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  1. #1
    volltrex's Avatar
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    Loctite or grease on bolts?

    Hi All,

    I am replacing the liner & impeller on my SVHO........just wondered what people are using on the pump, intake & ride plate bolts?
    I usually go by the book, but wondered if grease would be a better option then loctite (572 & 242). The ski is only used in saltwater......all the bolts came out OK, but were very 'dry'.
    Ski is 2017 130hrs


  2. #2

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    You will get varying opinions but I don't always use Loctite where it is specified. The reason is that sometimes the members that are being fastened aren't firmly held in place. I'm thinking of the brackets Yamaha glues in place for the ride plate and intake grate. I use an anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion and make a tighter assembly.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by pro1200 View Post
    You will get varying opinions but I don't always use Loctite where it is specified. The reason is that sometimes the members that are being fastened aren't firmly held in place. I'm thinking of the brackets Yamaha glues in place for the ride plate and intake grate. I use an anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion and make a tighter assembly.
    I agree, I usually use anti seize for the underside of the hull (ride plate / Intake / pump) only because these inserts are being exposed to the elements the most (especially in salt) and a busted bolt in a hull insert is the biggest nightmare you could ask for.

  4. #4
    I do a periodic check every couple months on torque though, just to make sure everything is still tight and not vibrating loose.

  5. #5
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    I tried using grease on my old SHO because I swapped ride plates often & was getting tired of running a tap through the threads every time to clean out the old loctite. I used heavy duty marine grease, & a couple months of saltwater use later the bolts were really hard to get out & one of them snapped. Antiseize might not wash out as easily as the grease did, but after that experience I just stuck with what worked, loctite.

  6. #6
    Davrac's Avatar
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    Loctite as well as being a threadlocking agent is a lubricious. On a well machined thread there is at most a 20% metal to metal contact area. What that means is there is a cavity left. Where there is a cavity there is a presence of air. This the best threadlocker of all, Rust has a perfect environment to flourish. Loctite will fill this cavity and prevent rust as well as acting as a lubricant when doing and undoing bolts


  7. #7
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    I think Loctite (when prescribed by the service manual) make sense from a dealer/manufacture standard. Most owners are not wrench-turners, thus religiously rechecking fastener torque-specs is just not in their vocab. Therefore fasteners need not move. The pump components, vital high-stress, simply cannot afford a failure, especially when a shop warrantees their repairs.

    That said, I am the type that turns bolts often, inspects often, etc... so for the pump, ride plate, intake grate bolts - copper-based anti-seize has been a blessing, not easily washed-out before I'm back up in there - usually annually.

    For the engine components, exhaust manifold, etc... I do not deviate - it's the prescribed Loctite - no question.

  8. #8
    volltrex's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies.......think I will go with loctite.......apart from the speedo sensor screws, where I will probably use alu based antisieze. The 4 cross head bolts had the red factory loctite on & were really tight...had to drill one out..........the impeller came off the shaft easier then getting those out

  9. #9

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    I use the blue “print stick” loctite

    really good stuff and lasts well...248 I think is the number.

    https://www.halfords.com/motoring/pa...e-threadlocker

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