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  1. #11
    I believe the n/a motors still used the crappy sodium filled exhaust valves.


  2. #12
    All the 4TEC models of these years have the same valves. The NA models dont drop the valves as often as the SC models because the NA engines run cooler.

    However, it still happens, and as time marches on you stand a good chance of dropping a valve eventually. If they were my skis I would replace them but it only makes good sense if you can tackle the job yourself. Not very economical to pay someone to do it.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by canuck View Post
    116KW = 155HP the pics are not the best, I don't see a supercharger so I would guess these are the 155HP non supercharged models. Clean them up, change the fluids and spark plugs check the pump for water intrusion then ride them.
    ”check the pump for water intrusion”. Sorry for the question...what are we actually talking about here? Like I said totally out of my element with skis and I really do appreciate all you guys jumping in so quick to help out.

    I have been do research with what type of oil to use...sweet mother just let every other piece of equipment half the guys say this oil the other half says “if you use that oil your ski will explode”. Lol. Without starting a forum fire...what oil would you guys suggest. These machines will be with me until they die so I don’t mind spending money on a premium oil if in the long term it serves me well.

    Thanks Gents!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drakeremoray View Post
    These machines will be with me until they die so I don’t mind spending money on a premium oil if in the long term it serves me well.

    Thanks Gents!

    Not long then........ I can’t think of a good reason not to use OEM spec oil and filters......

    you will need to check the carbon seals on drive shaft before hitting the water...

    once you you have them up and running suggest fitting electric bilge pumps...

  5. #15
    Blackhawk36's Avatar
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    OEM oil if fine. So is Amsoil marine 10w-40. Early on SeaDoo said avoid full synthetic on supercharged skis because it was "too slippery" and would cause excessive supercharger clutch slippage. This has been disproved buy lab studies. I use the Amsoil in mine and have for 7 years. There is no restriction on synthetic in normally aspirated skis like yours. The water intrusion is for your jet pump. You need to remove cone on the end of the pump to see if the water is getting past your pump seals and into the bearings If there is any sign of water intrusion you will need to rebuild the pump. You should have an problem with that based on what you have described to far.
    Quote Originally Posted by Drakeremoray View Post
    ”check the pump for water intrusion”. Sorry for the question...what are we actually talking about here? Like I said totally out of my element with skis and I really do appreciate all you guys jumping in so quick to help out.

    I have been do research with what type of oil to use...sweet mother just let every other piece of equipment half the guys say this oil the other half says “if you use that oil your ski will explode”. Lol. Without starting a forum fire...what oil would you guys suggest. These machines will be with me until they die so I don’t mind spending money on a premium oil if in the long term it serves me well.

    Thanks Gents!

  6. #16
    Blackhawk36's Avatar
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    The carbon seal is on your driveshaft and bellows. It is what allow the driveshaft to spin in the bellows while preventing water intrusion into the hull. It will look like two flat plates. One at the rear of the bellow and one attached to the driveshaft. Put the ski in water and make sure no water is dripping in between the plates into the hull.
    Last edited by Blackhawk36; 01-08-2019 at 12:04 PM.

  7. #17
    canuck's Avatar
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    This video around the 1 minute mark shows the pump cone being removed make sure the bearing cavity shows no signs of water intrusion or the pump bearing will not last long. If the pump bearing catastrophically fails when riding it can ruin an engine BTDT a long way from home, not recommended. Your Seadoos are not supercharged so any good quality engine oil of the correct weight will work and use oem filters.


  8. #18
    Awesome help guys!

    Now onto cleaning these bad boys! After sitting for 3 years they have a lot of corrosion on all components and the interior of the engine bay...well actually everything needs to be cleaned throughout.

    I found some guys use simply green or purple power and others have even suggested oven cleaner for the hull. Want to make sure not to damage other components.

    Not sure what is the best approach to knocking off all the corrosion on bolts and other engine components. I figure I have a lot of wire brushing to do and did not know if the best thing to do is pull the engines or just work around them in the hull?

    What product would be best to spray on them at the start and then when I have it all cleaned up what to spray on them to inhibit further corrosion.

    Pics attached are scary!!

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  9. #19
    I think the best advise anyone can give you is to consider parting them out. Sorry, they are in bad condition and will require a lot of investment to get and keep them in reliable condition.

  10. #20
    I have one buddy who is a diesel tech and wants to get them up and running. We can do all the labor. Parts will be bought as needed. We don’t mind spending some cash getting them going as we do it all the time with ATVs dirt bikes and others.

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