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  1. #1
    AlexFZR's Avatar
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    Spark plugs water

    Hi guys, I have FZR 09, i was trying to change spark plugs, i found water inside, it seemed a little, i wanted to know if it is normal there is. All 4 spark plugs were difficult to unscrew. They wew very hard. The fact remains that i could not change them. Can you give me some adbice on how i can do?
    Thanks


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexFZR View Post
    Hi guys, I have FZR 09, i was trying to change spark plugs, i found water inside, it seemed a little, i wanted to know if it is normal there is. All 4 spark plugs were difficult to unscrew. They wew very hard. The fact remains that i could not change them. Can you give me some adbice on how i can do?
    Thanks
    Hi Alex

    I have had water down the spark plug holes as well, I found it was getting in each time I washed the engine down. The more pressure I used the more water I found so I am very careful these days.
    Years ago when I first got my Ski I was talking with the mechanic at my 10hrs service and I asked him why he was putting a little bit of grease on the threads of the plugs - he said because he will likely be the person who has to get the plugs out of the customers ski at some time in the future. He swore by the grease and used it everywhere that binding might occur and prefered it over anti-seize. I am on my 2nd Ski and have logged hundreds of hours and I change the plugs about every 50 hours or so and never had any trouble getting them out.
    If the plugs are well and truelly stuck then I would put some penetrating oil down on the plugs and let it soak overnight, maybe WD40 or similar. Get yourself a quality socket that fits well over the plug and it should come out with some encouragement. I have had success with a rattle gun (impact driver) on stuck bolts and was surprised how well they came out so that might be an option as well.
    Throw the old plugs out and grease up the new ones after you dry out all the moisture from the holes and up inside the tubes, again WD40 etc.

    WD40 - name stands for Water Displacement test #40 and was used to remove moisture from US missiles. I was told years ago that it was just Fish Oil with a fragrance added but that is a well kept secret.

    Cheers

    Dave
    2011 SHO

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    WD-40 is a water displacement product, but I don't consider it an especially effective penetrant for breaking through corrosion.

    I use PB Blaster or Kroil.

    The spark plug threads extend into the combustion chamber a couple of threads. If the exposed end threads have accumulated combustion crud then they can be difficult to unscrew.

    Penetrant, soak time, work the threads back and forth. Go carefully since this is steel spark plug threads in the aluminum cylinder head threads.

  4. #4
    AlexFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spi200 View Post
    Hi Alex

    I have had water down the spark plug holes as well, I found it was getting in each time I washed the engine down. The more pressure I used the more water I found so I am very careful these days.
    Years ago when I first got my Ski I was talking with the mechanic at my 10hrs service and I asked him why he was putting a little bit of grease on the threads of the plugs - he said because he will likely be the person who has to get the plugs out of the customers ski at some time in the future. He swore by the grease and used it everywhere that binding might occur and prefered it over anti-seize. I am on my 2nd Ski and have logged hundreds of hours and I change the plugs about every 50 hours or so and never had any trouble getting them out.
    If the plugs are well and truelly stuck then I would put some penetrating oil down on the plugs and let it soak overnight, maybe WD40 or similar. Get yourself a quality socket that fits well over the plug and it should come out with some encouragement. I have had success with a rattle gun (impact driver) on stuck bolts and was surprised how well they came out so that might be an option as well.
    Throw the old plugs out and grease up the new ones after you dry out all the moisture from the holes and up inside the tubes, again WD40 etc.

    WD40 - name stands for Water Displacement test #40 and was used to remove moisture from US missiles. I was told years ago that it was just Fish Oil with a fragrance added but that is a well kept secret.

    Cheers

    Dave
    2011 SHO
    Thank you so much for good explenation. I try to dip spark plugs of WD 40 and hope that the spark loosen. I noticed also that I click the botton to unlock or lock of remote control / alarm, don't do BIP. I listen sound of bilge pump, with background of water... This caused for excessive pression of water during rinse?!

  5. #5
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spi200 View Post
    Hi Alex
    ....
    If the plugs are well and truelly stuck then I would put some penetrating oil down on the plugs and let it soak overnight, maybe WD40 or similar. Get yourself a quality socket that fits well over the plug and it should come out with some encouragement. I have had success with a rattle gun (impact driver) on stuck bolts and was surprised how well they came out so that might be an option as well.
    Throw the old plugs out and grease up the new ones after you dry out all the moisture from the holes and up inside the tubes, again WD40 etc.
    Good advice on penetrating oil, and to treat/lube new plugs.
    I go a step further and employ copper-base anti-seize.
    I also remove/rotate my plugs (roughly 3 or 4 times a year) to assess the engine health, compression checks, and rich/lean, etc...

    Not so good advise on impact-tools, and/or "encouragement" (aka added force). Unlike a solid bolt, spark plug threads are hollow, thin. Add in some rust or weakened steel, along with being constantly tempered (hot/cold) makes the plugs highly susceptible to shearing off.

    Warm (not hot) engine - might have better success at attemps.
    I'd liberally use penetrating oil (PO) - although it might not make it past the spark plug's crush washer (seal). Might try spraying some PO in via the FI port whilst cold cranking. Let it sit and try again. If you have a torque wrench, you might want to use it to "police" yourself in the amount of "encouragement" you are applying.

  6. #6

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    I agree run motor to get it warm (5 min on hose) then give it a try with a proper plug socket. Diesel is a great penetrator squirt a bit inlet it sit overnight then warm motor and give it another try.

    once you have changed the plugs (with anti seize/ copper grease) put some grease on the outside of the boots to help stop water ingress

  7. #7
    AlexFZR's Avatar
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    Thank you so much. I 'll try so! I appreciated your answers. Very important for me. I come back here tomorrow. Hope with succesfull

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexFZR View Post
    Thank you so much. I 'll try so! I appreciated your answers. Very important for me. I come back here tomorrow. Hope with succesfull
    Hi Alex

    The guys are correct with regard to the spark plugs being fragile and you dont want to break one off in the engine else you are in trouble. Penetrating oil as the guys suggest and take your time and you will be back on the water sooner rather than later.
    Did not understand your comment about the lock\unlock button but the Ski should beep and on my 2011 I hear the bilge pump operate for about 30 sec. Ski or remote battery maybe flat if not unlocking and not hearing your bilge pump.
    Sounds like you have a Ski that has not been running for some time, if that is the case then there are plenty of posts on this forum to assis you with what to look out for and getting everything back to running order.
    Post your questions here and the lads are only too happy to help.

    About 28C (80F) here today and just did an oil change and sweated my guts out, put the news on and its freezing in the NW USA and probably cool where you are in Italy as well.

    Cheers

    Dave
    Sydney Aus
    2011 FXSHO

  9. #9
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    I know many will disagree with me....and you can check NGK to make sure...but you are not supposed to use any anti seize on a spark plug going in an aluminum head. The anti seize changes the coefficient of friction, allowing you to tighten a plug much tighter than the torque wrench says it is torqued at. Lastly, the semi shiny coating on the threads of an NGK spark plug is anti seize put on at the factory. It is made just for spark plugs.

  10. #10
    fx160's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    I know many will disagree with me....and you can check NGK to make sure...but you are not supposed to use any anti seize on a spark plug going in an aluminum head. The anti seize changes the coefficient of friction, allowing you to tighten a plug much tighter than the torque wrench says it is torqued at. Lastly, the semi shiny coating on the threads of an NGK spark plug is anti seize put on at the factory. It is made just for spark plugs.
    I believe when first fitting new plugs itís no antisize
    But they should be removed at ten hours and anti seize used

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