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  1. #71
    pierceskids's Avatar
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    So I pulled the manifold, tested the motor based on your methods in http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=254167

    Passed the tests, checked all cables, all battery cables has resistance of 0.2 to 0.3 ohm readings. Went ahead and cleaned all the leads and the grounding surface of the starter motor ground. You can tell the motor is brand new based on appearance compared to metal surfaces near it (as the previous owner told me).

    New relay will be in on Saturday and at that point I'll do a compression test too.

    BUTTTTT look at the photos. This is the sludge I found when I took off the manifold. I cleaned out all that I could. Looked in the cylinder after pulling the plugs and saw no sludge above the piston rings.

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  2. #72
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Sludge is worrisome. Is the sludge water based or oily?

    If there has been (still is?) water sitting in the bottom of the engine then that would be rust making the sludge brown

    You may want to remove the intake manifold and intake reeds, so you can see into the crank case.

    Alternative, since you have the exhaust manifold off, is to unscrew the drain plugs from the left side of the engine, way down low. If brown liquid or sludge comes out, not a good sign.

    Hopefully, somehow, the sludge is mainly in the exhaust and not created by rusty water inside the engine.

  3. #73
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    Its the consistency of penetrant oil. When I first got it over a month ago I sprayed a ton down all three spark plug holes in case there was anything in there. Wondering if the sludge is what it loosened up. I'll pull the drain plugs tomorrow.

  4. #74
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    Sludge was rust, found out by disconnecting the hose from the crankcase and watching it squirt out after pouring penetrant down the carbs.

    I'm starting to think this is the reason for the voltage drop BUT it's still very easy to turn over by hand so I'm not completely sold.

    So if I tear down the engine, what parts would I need to replace? Can I recover them in a penetrant soak?

  5. #75
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierceskids View Post
    Sludge was rust, found out by disconnecting the hose from the crankcase and watching it squirt out after pouring penetrant down the carbs.

    I'm starting to think this is the reason for the voltage drop BUT it's still very easy to turn over by hand so I'm not completely sold.

    So if I tear down the engine, what parts would I need to replace? Can I recover them in a penetrant soak?
    Basically you would be doing an engine rebuild.

    Once the bearings begin to rust, they just cannot survive at 6000+ RPM for very long. Hours, minutes or seconds. Just not worth the risk, as a crankcase bearing that suddenly seizes at full song can tear up the engine, potentially punching a connecting rod through the side or gouging the bearing seats.

    All the crank bearings will need replacing, which means the crankshaft must be taken apart and rebuilt. On a Polaris crank this requires a 25 ton press and some special jigs, plus experience. There are a number of shops with experience rebuilding Polaris crankshafts. Plus new crank seals. And a set of engine gaskets.

    If the iron sleeves in the cylinders have rusted, they would need boring. And new pistons + rings matching the slightly larger bore size.

    The rest of the engine is aluminum with stainless steel bolt hardware, so typically it can be cleaned up and reused.

    The Bendix gear in the flywheel housing is steel, inspection required to know if it was affected by the water.

    SBT sells complete rebuilt engines, ready to install. You just trade in the old engine core after removing all the external stuff (exhaust, intake, magneto, driveshaft coupler, etc).

    SBT also sells rebuilt crankshafts, including new bearings and seals.

    There are other companies that also sell fully rebuilt Polaris PWC engines, similar to SBT.

  6. #76
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    Thank you for all the information. So any idea as to why just the crankcase would have rusted up in the first place?

  7. #77
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierceskids View Post
    ... why just the crankcase would have rusted up in the first place?
    That is where most of the steel is?

    Other than the crank and bearings, the iron cylinder sleeves are the only other ferrous metal exposed inside the engine.

    Much of the rest of the engine is aluminum.

    I presume somehow water got inside the engine, and it was left sitting like that. Hence, rust.


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