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  1. #1

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    Slt 700 sbt update ign question

    i have a 1997 slt 700... im putting the updated sbt ign system in.. my question is i have a blue or grey, cannot really tell... female spade terminal that goes directly into the cdi box... i need to know where it goes? thanks tony
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Tha would be the ‘RPM limiter’ Gray wire into the CDI.

    Your SL700 factory configuration apparently did not make use of RPM limiter feature during conditions such as engine overheat. So, you can just leave the gray wire not connected.

    OR you can plug it into the Brown wire terminal group. Then when the buzzer sounds to warn you of a hot engine or low oil, the engine power will also be reduced. Circa 3500-4500 RPM limit when triggered, so you can still drive around, just not at full speed.

  3. #3

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    thank you !! very confusing for me.. also one more question... I just checked timing, with the upgrade kit its 9 degrees at 2.5 k appx... the old stator and cdi was 18 degrees...the cdi number is 4010803... I assume this is a high start cdi and 9 is good? I did not change flywheel...thanks tony
    Last edited by tjlj; 12-08-2018 at 11:55 AM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjlj View Post
    ... I just checked timing, with the upgrade kit its 9 degrees at 2.5 k appx...
    the old stator and cdi was 18 degrees...the cdi number is 4010803...

    I assume this is a high start cdi ...
    The actual ignition timing must match the spec for the engine.

    If this is a high start CDI being used with a regular start flywheel, then you will need to adjust.

    According to the service manual the timing for 1997 SLT 700 should be 18 degrees at 3000RPM and at 6250 RPM.
    Plus or minus 2 degrees.

    You will need to adjust the timing ring inside the flywheel. This is done via the two small bolts visible on the front face of the flywheel. No need to remove the flywheel, just the front cover. *

    Just loosen the small bolts a little, then turn the timing ring until it reaches the end of the bolt slots, in the advance direction (direction of engine rotation). That should shift the timing to get it fairly close to correct.

    Some guys have reported that the slot end was just about right, others have reported that they needed to file the flywheel slots longer to get enough timing advance.

    * Be carefully to not lose track of the small spring and plastic nub that sits inside the front cover bushing, where the Bendix front shaft fits. There is also a thin flat washer, which probably will stay stuck to the bushing or the bendix.

    Also, do not crank the engine without putting the flywheel cover back in place. The Bendix needs that front bushing to support the stress as it cranks the flywheel. Cranking with the front cover removed will force the Bendix shaft to twist in the rear bushing, which is not a good thing.

    You don’t need to put every cover bolt back in, maybe just 4 or 5, with the gasket, and make the cover bolts modestly snug. That is enough for you to test start the engine and confirm the timing change.

  5. #5

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    thank you !! I bought a spare cover to cut, so I can adjust easily...

  6. #6

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    yup it was almost at the end of the slots.... took about 4 times to get it right... thanks again.. tony

  7. #7

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    another question, i had taken the red/purple wire going to the cdi box and hooked it to the orange terminal on the circuit board... i thought a bulletin required it to the the mod.. wont start intermittent... no spark.. only have 8 volts on the orange bus bar in the terminal box.. hooked the wire up to the red/purple (b+) all the time starts instantly... the wiring diagram shows it goes to b+ all the time, but I thought the the ign bulletin 001 I think had us cut it and hook it to orange.. new fully charged battery... thanks tony

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjlj View Post
    another question, i had taken the red/purple wire going to the cdi box and hooked it to the orange terminal on the circuit board... i thought a bulletin required it to the the mod.. wont start intermittent... no spark.. only have 8 volts on the orange bus bar in the terminal box..

    hooked the wire up to the red/purple (b+) all the time starts instantly... the wiring diagram shows it goes to b+ all the time, but I thought the the ign bulletin 001 I think had us cut it and hook it to orange.. new fully charged battery... thanks tony
    If the engine starts and restarts consistently, then it is just fine to have the CDI Red/Purple wire left connected to the other Red/Purple wires.

    There is a service bulletin regarding this, but it was specifically about a problem with the engine not restarting immediately after it had been shut off. If your engine does not have the problem, the Orange wire does not need to be involved with the CDI.

    The 8 volts on Orange should be further investigated. It automatically switches power on to the bilge pump when engine is running, and Orange terminals should provide full batttery power when engine is running.

    If your model has electric trim, the Orange wire also powers the trim system.

  9. #9

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    Thank you, from what I read on the wring diagram, its prob the lr 52 module.... I ordered a used module and will retest.. thanks again tony

  10. #10

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    installed the lr 52 module, a used one... started cold... after about 45 min running, will not restart hot.. I did try the bilge button and it seemed to start... shut off and tried multiple times to restart... now I have been chasing this same problem for about a year.... I cut into the orange wire to the bilge pump and jumped it to the battery positive, seems to start very fast... when I take the wire off.. won start... it seems to point to the lr 52 module again... but... it seems to be a fairly simple circuit... hence why its killing me.. the circuit board is spotless.. the back of the board is corrosion free... have you seen anything really strange that would cause this problem? my next move is to put the red purple on the red purple and hope that the new cdi doesn't mess me up with a hot start and throw me off into a different problem.. thanks tony

    new stator
    new cdi
    another lr21
    another lr52
    new coil

    I know this may sound weird.. but sometimes when it wont start cold I get no spark... only when i stop cranking. I assume the field collapses. if I take one plug wire off it will start on one cylinder... have no idea why...
    all grounds voltage drop is good..
    Last edited by tjlj; 02-24-2019 at 03:34 PM.

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