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  1. #1

    Need help! 2001 XL800 Fiberglass question

    Thanks for allowing me to join this awesome page! I frequently come here for help but I am stuck. Long story short I broke the fiberglass wall that the intermediate bearing bolts to when trying to pull out a stuck driveshaft. I donít know what the wall is called, but itís the fiberglass wall that is bolted to the floor of the hull and glued all the way around itís edges. Itís located behind the engine. My question is can this wall be replaced? If it can, what is it called and where can I find one? Thanks in advance


  2. #2
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    It can be repaired, you'll need to post some pics so we can see what your working with damage-wise.
    Fiberglass can always be fixed, either by you if your handy and willing to learn - or by a boat shop

  3. #3
    I just snapped a few photos of the damage after I pulled out the engine. I wasn’t sure if the whole panel was replaceable. Being how old it is, I also wasn’t sure what a repair like that would cost. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Dang... First time I've seen that happen.
    It can be fixed but
    will require a decent bit of work.
    All the areas that are cracked/torn will have to be cut away with about 1/2 inch margin and then glassed over to give structural integrity back (can use a dremel to cut it carefully). Here's the rub, you'll have to get it back to the original alignment first and then glass it. That's why I say cut a margin so it can be repositioned and then glassed.

    The wall that holds the midshaft needs to be back where it was in order for any chance of getting the coupler alignment right. Once the torn glass is cut away it may move back into position on it's own, it looks like the torn glass is holding it out of shape right now.
    You'll need some epoxy resin (not polyester resin) and a bit of chopped mat, West Marine has the resin or go to a boat repair shop and see if they'll sell you some supplies (that would be my fir
    I've done plenty of fiberglass work, its not hard but can be daunting if you haven't done it before. There's definitely a right way and lots of wrong ways to work with composite materials. Most of the job is in the prep and having the right supplies.
    Hit me up if you want details on doing it yourself.

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  6. #5
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Rough idea of trimming it out...Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #6
    Thanks for your quick reply. I’m up in the air with whether I want to attempt this repair myself. It’s hard to see in the pictures but there is a crack along the bottom but it doesn’t look like it’s displaced down there. Any ballpark idea what a fiberglass repair person might charge for a job like that? Also, that whole panel appears to be bolted and glued inside the hull. Is that something that can be purchased and replaced as a whole new piece?

  8. #7
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Crack along the bottom not a big deal, put a layer or two of glass on it when doing the rest.
    No option of replacing it w a new piece, that would be more work than doing the repair anyway.
    Not sure what a shop would charge, I would do it for $100+ materials but I'm just a guy who knows how to do the work, not a shop w hourly rates and all that.
    It's not a difficult repair, you'll spend more time cleaning and prepping the area than anything else. If you can pull a motor you can do this...

  9. #8
    I wish you were in New Jersey. You would have the job. Lol. Maybe I’ll attempt it. Thanks for your help.

  10. #9
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    I'm originally from Edison Couldn't pay me to go back!
    Pm me for step by step if you go for it

  11. #10
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    Only thing I'd like to add to this thread, is that given how pure-white the exposed cracked material appears, the oem wall composite looks to be made from epoxy-based resin/glass and not the more popular polyester-based resin/glass - aka polyesters are typically very yellow-ish in color.
    The significance, is that the repair resin used needs to match the oem resin base, otherwise the repair may fail on bonding issues.

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