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  1. #1
    Lovey's Avatar
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    Which stator/cdi update kit can I use on 95 polaris 750slt. Cant find one for the 750

    Hello, I am looking for a stator/cdi update kit for my 1995 750 slt and they dont seem to be available for my 95. Is there any other year/model that would work? I've been thru one used and one aftermarket stator, and neither lasted more than a season. I would like to install the best possible stator and cdi possible and be forever done with this project. I used all the great info. on this site and read and took notes for a week. I tore my ski into 100 pieces and replaced ,upgraded, changed and fixed everything you guy's suggested. I ended up with a flawless, jump up out of the hole , throw me off the back running machine. But the stator thing is irritating. The aftermarket stator failing was no surprise and the used one was probably on its last leg. I need a better more permanent fix. Thank you everyone for all the great information. I cant tell you how much time and money it probably saved me.
    Last edited by Lovey; 01-28-2019 at 10:59 PM.


  2. #2
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    There is no update kit for the blue Fuji engines. The update kits only apply to the 1996 and newer red engines

  3. #3
    Lovey's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback. Do you think there could be an issue with my flywheel magnets, in turn wiping out my stators? The magnets look extremely discolored.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    My (limited) understanding of the Polaris blue Fuji engines is that there were at least two generations/versions of stator.

    The very early 650 engines (1992, 1993, ????) used an ‘analog’ stator. Later years and the bigger 750/780 engines use a ‘digital’ stator.

    My understanding is that using the older stator with the newer CDI can result in an engine that runs for a while but eventually the old style stator fails.

    Perhaps the used OEM stator you installed was originally from an early 650 engine?

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  6. #5
    Lovey's Avatar
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    That's quite possible, I purchased it on ebay. The next one I'm going to put in is out of a friend's junk 750 slt. Hope it lasts, I'm getting way to good at putting these in and I don't like that ..I don't like that at all...Thank's for the input. I hope all you guys understand how absolutely priceless and appreciated all the information you put on the site is to those of us seeking the knowledge. Regards

  7. #6
    casey67's Avatar
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    The magnets do not make contact, when they do its way more then discoloration. The magnets are mostly for the charging system,not spark.

    The main reason people don't want old stuff is because they need work,more work or work more often. Being good at something could work in your favor.

  8. #7
    Lovey's Avatar
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    That makes sense to me. Basically, if the magnets were not there, I would have no charging system, but the pickup/pulser coil would still send the spark signal.
    Last edited by Lovey; 02-12-2019 at 04:07 PM.

  9. #8
    Lovey's Avatar
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    I thought I would come back to update and finish this thread. Using the advice from this sites guru's, I did not pursue finding any type of upgrade to my stator. I will not EVER buy or install another aftermarket stator, and will forever be on the lookout for an OEM new old stock stator on ebay. I did however find, buy and installed a new OEM NOS cdi. I also found and installed an OEM NOS flywheel. I installed a used, known to be good oem stator. You just cant beat factory parts!! I have the ski back togather and it purrr's like a kitten. It charges great, the miss is gone and it throttles up smoothly now. I think the pulser coil on the stator was the culprit, I think it rubbed the flywheel magnets or got extremely hot and scorched the magnets. Original problem was that the ski would start and idle fine but would not throttle up , it would just bogg down like it was running out of gas. The stator swap was completed without pulling the engine and was fairly easy considering I had all of this apart a year ago and replaced the stator screws with allen head bolts at that time. Fuel tank has to be removed and some work preformed from the front storage area with extensions on my tools. A 1/2" drive impact was used on flywheel nut, a harmonic balance puller on the fly wheel and the rest was easy. You will pretty much have to stand on your head to line up the timing mark on the stator to the case half line. Be sure to use proper locktite on bolts with red and tacky on cover surfaces and torque everything properly. Having now done this project with the engine out and the engine in the hull, My personal experience tells me to NOT change your stator in the hull if you have never had all of these components apart at one time or another. Everything has to come apart easily because there is not enough room to fight any of these parts. However, on a good note, the bonus to pulling the engine is that you will find fifty things wrong with your ski that is broke, close to broke or just plain old needs upgraded. If you pull your engine, Be aware that you will need a engine alignment tool to reinstall the engine correctly. Best Regards, Lovey
    Last edited by Lovey; 02-12-2019 at 11:44 PM.

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