1. #1
    Jshyp2232's Avatar
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    At what rpm's should you upgrade flywheel bolts?

    I have 2012 seadoo gtr 215 with riva stage 1 along with the a fizzle cooler and im waitng till monday to buy the 127 wheel. I see alot of people say upgrade before you reach the 9000 rpm range. Should i purchase the upgraded bolts or can it wait. Also any other upgradeing ideas are also welcome. I've got the summer time blues. There's about 22inches of ice and a foot of snow on the lake that I usually ride on anything helps pass the time.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jshyp2232 View Post
    I have 2012 seadoo gtr 215 with riva stage 1 along with the a fizzle cooler and im waitng till monday to buy the 127 wheel. I see alot of people say upgrade before you reach the 9000 rpm range. Should i purchase the upgraded bolts or can it wait. Also any other upgradeing ideas are also welcome. I've got the summer time blues. There's about 22inches of ice and a foot of snow on the lake that I usually ride on anything helps pass the time.
    Stock flywheel bolts should be replaced even for a stock set up.. Retainers and valves springs are issues at greater RPM.

  3. #3
    Cosmicbrut's Avatar
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    Mine sheered off turning just under 8400 rpm on my 2014 tx

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    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jshyp2232 View Post
    I have 2012 seadoo gtr 215 with riva stage 1 along with the a fizzle cooler and im waitng till monday to buy the 127 wheel. I see alot of people say upgrade before you reach the 9000 rpm range. Should i purchase the upgraded bolts or can it wait. Also any other upgradeing ideas are also welcome. I've got the summer time blues. There's about 22inches of ice and a foot of snow on the lake that I usually ride on anything helps pass the time.
    On that 2012 more than likely you have the old 10 ish bolts and you should consider springs and retainer on any rpm over 8500, yeah many will roll the dice and play Russian fortune wheel with rpm.

  5. #5
    Jshyp2232's Avatar
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    Okay thanks I just watched the 3ft deep video and seems pretty easy. The only thing is I don't have a valve compression tool is there someplace I can rent one or does any one have one they can sell me or rent?

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    At what rpm's should you upgrade flywheel bolts?

    typically, it's done with the at engine at zero rpm. Otherwise, very very messy

    Given the nature of the damage they can cause, I suggest replacing them every time you have the opportunity ( don't go out of your way, but don't ignore it if you have the pto cover off.

    $40 is a really cheap price to pay for peace of mind, isn't it?

    even an unmodded engine can place huge stress on the bolts if you go airborne at full throttle ( you'll kiss the redline or perhaps a little more due to momentum), and don't let off as you should then hook up at full throttle

    damm setup really needed 8 bolts as it turns out.

  7. #7
    Jshyp2232's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    At what rpm's should you upgrade flywheel bolts?

    typically, it's done with the at engine at zero rpm. Otherwise, very very messy

    Given the nature of the damage they can cause, I suggest replacing them every time you have the opportunity ( don't go out of your way, but don't ignore it if you have the pto cover off.

    $40 is a really cheap price to pay for peace of mind, isn't it?

    even an unmodded engine can place huge stress on the bolts if you go airborne at full throttle ( you'll kiss the redline or perhaps a little more due to momentum), and don't let off as you should then hook up at full throttle

    damm setup really needed 8 bolts as it turns out.
    It's is a peace mind. I watched another 3ft deep video on how to do it and I'll have to take it to my buddies at a local Brp dealership and get a quote. I don't have an engine hoist or a drive shaft alignment tool.

  8. #8
    I did mine without a hoist or alignment tool. Just don't mess with the alignment. You will need to take the left side motor mount bracket off but leave the mount on the ski.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 01xp View Post
    I did mine without a hoist or alignment tool. Just don't mess with the alignment. You will need to take the left side motor mount bracket off but leave the mount on the ski.
    Last time I pulled an engine in which I installed it in the same exact spot, the alignment was way off from factory... So alignment should be done at every engine pull, at minimum..

  10. #10
    Jshyp2232's Avatar
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    I wouldn't mind doing this myself but the alignment tool seem pretty critical. Where could a person find one?

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