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  1. #21
    Have you tried starting them to see if they even run first?


  2. #22
    Hooked up the battery and I get no faults on either one. Not going to turn them over until I clean out the fuel and replace filters. Don’t want to suck up any trash into the fuel system. The oil looks absolutely fantastic when I pull the dipstick. They just need a really good cleaning scrub down. Just want to know the best way to tackle it with what type of solvent/cleaner. I used to ride them before they got put into storage and they ran fantastic.

  3. #23
    Blackhawk36's Avatar
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    You can fully depress and hold the throttle full open and crank. It won't pump any fuel. At least you can avoid wasting time and gas if they are locked up. That is the procedure used in winterization and in the case that you flip the ski and get water in it.

  4. #24
    Well if your heart is set on it, pull the motors sand blast and repaint. Easy to clean the hull when itís empty. No cleaner is going to remove the corrosion.

  5. #25
    Blackhawk36's Avatar
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    To clean the hull you can just get a five gallon bucket of warm water and put a cleaner like simple green or clothes washing detergent and dump in the hull. Drive around with the ski on the trailer for 5 or 10 miles then open the drains and rinse out the hull. That will get it 80% of the way there. Tintman is correct on the corrosion. That will need to be scrubbed off with with something like a stiff brush. The finish on the motor under the corrosion is toast and the corrosion will come back quickly especially if you do any saltwater riding at all.

  6. #26
    This is from another Forum....what do you guys think??

    My skis see nothing but salt......best I have found is no paint. I've had bare aluminum cases/bed plates for a couple years now and they are still perfect. All my painted engines eventually corroded due to moisture getting underneath the paint and then bubbles and corrosion.

    Key thing is to rinse with fresh water after riding, then I use teflon silicone spray and it stays perfect.”

  7. #27
    Blackhawk36's Avatar
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    I suppose it can work but it should work if the do the same thing with a painted engine. Once salt water gets under an imperfection in the paint it will be difficult to remove and corrosion builds up til the paint flakes away. It looks like hell. Mine sees about 50% ocean and 50% lakes. The corrosion looks bad but doesn't seem to have any negative effect as long as you rinse it off with salt-away and keep your electrical connections clean.

    I have to ask myself, why do engine makers paint their engines if it isn't needed. Maybe aesthetics?

  8. #28
    Well so far so good. We pulled the nose cones off both and absolutely no water at all. We have one of the engines ready to pull out in the next couple hours. My mechanic buddy said he had never seen fuel injectors so clean!!

    We are going to have to replace both the exhaust and intake valves as we can see rust on them. They were “winterizerd” but after three years sitting...they were bound to show some corrosion. Better safe than sorry.

    That being said, I am seeing a wide variety of valves for sale. I know I don’t want the OEM sodium filled and need to go with aftermarket.

    I am seeing prices high and low from stores on this site and then on amazon and eBay. Where do you guys suggest I start looking? I am not trying to go hard core performance with these machines, I do not mind paying for quality parts but definitely don’t want to shell out lots of cash for racing performance when it’s not needed.

  9. #29
    The oem is fine. You can no longer buy the sodium filled ones they are discontinued.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Tintman20 View Post
    The oem is fine. You can no longer buy the sodium filled ones they are discontinued.
    Will this work then?

    https://jetskiparts.com/products/sea...waAviHEALw_wcB

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