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  1. #1

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    Setting Static Timing With No Marks

    I recently bought another pro 785 as a project, and it's quite the project. When a guy from PWCToday tells you he has a project, it's a mess.

    Anyways, here's the situation. There are two timing marks on this pro 785 flywheel. They are each in sets of three, and each set is about an inch or so apart. I don't know which marks should be used for TCD. That's one problem, but the next one is really great.

    Whatever happened, this guy who has this ski last, he thought the crank was screwed up and the timing needed to be adjusted. So, in his infinite wisdom, it seems he turned the entire timing plate so far that he had to drill new holes into the plate, because he was lining everything up wrong.



    As you can see here, I'm dealing with some quite profound retardation. The problem is the guy ground off the timing marks that were supposed to be on the timing plate.

    Is the proper way to figure this out to make one of the hall effect sensor things in the other threads and then set timing from there? Or do any pro guys here want to tell me how this is supposed to go, roughly, before I start testing. I combed through the service manual and it looks like the black thing on the side should be placed on the bottom of the crank case, roughly.

    Thanks for your help, I'll probably start a build thread later. This thing is a total mess and some of the things wrong with this ski have been comical. It is Pro 785 abuse and it makes me sad.
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  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Fortunately you have another flywheel and magneto if you need one.

    Generally you put the MAG piston at true TDC. That is 0*

    The manual then tells you the PRO should be set at 32* at 3000 RPM. Which is .2547 thousandths of an inch BEFORE TDC.

    So, you can install a dial indicator through the MAG spark plug hole and mark the flywheel where you will see your mark through the timing plug hole when the engine is running at 3000 RPM.

    Or you can use a degree wheel with TDC being "0" on the wheel.

    I would think you should be OK installing the magneto centered in the original mounting holes. That should allow you to be able to start the engine and check/adjust the timing to where it should be.

  3. #3

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    I got it. I ended up putting a degree wheel on the end of the stator, marking 12 degrees (assuming that's what it's at idle), then lined up the rest of it.

    I think I'm going to make a build log of this, just because the stuff that's happened is so comical.

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