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  1. #81
    pierceskids's Avatar
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    I just wanna know this^^^ so that I can be confident that replacing the crank will be the only repair needed. If the electrical system is also an issue I may begin to part this thing out.

  2. #82
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierceskids View Post
    I just wanna know this^^^ so that I can be confident that replacing the crank will be the only repair needed. If the electrical system is also an issue I may begin to part this thing out.
    Electrical system is quite simple on these things, especially the engine cranking parts.

    There is just the starter motor itself, which MIGHT be partially shorted, or just fine. Not expensive or hard to find if you need to replace with good used.

    The start solenoid, which if factory original should always be changed. Same part was used on some Seadoo and Yamaha, so new replacements are generally available. Not terribly expensive.

    The Bendix gear inside the flywheel housing. Lots available good used, generally do not give trouble unless rusted.

    And some cables and ground bolts.

    That is it, for the engine cranking system.

  3. #83
    pierceskids's Avatar
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    With the starter motor removed from the housing flywheel housing I get and 11.96V consistently, BUT I still have yet to see spark. Is this just because the engine isn't being turned over?

  4. #84
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierceskids View Post
    With the starter motor removed from the housing flywheel housing I get and 11.96V consistently, BUT I still have yet to see spark. Is this just because the engine isn't being turned over?
    Starter motor spinning without a load is not a definitive test. It does tell you whether the starter motor works at all.

    Starter motor cranking a good condition engine is the important test.

    In your case you have an engine full of rust. And some amount of liquid. Unknown amount of internal drag.

    Spark requires not only a minimum voltage into the CDI ignition module while the engine is cranking, it also requires the engine to be rotating with enough RPM for the magneto stator exciter coil to energize the CDI module.

    In your testing, IIRC, the battery voltage was regularly sagging to well below the 10.6 volt CDI absolute minimum, and the achieved cranking RPM was probably also rather slow.

    It is possible that the CDI module itself, or the magneto stator, is not functional. Testing the CDI would require connecting it to a known good engine and seeing if it starts and runs. WITH a strong battery capable of delivering well over 10.6 volts while cranking.

    There are some electrical tests that can be done on the stator, but 100% validation would again require installing it in a known good engine. Or fixing your engine.

    Sometimes the LR-505 start/stop control module fails (carb engine Virage and Genesis). This can be overridden by holding down the Bilge button while cranking the engine, directly connecting battery voltage feed into the CDI module. Still requires that > 10.6 volts while cranking.

  5. #85
    pierceskids's Avatar
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    For anyone following this forum:

    After tearing down the engine and finding extreme amounts of rust and corrosion I have decided to part this ski out. I have all components except for the motor in fair to good shape. They were all given a de-salt and degrease bath (except the carb and electronics of course).

    Although the previous owner said it was a lake ski there was obvious evidence of salt water use. They did not flush out the coolant system which is most likely the culprit for the deterioration. Shame people treat these things like this.

    PM me with any fair offers if you would like to purchase parts.

  6. #86
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierceskids View Post
    ... tearing down the engine and finding extreme amounts of rust and corrosion ...
    Thanks for posting the conclusion.

    The 'electrical' symptom, primarily excessive sag in battery voltage while cranking, was in fact casued by excessive mechanical drag inside the rusty engine, apparently.

    Useful reminder to all of us that there can be multiple problems happening at the same time, or a problem that may be related to, but different, than initially suspected.

    Always check the mechanical basics when evaluating any watercraft, especially one that is 'new to you'.

    I wish you better luck with your next watercraft purchase.


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