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  1. #51
    mdilabs's Avatar
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    Cool

    I attach photo of my seal area at about 20 hrs... I am keeping a watch on it. So glad I noticed the carbon line and was made aware of the offset by a FB user

    You can see that the carbon seems off axis from the axis of the SS hat ... +WTF .. I loosened the back band clamp and rotated the boot a bit, thinking that maybe it just was offset,and not square on the plastic mount toward the read. Guess what ?? The carbon ring came into position.

    Will continue to watch things. and also watch that crud that is at outside edge of ring ... I ride salt water and am now reminded that SS, although resistant WILL corrode in salt water ... I will remove access cover an wash inside hull every time from now on ... Boat was dry after the 20 hrs or riding so that is an improvement over other pwcs I have owned.

    Other info -- flush only 30 seconds .. no jumping or cavitation acts ...

    BTW - ceramic seals along the lines as these in the PWC ( but imo higher performance) are used in some of our industrial pumps that handle dirty water and having shafts that penetrate bulkheads. ( of course the pumps do not run at 7,000 RPM!) There are actually 2 ceramic rings that press against each other. They are micron lapped and are smooth on smooth, and pressed/kept in mating contact by a metallic bellows. Extremely hard material AND extremely brittle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #52

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    As has been mentioned before in various posts about carbon seal issues, a good way to assess the alignment is to look for movement, or "wobble" when the engine is started and idled. The problem with the way the carbon seal concept as used in a Sea-Doo is that, due to assembly error, the centerlines of the crankshaft and impeller mounting shaft are not coincident and parallel. It sounds like your ski has only 20 hours on it which is not enough time to wear out the ring.

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  4. #53
    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdilabs View Post
    I attach photo of my seal area at about 20 hrs... I am keeping a watch on it. So glad I noticed the carbon line and was made aware of the offset by a FB user

    You can see that the carbon seems off axis from the axis of the SS hat ... +WTF .. I loosened the back band clamp and rotated the boot a bit, thinking that maybe it just was offset,and not square on the plastic mount toward the read. Guess what ?? The carbon ring came into position.

    Will continue to watch things. and also watch that crud that is at outside edge of ring ... I ride salt water and am now reminded that SS, although resistant WILL corrode in salt water ... I will remove access cover an wash inside hull every time from now on ... Boat was dry after the 20 hrs or riding so that is an improvement over other pwcs I have owned.

    Other info -- flush only 30 seconds .. no jumping or cavitation acts ...

    BTW - ceramic seals along the lines as these in the PWC ( but imo higher performance) are used in some of our industrial pumps that handle dirty water and having shafts that penetrate bulkheads. ( of course the pumps do not run at 7,000 RPM!) There are actually 2 ceramic rings that press against each other. They are micron lapped and are smooth on smooth, and pressed/kept in mating contact by a metallic bellows. Extremely hard material AND extremely brittle.
    At 20 hours and you only have that line I would call this normal , premature carbon failure happens real fast on la new unit 5-9hr and you se carbon dust and no car on ring material remaining , unless yours wobbles then it normal and ok for the line and the hrs it has.Attachment 451751Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #54
    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    The above pictures are from a real carbon seal issue there is black dust everywhere and ir the C Clío groove in the drive shaft is damaged and the thing wobbles .

  6. #55
    DR2006RXP's Avatar
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    If you notice the first picture I got a custom parts fabricated to really alight the pump to the bellow holder and then the alignment is perfect to the Engine , no room for error here, it works perfect with the brp tool used for alignment but in every case I’ve used the custom center tool the motor to pump alignment is always way off.

  7. #56
    mdilabs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR2006RXP View Post
    If you notice the first picture I got a custom parts fabricated to really alight the pump to the bellow holder and then the alignment is perfect to the Engine , no room for error here, it works perfect with the brp tool used for alignment but in every case I’ve used the custom center tool the motor to pump alignment is always way off.
    not quite sure on the custom part .. I cant see anything in the first photo other than the normal components. Can you post a photo of this special tool you are talking about.
    Thanks

  8. #57
    Live Fast wave15stx's Avatar
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    A lot of first production 2019 rxtx300s the plastic driveshaft housings aren’t sitting in the hull square causing the carbon ring to sit way off on the top hat. With time the carbon ring will wear out and water spray will occur.


  9. #58
    mdilabs's Avatar
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    This is the plastic part you are referring to, right?? The part you were saying was not set straight in some builds of the machine.
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  10. #59
    Live Fast wave15stx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdilabs View Post
    This is the plastic part you are referring to, right?? The part you were saying was not set straight in some builds of the machine.
    Yessir

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  12. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by wave15stx View Post
    Yessir

    Sheeeesh ... come on SeaDoo... it is interesting that we have all this discussion about this one item and one would think that seadoo would monitor these forums and take note and rethink/design this common situation. They make a big deal in the service manual about engine alignment and even make tools for supporting the driveshaft and there are engine alignment tools/fixtures, but they never mention this plastic bellows support. I wonder if they even have a factor jig that is used to align it before it is being epoxied it and if this alignment of parallel and coincidence with the axis of the driveline is checked before sending the units out the door.

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