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  1. #1

    155 4-Tec thoughts

    Hello everyone. Tomorrow I am buying a 2017 Scarab 165 G which is essentially a Speedster 150 with a normally aspirated engine. It has 6 hours on it. I am in Michigan and I donít understand why I have to winterize a craft that is closed loop. If water in the exhaust is a concern, why not just start the engine and blip the throttle a couple of times and turn it off?


    I guess I just plan to run the craft, put two gallons of RV antifreeze in a bucket and pump it through with a bilge pump. I used to do my Honda jet ski by gravity with a funnel and a long hose. Can I do this engine the same way?


    I tried looking for a shop manual but donít see one. What does Scarab/Seadoo recommend for these 155 HP engines?


    Alsoóthese are the most bulletproof engines BRP makes, right? I have had a Honda jet ski for many many years with hard hours on it and it has never had a hiccup. Iím hoping this normally aspirated BRP will be reliable.


    Time is not on my side so info on reliability, things to look for when buying and practices as far as running the RV antifreeze through it will be helpful.


  2. #2

    155 4-Tec thoughts

    That thing will be bulletproof. Iíve heard reports of rentals getting 1000+ hours of trouble free pounding. You wonít be able to run it long enough to burn the water out of the exhaust. Your plan will do the trick. Some people blow compressed air through first to get more water out. The gravity thing would maybe work too. Whatever gets the a/f through.

    Plus if you get the plumbing AF that is good for metal pipes it contains a metal conditioner.
    It will act as a anti corrosion for the water box.

  3. #3

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    They are great boats. I think the speedster 150 are lighter by a couple hundred pounds making them faster.
    The AF method your suggesting sounds correct. 1 gallon should be plenty.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Tintman20 View Post
    That thing will be bulletproof. I’ve heard reports of rentals getting 1000+ hours of trouble free pounding. You won’t be able to run it long enough to burn the water out of the exhaust. Your plan will do the trick. Some people blow compressed air through first to get more water out. The gravity thing would maybe work too. Whatever gets the a/f through.

    Plus if you get the plumbing AF that is good for metal pipes it contains a metal conditioner.
    It will act as a anti corrosion for the water box.
    Tintman20, thanks a lot for responding. I appreciate it. WILL IT BE POSSIBLE FOR ME TO RUN THE ANTIFREEZE TOO FAST and DAMAGE THINGS? I cant really control the pump speed.

    Plumbing antifreeze? I was just going to get RV antifreeze. I am in the great lakes, no salt water. Suprised that is even an issue.

    HAS ANYONE TRIED GRAVITY WITH NOT RUNNING IT? Worked for running it through my Honda...

  5. #5
    Tiderider. Thank you for responding. Do you know if gravity works? I was going to use at least 2 gallons.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by qokuh View Post
    Tiderider. Thank you for responding. Do you know if gravity works? I was going to use at least 2 gallons.
    Gravity works because you take 5ft of garden hose and thread one end into flushport, jam other end into AF jug and fire up the ski. Coolant is pulled through and expelled

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by qokuh View Post
    Tintman20, thanks a lot for responding. I appreciate it. WILL IT BE POSSIBLE FOR ME TO RUN THE ANTIFREEZE TOO FAST and DAMAGE THINGS? I cant really control the pump speed.

    Plumbing antifreeze? I was just going to get RV antifreeze. I am in the great lakes, no salt water. Suprised that is even an issue.

    HAS ANYONE TRIED GRAVITY WITH NOT RUNNING IT? Worked for running it through my Honda...
    No you canít pump it too fast.
    Plumbing AF and RV AF is the same thing.
    Yes running your ski in salt is terrible for it. It can be done with a lot of extra care.
    DO NOT run anything through with out the engine running EVER.

    1 start engine
    2 turn on water or AF pump or gravity flow or what ever means your using to flush it.
    3 when flushing complete turn off flow of flushing liquid.
    4 blip throttle 3-4 times
    5 shut off engine.
    Tip, donít run engine more than 2-3 mins out of water or damage to carbon ring will occur.

  8. #8
    Reporting back:

    I poured the first gallon of AF through it with it running with funnel/gravity. It was SLOW to go down, and not like my Honda. After the first gallon i never saw a return and at that point it was running for prob 3 minutes. The exhaust was HOT--did i screw anything up? So then I panicked and called a Seadoo the dealer and they said it has to be done using a pump. So then I went to the hardware store and got one of those drill pumps. I ran the boat and pumped it though--It's really hard to tell what is too fast or too slow. I prob did a gallon over 2 to 3 minutes with the pump. ​I got a return quickly after using the pump where it was coming out of various holes by the drive. Does it take a gallon to see a return? I did a blip of the throttle at the end and it shot some AF out.

    Did i mess anything up?

    Did i mess up the "carbon ring"?

    If you are acutally well informed on this subject, please comment; thanks!

    BTW, its a Scarab 165 G--NA engine.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Tintman20 View Post
    No you can’t pump it too fast.
    Plumbing AF and RV AF is the same thing.
    Yes running your ski in salt is terrible for it. It can be done with a lot of extra care.
    DO NOT run anything through with out the engine running EVER.

    1 start engine
    2 turn on water or AF pump or gravity flow or what ever means your using to flush it.
    3 when flushing complete turn off flow of flushing liquid.
    4 blip throttle 3-4 times
    5 shut off engine.
    Tip, don’t run engine more than 2-3 mins out of water or damage to carbon ring will occur.

    Reporting back:

    I poured the first gallon of AF through it with it running with funnel/gravity. It was SLOW to go down, and not like my Honda. After the first gallon i never saw a return and at that point it was running for prob 3 minutes. The exhaust was HOT--did i screw anything up? So then I panicked and called a Seadoo the dealer and they said it has to be done using a pump. So then I went to the hardware store and got one of those drill pumps. I ran the boat and pumped it though--It's really hard to tell what is too fast or too slow. I prob did a gallon over 2 to 3 minutes with the pump. ​I got a return quickly after using the pump where it was coming out of various holes by the drive. Does it take a gallon to see a return? I did a blip of the throttle at the end and it shot some AF out.

    Did i mess anything up?

    Did i mess up the "carbon ring"?

    If you are acutally well informed on this subject, please comment; thanks!

    BTW, its a Scarab 165 G--NA engine.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by qokuh View Post
    Reporting back:

    I poured the first gallon of AF through it with it running with funnel/gravity. It was SLOW to go down, and not like my Honda. After the first gallon i never saw a return and at that point it was running for prob 3 minutes. The exhaust was HOT--did i screw anything up? So then I panicked and called a Seadoo the dealer and they said it has to be done using a pump. So then I went to the hardware store and got one of those drill pumps. I ran the boat and pumped it though--It's really hard to tell what is too fast or too slow. I prob did a gallon over 2 to 3 minutes with the pump. ​I got a return quickly after using the pump where it was coming out of various holes by the drive. Does it take a gallon to see a return? I did a blip of the throttle at the end and it shot some AF out.

    Did i mess anything up?

    Did i mess up the "carbon ring"?

    If you are acutally well informed on this subject, please comment; thanks!

    BTW, its a Scarab 165 G--NA engine.
    Its possible you cracked the exhaust manifold. You'll know next season when you take it out.

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