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  1. #1

    Milky oil and it seems to be coming out of the air box

    Ever since I took the ski in for its 50 hour maintenance i have had issues with my ski. They first didnt tighten an exhaust clamp and then fixed it. Then it overheated and I found milky oil. I took it to a different shop who tool a month to finally look at it and all they did was flush the oil and put a new oil filter on it. And again I have issues with my oil mixing with water after two rides. I didnt trust the first shop and now wondering about the second shop who swapped the oil and said all was well. I have a feeling they did it just to get rid of it cause I said if it doesnt turn over its on them. I took it out after getting it back from the second shop and it was sputtering, so I then replaced the spark plugs and took it out today and that cured that. Got it flushed and checked the oil and it was virtually gone, and the dipstick just had a bit of oil on the tip and it was milky. I took the cap off and it was full on milky. Then I looked for oil and it looks to be coming out of my airbox. There was oil all over the clamp on the large hose on the bottom of the box. There also looks to be oil coming out down the sides of the airbox, like 4.5 quarts fml...Id like to start troubleshooting this myself as my stealerships are full of shit...wondering if anyone has issues with this before on a 2011 ultra 300

    Edit: After reading more I am wondering if this is a valve seal problem or a crank shaft seal issue?? I just found the field service manual and am slowly going through it. I need help though big time.
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    Last edited by Sdsurfer; 12-11-2018 at 12:51 PM. Reason: More info


  2. #2
    Man, I hope you get this resolved quickly and especially if at the same time you “master” the mechanics involved so that you never have to entrust your machine to incompetence, ever again!

    Fortunately, there are a LOT of threads here in dealing with this very issue and, while we’re waiting for some more experienced members to come along, I can’t think of a better thing to do than start digesting as much of threads like these, that you can:

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192807

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86462

    those are just the tip o’ the iceberg - Also (and I also cringe when people tell me to use the ‘Search’ function but), in these GreenHulk forums using some key words to search THE ENTIRE BOARDS really pays off!

    Again, the only thing that exceeds my feeling the pain of the speakership “monkeys with wrenches, on LSD” is my hope you’re back on the water SOON!

  3. +1 by:


  4. #3
    Awesome! Thank you! Yeah I am constantly on Tacoma world and find myself now struggling to use the search haha Im freaking out man! I dont know how oil got in the airbox I mean wtf. Ill read those threads now.

  5. #4
    Also another question, since it looks like I will be cleaning my IC, and with the oil in the airbox I need to remove and clean that, field service manual says I need to pull the engine to get that out?? Is that correct? I cant seem to find a thread on airbox cleaning/removal

  6. #5

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    Did the exhaust clamp fall off and you over heated it real bad? Did the exhaust clamp fall off and you flooded the engine with water?

    If it just got flooded with water it would take the shop quite a few oil changes (probably 3-5 with some run time inbetween) for you to boil off that bit of water thats left in the engine.... now if you overheated it so bad you blew a head gasket thats another story

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdsurfer View Post
    Also another question, since it looks like I will be cleaning my IC, and with the oil in the airbox I need to remove and clean that, field service manual says I need to pull the engine to get that out?? Is that correct? I cant seem to find a thread on airbox cleaning/removal
    Airbox is a real beast to get out with the engine in. If you took off just the exhaust and supercharger its more doable but still no fun

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by MWHC View Post
    Did the exhaust clamp fall off and you over heated it real bad? Did the exhaust clamp fall off and you flooded the engine with water?

    If it just got flooded with water it would take the shop quite a few oil changes (probably 3-5 with some run time inbetween) for you to boil off that bit of water thats left in the engine.... now if you overheated it so bad you blew a head gasket thats another story
    The exhaust clamp came loose and would turn when i throttled. I shut it off immediately and got it out of the water. It never fired off an alarm at all. This was a day after it was serviced.They fixed the clamp and it ran ok the next three times I took it out. It would max out at 55 mph. But then stopped wanting to start after i anchored and surfed. Thats when I started noticing the issue and then it overheated and threw a oil pressure alarm on the way back in, but only when I was at idle. That is when I noticed the watery oil and lack there of. Then I took it to the second shop and they claimed not to see any bad oil, just super black. It threw zero alarms at me yesterday, but the oil was amber and full before I rode it, and gone and milky white after. Only the very tip of the dipstick had oil in it. I raised the rear of the ski and checked multiple times. Still barely any oil. I havent checked if it threw codes. Im at jury duty and just now learning how to do that on the lcd. My question is how did I get water in there and where did the oil go. If it was the head gasket wouldnt there be oil leaking from the head?


    yeah I found a thread on the airbox, looks to be a PITA. I wonder if I will have to clean it. The pink catch tube wasnt full of oil, but there was oil on the clamp on the hose leading to the sc.

  9. #8
    So from what Ive read it could be I just had the oil overfilled, so I will flush and clean the engine just incase there was residual water in there. I am going to clean the intercooler as well. Check the hoses. And pray to god. Since it doesnt want to start after sitting in water for a while I will check the waterbox as someone on here had that be the cause of that symtom and resulted in milky oil. If all that goes as planned check it all by running it easy with the seat off to see what happens.

    from what I read worst case is a piston ring failure, or head gasket (though wouldnt there be oil all over the engine??), a cracked head ( again wouldnt I see oil on the engine?), or a bad crank case seal, or valve seals. So Ive never done a compression test, is this a tool I can rent from vatozone? I will need help with understanding my results if I get that far.

  10. #9
    Hi Sdsurfer

    I have been following your issue with interest and hope you get it sorted soon. I believe a ring failure or valve seals will result in you burning more oil in the combustion chamber so you would be blowing smoke and have oily plugs. Water must be getting to the oil some way and most commonly in cars its a blown head gasket and sometimes a cracked head, you wont see water or oil on sides of engine unless the crack is external (does happen) but most likely you have an internal breach. Clean out as you mentioned and monitor closely, run on hose if needed and check your plugs and oil. If ok then maybe a short run and check again. As you of the other posters mentioned it may take a couple of oil changes to get all the water\moisture out.

    I will watch to see how you go so please post your results as you progress.

    Cheers

    Dave

  11. #10
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    How much water are we talking ?

    If your only worried about the little bit of milky poo under the cap and your oil is clean and looking into the engine from filler cap and no white poo is sitting ontop of cam caps etc then that is normal in different climate conditions as the condensation rises and will collect there.....

    to have oily milky poo in your intercooler is normal considering 95% of people overfill the engine , this causes the engine to PUKE / find it own level by pushing it into induction tract...
    this is a result of the early catch can design( round style )..... the newer 2013 triangle shaped can works MUCH better and is a direct bolt on suggest upgrade for there exact reasons

    Suggested actions:

    Remove and clean the intercooler with gas ( do not remove the end plates , no need )
    becarefull when removing the cooler so that you dont break the throttle body rubber insulator
    engine doesnt need to come out..... its about a 1 hr process on your 1st time
    6 x hose clamps ( 2x cooling hoses, 2 x large intake hoses,1x bypass valve,1 x BOV vent line)
    2 x 12 bolts ( cooler hold down bolts.)
    4 x 10 nuts to remove the rear seat seaction
    1 x temp sensor wire

    Ensure the oil level is correct as per manual

    ride ski again for awhile
    checking the oil periodically etc to see if a problem exists
    update to newer 2013> catch can if not already fitted

    Waz

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