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  1. #11
    madtom's Avatar
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    Some progress this weekend.

    I was able to finish install of the larger 04 and later 16.5 gallon tank in place of the original 14.5 gallon

    larger tank installed

    Old tank


    removed the corroded Fuel pressure regulator from inside the fuel pump assembly

    didn't feel safe just getting a ebay fpr so last week I went to summit and ordered this 30-70psi one built by tanks inc

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-afpr1 was only $80

    Installed the adjustable pressure regulator on the right side of the hull and hooked the 7.5mm line out from the pump and the 6mm return line to the tank and FPR. Japanese love their metric lines but i refuse to pay $50 for 2 feet of line..... cost me like a 1/3 or less from a import car shop.

    the FPR is far enough forward that it has clearance from engine and angled just enough so i can get allen wrench into the adjustment screw. I will size the fuel rail lines once i get the engine installed.

    using the diagrams in the back of the service manual to make sure i route all of the lines and wires correctly.




    Cleaned the hull again and then finished the wiring harness. apparently the PO had a small hull fire and several of the connectors and wires were melted together..... not a good combination with gasoline and an enclosed area.



    was going to use the hydraulic jack method to remove the second muffler but my 6 ton is too tall by a half inch.... any recommendations for a jack that will fit?

    Hopefully the OEM hull bearing will come in this week so i can start putting the engine back in.
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  2. #12
    madtom's Avatar
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    Update. So today the bearings came in.... but while i was waiting i have repainted the intake with VHT anodized base and color engine paint. Painted the exhaust manifolds with VHT epoxy paint after stripping, cleaning and preheating to 200 to assist with paint process ( pictures to follow).


    I repainted the valve cover with Brownell's Alum-hyde II (a tough epoxy used with firearms) with a heat cure..... I stripped old paint off with bead blasting and then painted a base coat and then used scraper to remove paint from the Kawasaki lettering then put clear coat Alum-hyde II.... on it then oven cured for 3.5 hours at 195 degrees. I think it came out good.... if i screwed it up i would have to bead blast it again as this stuff is pretty much resistant to all chemicals.


    Has anyone used only gasket maker to redo gasket under the throttle body and the bottom of the intake plenum? I would think some of the newer high temp gasket maker silicone would be perfect for this application.

    Tomorrow will be drive shaft bearings and pump bearing rebuild.... and start the process of returning the engine to the ski.
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  3. #13
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    On the rebuild really watch the oil rings on the pistons, its really easy to have one pop off while installing the cylinders and get wedged between the piston and the bore. You won't notice until you try and rotate the engine over and its got substantial resistance.

    You will need the oil pressure switch, its bspt like you said. The ecu will alarm without it.

    You can get an aftermarket bearing for the stator but make sure its a sealed and not shielded bearing. Save yourself some cash.

    Double check the cam timing, its easy to do on the bench, a pain in the hull.

    Most of the plastic fittings are pretty good, the exception is the clips that bolt the the hull siphons to the underside of the seat area.

    Use painters tape and dish soap on the exhaust manifold when installing the waterbox and coupler.

    Use threadlocker where called for, this is basically as bad as it gets for stuff coming loose.

    Thats all I can really think of for now.

    Sean

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  5. #14
    madtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    On the rebuild really watch the oil rings on the pistons, its really easy to have one pop off while installing the cylinders and get wedged between the piston and the bore. You won't notice until you try and rotate the engine over and its got substantial resistance.

    You will need the oil pressure switch, its bspt like you said. The ecu will alarm without it.

    You can get an aftermarket bearing for the stator but make sure its a sealed and not shielded bearing. Save yourself some cash.

    Double check the cam timing, its easy to do on the bench, a pain in the hull.

    Most of the plastic fittings are pretty good, the exception is the clips that bolt the the hull siphons to the underside of the seat area.

    Use painters tape and dish soap on the exhaust manifold when installing the waterbox and coupler.

    Use threadlocker where called for, this is basically as bad as it gets for stuff coming loose.

    Thats all I can really think of for now.

    Sean
    any benefit of using anti-seize in the 4 into 1 connection to the manifold? i lost 3 bolts removing existing manifold and lost one with the ebay replacement. Just trying to reduce issues down the road.

  6. #15
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Not that I have ever needed, you can use rtv instead of loctite but the trick is basically to heat the manifold and use an impact on those bolts.

    Sean

  7. #16
    madtom's Avatar
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    quick update,

    So this evening i was able to finish torquing the engine to its mounts and start the on the cooling lines. I was able to run all cooling lines on the engine. I left a little extra so when i finally get the muffler in it is not too short. the ones that run to the pump are still loose as i will be installing sediment screens on each line to keep crap out of the engine. Lots of vegetation in the creek I am on and regularly have to clean little green parts out of the screen on my 02 900. I am using the same Jabisco model that was a option in the 2002 model 900stx but am making a bracket out of $10 aluminum vs the factory 248$ stainless bracket lol. the cool stainless wrench is over 200 also.....

    Installed and torqued the exhaust manifold and hooked up the water lines....

    Anyone have any recommended fluid to go in the coolant sensor hole??? I am going to use grease and just leave enough for a little air pocket.

    I am hoping to have more time to get more done this weekend.... I would really like to start it up to confirm the water mixing into the oil is fixed.

    I still have intake, fuel injection, wiring harness, and muffler to install before i can start it up.

  8. #17

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    Did you check to see whether the fuel tank you installed was one of the recalled tanks?

  9. #18
    madtom's Avatar
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    intake and exhaust manifold on

    So was able to get some work in today. lots of discovery learning as this is my first time putting everything into the ski.

    I mounted exhaust manifold, 4 into 1..... discovered that it is much easier to mount onto the manifold while it is out of the ski. I then also discovered how tight the 1st waterbox lineup is to the 4 into 1. Was able to remove 2nd waterbox after using jack to create enough space to get it above the battery tray/ middle bracket. then i discovered that i would need to use dremel to create a slight widening in the middle of the rear access hole so i can get it out..... it is good now.


    Mounted U pipe to 1st waterbox and then used old rubber exhaust lines to loop it to the thru hull exhaust. it would probably be easier just to use a silicone /exhaust rated 180 and just use that.... fewer connections to worry about... reused clamps that were on second waterbox

    Then I tried to install the intake while the electrical board was mounted... manual says take the motor out..... but it can be done. took the electrical board down and then took the throttle body off the intake. This was enough wiggle room to get the intake enough room to slide in.

    i may redo the exhaust manifold to waterbox connection... i think i can get it another 1/8 in if i have manifold off the engine and can rotate it. I just want to make sure that it is the best connection possible.

    so next will be fuel lines and electrical and then zip tie and route according to the charts. After that I need to adjust the FPR and then see if it starts without leaks.

  10. #19
    madtom's Avatar
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    I did. It was an early model not affected by the recall. Part number on the tank was 51004-3739 and it came from an 04.

  11. #20
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    So quick update on where I am at. IT IS ALIVE

    was busy with work and a wedding last couple of weeks so never got to put any time in on the ski. today was the first full day that was nice outside.

    so I ran fuel lines and reconnected the wiring harness.


    Once I ziptied all of the lines out of the way. I added another 5 gallons of gas and put the battery back in.


    she fired up on the first try. decent sized water leak coming from the 4 into 1 /manifold gasket area.

    Adjusted the FPR to 43-45 psi and just let it run. Oil was initially little bit milky and i thought i might still have a water to oil leak. Changed oil and rest of milkiness went away. I can only assume there was condensation in the oil breather tank.



    so my only problem out of all of this is the dash meter..... it beeps even when power switch is turned to off....... I will be disconnecting the battery when i am not using it. I wish i could just disconnect the dang thing

    ran it recirculating into a 10 gallon container with 2 gallons of vinegar to flush out all of the old crap...... there was little white flakes all in the bottom after i ran it for 10 minutes then let it set for 45 minutes.

    Rinsed it out with hose water one more time and tommorrow putting the sediment filters in running the pump and hull lines and then adding more bunks to the dock and taking it for a test drive. Hoping that the dash meter doesn't put it into limp mode........

    was messing with infrared temp sensor with the seat off.
    even when under load the only muffler left only gets to about 100F
    heads running about 135-140
    pisser up front 100-105
    pisser in back from head 100
    exhaust manifold 4 into 1 87 degrees..... all of that cold water coming from stator cover 87
    oil cooler 110
    even after re-sealing 4 into 1 slight seep now..... like a little drip every few minutes.... will eventually have to replace it
    just used 180 rubber exhaust hose to connect muffler to outlet pipe only 105 degrees under load.
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