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  1. #1

    Hello/GP1300R gremlins

    Hello gents. Greetings from Islamorda FL. I didnt see a greeting area, so I decided to post here along with a short synopsis of what I have bought/inherited.

    So long story longer. I bought a used ski knowing I wanted a decent project. Ski needs paint for sure and some mechanical issues fixed. The guy or kid I bought it from is pretty much non existent anymore and doesnít know what all has been done to the ski.
    What i know:
    -Oil injection delete
    -D plate installed correctly to the tab
    -Compression is 135, 135, 110 (new gauge from autozone, open throttle, cold motor) Iím guessing something has been done to the motor to be upwards over 120? Shaved head maybe? And yes it more than 10% across the board
    -The older RIVA EFI controller (Lights on controller not coming on)
    - Riva blue silicone tube exhaust
    -no resistor/chip in the plug for cat
    -Reverse added
    -jet trim removed(why?)
    -It had BR8ES (I put BR8ES-11 in) could be a mistake after I found out about The mods
    -New has 87 octane yamalube 2cyl mixe 40:1


    My issues are:
    -Ski can idle fine but part throttle it stumbles and smokes bad(smells good to me, GF Hates it)
    -Ski runs 50ish on what you guys call the dream o meter (phone gps was 55)
    -Ski runs great at WOT, but after it warms up it will fluctuate and I canít hold WOT. Could be running rich or detonating... not sure.
    -Also the WOT issue the fuel cuts off (abruptly) and throws you way off balance if you are standing
    -After you star ski the alarm goes off(owner said press the button to silence it, he said itís no biggie)
    -engine light on


    Been doing my research and figured I would get the 2k ohm resistor installed. Hopefully this ****s engine light off and alarm. I know I read somewhere it was causing spark issues and Riva said it can cause the CDI to fluctuate. Maybe this is my WOT problem? Iím leaning more towards the EFI controller being bad. Any help would be appreciated. Could also give vessel numbers just in case someone here did the mods on ski.


  2. #2
    yamahasrule's Avatar
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    OK... first off what year is your GP1300? 2004 and earlier are PV skis with a smaller pump, so it's good to know whcih one you have. Sounds like you have a 2005 and up Non PV ski.

    If the ski is stumbleing and struggling in the midrange is because it's lean. If the Riva controller is not lighting up when you start the ski, stop running it. A modified motor running compression like your's needs the fuel controller. There is a black wire off the harness going to that controller, follow it until you find the end. It should be grounded to the engine block. If it isn't, or is corroded, clean it up, crimp a new loop connector on the end of it and bolt it to the ground mount off the front of the front cylinder.

    Chances are you are due for cleaning the fuel injectors which will also cause the symptoms of fluctuation at WOT and will also kill your engine. (may be the cause of low compression on one cylinder) Its not difficult or expensive to clean them or have them cleaned professionally. Worth doing first.

    Leave the -11 spark plugs in it, they are the correct plug, check the gap to ensure it is within spec.

    That back cylinder likely has damage already running only 110psi compared to 135psi on the other two. Could be just some lean scoring , broken ring land, leaking head gasket or worse. At a minimum put a bore scope in to inspect, but its better to pull the head and look at the head gasket and inspect more closely. Fuel is CRITICAL to these skis, any leaning out while you run it WOT will spell disaster.

  3. +1 by:


  4. #3
    Sorry. Ski is a 2007. I pulled the efi controller and put the stock connections together, Ski barely idled.... so maybe it’s working but the leds are toast? I got the ski to give me code 22, but it only pulled up once. Took a resistor out of a phone that’s rated at 5600ohms but that did not help the alarm. I read it could be 2.2 or higher. The controller ground wire. Is connected but was twisted together in the middle, I will try and clean that up. Have there been reported issues with the fuel pump heating up and losing pressure. I had an aero motive fuel pump in a mustang that would get hot and leave me sitting for a couple minutes before it cooled.

  5. #4
    yamahasrule's Avatar
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    If the controller isn't lighting, it is not working. The lights will light when first starting and progressively light through the rev range. Clean your fuel injectors and get the fuel controller working. If you can't you will need to replace it to keep the modifications done to the engine.

  6. #5
    Red light on controller comes on only at startup. None of the others lights come on with no throttle or a small increase in throttle. Looks like there’s a bit of rust coming from green led. Being that this is probably Rivas early model I’m just gonna replace it and see if Riva can do the injectors. Will update once that is done. Thanks!

  7. #6
    Easy fix would be if the battery was no good.

  8. #7
    Well, the Riva controller is definitely working. The first 2 LED’s are shot but the adjustments I make affect the ski. Red led comes on as it should. Been tuning it and it rode better today, then I decided to run it for an hour and was able to run WOT for extended periods without fail. I will finish the tank of yamalube and 87, and run the amsoil interceptor I purchased with 89. Been reading the threads on octane and compression and though I’m still unclear if this thing has a shaved head and a ?* key way. The higher 135 compression has to come from somewhere... granted I just learned a non PV 1300 runs from 130-135. But with the hrs on the ski and the one cylinder with more than 10% difference, this motor can’t be a rebuilt low hour motor unless number 3 cylinder was just unlucky. Now to get the damn alarms off. Plugs gapped at .44 and will index them when I get aback to the keys. BTW, the exhaust is super coated with oil. The previous owner said he used Kawasaki oil.
    Last edited by 4EVRRAW; 02-08-2019 at 01:42 AM.

  9. #8
    kmaher's Avatar
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    With a milled head, you may want to run higher octane. If you're at 135psi on your first two cylinders, you'll probably be safe with 87 octane, but I figure why risk it? Cheap insurance.

    Did you try adding a little 2-stroke oil to cylinder 3 and running your compression test again? Sounds to me like you may have a ring issue. Best to take care of it now before it could spin and cause some major headaches.

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by kmaher View Post
    With a milled head, you may want to run higher octane. If you're at 135psi on your first two cylinders, you'll probably be safe with 87 octane, but I figure why risk it? Cheap insurance.

    Did you try adding a little 2-stroke oil to cylinder 3 and running your compression test again? Sounds to me like you may have a ring issue. Best to take care of it now before it could spin and cause some major headaches.
    I’m still a little confused as to the mods I cant see. I also read on here 135 is normal for a 1300? Will use the premium and see how it runs. Ski is getting paint, wrap work, and custom seat so I’ve been doing body work last couple of days.

  11. #10
    kmaher's Avatar
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    I haven't heard of a year where 135 is normal. It's true they upped compression just slightly in 2005 when they eliminated the PVs, but not significantly. If you're seeing 135psi, that indicates a milled head to me.

    Stock skis see 64ish on GPS, so something isn't quite right with your machine. I know that compression on cylinder 3 is very low, and certainly exceeds the 10% tolerance. I'd suggest not letting that problem progress any further. In fact, I'd have that top end apart well before doing any other work. Did compression raise when you added some 2-stroke oil to the cylinder before testing?

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